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Hydraulic lifter adjustment


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hipirn
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Sep 30, 2010, 8:29 PM

Post #1 of 8 (11579 views)
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Hydraulic lifter adjustment Sign In

67 Chev. Camaro 350 V8 fresh rebuild. Is there a correct/acceptable way to adjust the hydraulic lifters on this engine while NOT running? Seems to me there were some instructions that came with the rebuild kit and new cam and lifters on the how too, but that's been a good while back and I flat don't remember about it?? The engine has run recently and will run, sounds Ok. It's a semi show piece and I would like to button it up with out further mess if possible! hipirn


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator


Sep 30, 2010, 8:46 PM

Post #2 of 8 (11574 views)
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It can be done but it's not a real good idea on an engine that has never run, therefore the lifters are not pumped up fully. It would be real easy to make them too tight. You get a much better adjustment with the engine running. It's just a little messy. They do make a set of clips that can be put on the rockers to prevent the oil from squirting all over.




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hipirn
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Sep 30, 2010, 9:11 PM

Post #3 of 8 (11567 views)
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Hammer: The engine has run recently and I can start it just prior to non running adjustment. I did pre prime the lifters in a pan of oil working the plunger up and down before installing them and adjusted the rockers per instructions in the kit. The engine was absent clatter or missing when I started it so they must have been close to adjustment. I just don't remember the procedure they provided in the kit. I'm sure the best way as you suggested is to adjust them running... Just trying to avoid the mess. And yes I did have a set of them clips back in the day 30/40 years ago but they are long gone! Thanks for the input......... hipirn


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator


Sep 30, 2010, 9:19 PM

Post #4 of 8 (11564 views)
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V8-267, 305 & 350 (CHEVROLET BUILT)

Initial Adjustment

  1. Rotate crankshaft until mark on torsional damper aligns with center or ``O'' mark on timing tab, attached to crankcase front cover, and piston of No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center of compression stroke. This may be determined by placing fingers on the valves for No. 1 cylinder as timing mark on damper nears the ``O'' mark on front cover. If valves do not move, engine is in the No. 1 firing position. If valves move, the engine is in the No. 6 firing position and should be rotated an additional revolution.
  2. With valves in No. 1 firing position, adjust exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8, and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 as described in step 3.
  3. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at pushrod, then turn adjusting nut inward until all lash is removed. When all lash has been removed, turn adjusting nut in additional number of turns specified in Tune Up Specifications Chart.Zero lash can be determined by rotating pushrod while turning and adjusting nut.
  4. Rotate crankshaft one revolution, until pointer ``O'' mark and torsional damper mark are aligned. With engine in this position, adjust exhaust valves 2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8.
  5. Install rocker arm covers, then start engine and check idle speed and ignition timing.

Readjustment

The following procedure, performed with the engine running, should be done only in case readjustment is required.
  1. After engine has been warmed up to operating temperature, remove valve cover.
  2. With engine running at idle speed, back off valve rocker arm nut until rocker arm starts to clatter.
  3. Turn rocker arm nut down slowly until the clatter just stops. This is the zero lash position.
  4. Turn nut down 1/4 additional turn and pause 10 seconds until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional 1/4 turns, pausing 10 seconds each time, until nut has been turned down one turn.





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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



hipirn
Novice

Sep 30, 2010, 9:48 PM

Post #5 of 8 (11558 views)
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Thanks again, 2X, Hammer... That will get me by, hopefully...For some reason I seem to vaguely recall that I had to turn the engine over several times when making the initial lash adjustments which wasn't to hard as it was on a build up stand, and, I had not encountered those kinds of instructions before for lash adjustment? Take care... hipirn


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator


Sep 30, 2010, 9:51 PM

Post #6 of 8 (11555 views)
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As you can see in the instructions, these are designed to get it close for initial start up and redo with the engine running. It's really not very accurate.




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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Sidom
Veteran / Moderator


Oct 1, 2010, 10:34 PM

Post #7 of 8 (11536 views)
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I seem to recall having an old s/b valve cover with a slot cut out of the top right over the rocker nuts. That really helped keeping the mess down...... I haven't had to use that in ages, I don't even remember what happened to it....

Like Desi said, that procedure is a good pre adjustment but you really what to do the final setting with it running.






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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator


Oct 2, 2010, 5:33 PM

Post #8 of 8 (11526 views)
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OMG - pre computer or any good software.

I think - GM/Chev short blocks were bottom out lifters and back off 6 turns. May NOT run. Always did take some oil pressure to get them right. Final adjustment was with engine running.

Egad - that's digging deep into memory!

T
_________________________________________
Long retired now




Hydraulic lifter adjustment


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