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2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement


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10say
User

Jan 8, 2015, 6:27 PM

Post #1 of 20 (1215 views)
  post locked   2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Hello,

I took my car (2000 TOyota Camry) to a mechanic inspection.

After this inspection it turns out that this car need some repairs but nothing impossible:
- Break pads, rotors, sway bars loose... and wheel bearing replacement.

I am not an expert and I cannot figure out how the mechanic determined that the wheel bearing is loose.
The mecanic said that the steering wheel was shaking while driving, but I personally do not feel anything suspicious. Is it micro-vibrations, or a specific thing that only experienced drivers or mechanics can detect?
I jacked up the car to try to pull and push the wheel, but everything seems tight and straight.
Do I miss something?

I am asking that because they asked me $600 for the wheel bearing replacement and pads + rotors. I find this excessive for the job and I intend to do it myself (and bring the bearing hub to a press).

Thanks,


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 9, 2015, 4:59 AM

Post #2 of 20 (1192 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Can't say too much about what was SEEN such as the brakes and sway bar. Bearing doesn't usually have "play" or wobble on this barrel type but rather a growl felt usually first on turns one way being worse than the others as it shifts weight of vehicle.


By the time any show play these are obvious and have been and ready for real trouble IMO and experience. It can be hard to know if it's the tire or the bearing also.


OK - You said you couldn't feel anything and don't know how you checked and admitted not experienced with this which is fine but I do doubt the diagnosis of a wheel bearing and that price so far even if in good faith and mechanic really thinks it's bad and might be.


That's quite a list (have seen worse) for just an inspection. You can check your own parts prices plus add what you find for the shop's markup.


I was surprised that this does seem to use a pressed in wheel bearing and hub set for the front, different prices and parts #s if the 4cyl or the 6 cyl engine and price may reflect quality and higher may be the better on several things. If not pressed in type these are easy to do no press at all required and hence faster.


In short either rotate your tires/wheels to rear and see if any (but you said nothing noticed) changes while driving or have a second opinion done.


Again and sorry but a fast diagnosis of a wheel bearing without a test drive showing nothing obvious to you as mentioned I question how sure the tech really could be - wasn't there and not blaming anyone just think it deserves another's look and test.


Ask for parts back as none have a core value and bearing will show up in your hand easily as bad if you know what you are feeling for. Awful hard to blame one like that unless obvious,


T



10say
User

Jan 9, 2015, 11:12 AM

Post #3 of 20 (1179 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Thanks for your answer.

The fact is I bought this car knowing it had problems (want to fix them myself).

And I know that the dealership installed brand new tires on the car, so I doubt the problem comes from the tire wearing.

So I guess I will follow you advice, I will test drive the car today in a quiet area to see if I can get more clues.
Otherwise, I will as you suggested take it to another mechanic.

Regarding the wheel bearing I don't know what kind it is since I do not have the repair service manual and because of the cold I still haven't worked on the car.
But auto part stores sell the bearing and hub separately, so I guess it is pressed..


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jan 9, 2015, 11:51 AM

Post #4 of 20 (1175 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

OK - Wheel bearing on this is a tad different then I'm used to now long ago done with this stuff. It comes as a hub, bearing, snap ring and nut as a set a little under and a bit over $`100US or so. Most pressed in ones I don't see the hub listed so plead IDK for sure and if pressed need the dang press and if you were doing it take the whole spindle in and have a place do it.


Confused on exactly how this one gets done but not on how to diagnose a bad bearing. This is a barrel type, sealed bearing like most wheels use now and don't do that play and or wobble thing or need service or re-greasing.


The noise is very distinct to me (most any tech) as a growl at first can be slight and near always worse driving along and turning it makes more noise one way than the other but not 100% on that either. New tires kinda rule out them for now.


I just find it a bit strange that a tech found one and knew which one for you and you don't notice anything? No joke, some (just real close friends now) were so early I wasn't sure till it was in my hand and also you can get fooled as to which side as noise of that sort can travel. Perhaps just me but I ask folks to drive and me listen inside car/vehicle to nail down which one. Others will disagree but I will do just one and some others will want to do both no matter what. I just don't find unless some reason that a good one even old has the same life as a bad one. Chances are the originals are better than what you'll get new now!


If you wish to take on these things yourself please tell us what you really have for tools and some idea as to your level of mechanical anything. Brakes now would involve ABS on this so don't just push a piston back thru all the ABS stuff with dirty fluid.


Many you can look at yourself just taking wheel off get an idea. It's much better if you remove caliper and really look at both pads carefully for even wear not only one side but as compared to the other as you might need to do more like calipers and maybe flex hoses and get over your head on some stuff.


Stabilizer whatever part(s) were worn you should be able to see and do without too much trouble and basics for know how.


Sorry for the book. I just question the bearing as already said and sure don't want to make you think it's good when another right at this car says it's not,


T



10say
User

Jan 9, 2015, 1:59 PM

Post #5 of 20 (1169 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

No worry for the book, the more the better!

My tools are pretty basic:
- Whole bunch of sockets from 5mm to 30mm (for the axle nut).
- Torque wrench (20-200 ft/lbs)
- 2 jack pads, etc...

I guess, since I have to replace the rotors (warped) on both sides, I will have to remove the caliper anyway, I will check the bearing assembly at the same time and if the bearing is bad I will remove it as well.

I found this regarding camry wheel bearing removals:

Link deleted ...................... not allowed


I guess I might just take the hub off and take it to a press for them to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
Still less expensive..

Thank you for all your great advice, I really appreciate it


(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jan 9, 2015, 2:34 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 9, 2015, 2:58 PM

Post #6 of 20 (1164 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Not supposed to show links but let it go for the moment.


I'm not convinced you need a wheel bearing on this. If so I'd probably take the unit with bearing complete and just have it pressed in at a shop and truth is I haven't run into this exact type despite being such a popular car!


Brake rotors warped? Are you sure of that or are they just old/rusted or been just pads replaced that you know of too much - once is too much really.


Bracket is needed to come off that holds the caliper to replace a rotor. If corrosion at all between rotor and hub unseen till there the rotor will wobble sometimes badly as well as the whole wheel as it isn't on flush to surface.


Tools? You never can have enough and can need multiples of same sizes. Most important is hoisting/lifting spots, placement of jack stands not the pressed metal and pin type but good ones -- it matters!


Air tools always help if only for lug nuts OFF but not back on even though you see most use air to tighten wheels and only really OK if the socket is special for torque or finished off by hand. Do enough regular vehicles you get a "feel" that's enough to get it right. It's not silly stuff, wheels fall off over plain lug nuts put on wrong!


Back to the warped rotors as you claimed: Why do you say that? Do brakes shake now when applied?


Have you looked at your own brakes just with wheel off yourself yet? Some wheels you can get a good clue just looking thru the wheel some not. Do you know what to look for and where?


Arrr. It all matters. If you really want to get serious about DIY, bearings and brakes I default to finding the right experienced pro perhaps no longer working the trade or who does that will go thru a job of the sort at least once with you and show you in person what you should be looking for so it works properly the first time and is never compromising safe work which these things are all about.


Always have a "plan B" in mind if things aren't behaving especially if corrosion issues are involved. There isn't enough paper to make a book on dealing with that. This car not noted to be one of the most common to be a real pest with rust to me - yet except for dinky underhood stuff.


I do live in a total rust belt so if not used to it forget vehicle repairs on anything more than a couple years old.


For now project is to look for yourself at the brakes and rust situation and know how to properly raise and support car such that you can work on it,


T



10say
User

Jan 9, 2015, 3:30 PM

Post #7 of 20 (1159 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Ok, I will see how it goes for the bearing and keep you posted.

Concerning the rotors, I assume they are warped because the brakes are pulsating when braking.
Besides that the car is quite old and I expect to find some worn stuff and rust inside. So I am prepared to suffer a bit, but since I want to learn more about cars and on how to diagnose problems and fixing them, I hope this will be a good start.

But as you said, I have to take a look first by myself,
I will investigate tomorrow and keep you posted about any progress on this.


Thanks a lot for your time and advice


10say
User

Jan 10, 2015, 2:04 PM

Post #8 of 20 (1140 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

OK, I removed both left and right front wheel to take a look at the rotors thickness (see if I can resurface them), and then put back the wheel and tighten up the studs to the car torque spec to see if there was some play.

So I can confirm that the LF wheel has play compared to the RF which is OK.

However, and I don't know why, but now I cannot restart the car.
The brake pedal is stiff which might be because of the vacuum, it is clicketing but that is all. The lights, power windows etc are working, I but cannot start the engine.

I don't understand why this happens now... maybe a bad battery, that would be a bad coincidence..
I just turned the wheel while the car was jacked up to have a better look of the tire tread, but that is all.


(This post was edited by 10say on Jan 10, 2015, 2:07 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 10, 2015, 2:48 PM

Post #9 of 20 (1137 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Strong opinion on rotors: New not resurfaced as there isn't enough metal when new to take more off and will warp in no time if you resurface them. Almost anything less than 30 years old or more doesn't give extra metal for squat.


OK: Back to this bearing thing for a bit. Sorry to make you work so hard or again but take the dang wheels off fronts. Look for where brake pads are pushed by piston(s) and without harming anything either with a large "C" clamp or just the right touch with a screwdriver push back piston(s) such that brakes don't touch rotor at all and wheel then spins free. FWD you need "N" to spin just one on transmission. Then spin with wheel on with even just a couple lug nuts to spin wheel and listen for the bearing without any brake drag or noise involved now. You are hunting for free-play you'll never find in this type bearing or the freaking thing would feel like you were driving on a flat tire right now if that bad.


This isn't that hard to find if there's a bad bearing THAT bad and still no play any direction. It's not an "inner/outer" type still used on trailers and some assorted things but about gone on motor vehicles by even this age.


___________________________________
Shoot! Now it doesn't want to start - niceMad Unless you left door open or something way too long it isn't involved with checking your wheels and brakes. Some lights working and engine doesn't crank at all - am I correct with that?


If so, know that lights take no juice compared to starter motor which should still react when turning key to start making some noise. If nothing at all and this time leave a dome light on and it stays on while starting attempt it's not triggering the solenoid to the starter. Make sure you are in neutral or park first. Stuff happens like that by mistake.


If any juice at all to trigger starter it would at least give one click or rapid fire ratcheting clicking if normally low battery amps available meaning battery is drained or that too is on the list for more checking. Charge it with a charger and check all battery cable connections, both ends of each and wires at solenoid at starter.


I'll wait for more observations before expounding more on this new snag. Gotta get it to run or the show is over for the rest.


Time to add some tools you should own anyway. Test light, at least a voltmeter or DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter) and no need to spend a fortune unless you want super quality and durability cheap ones do OK. Wally World, similar stores, parts stores, even Harbor Freight junk should do.


Test light = ~$5.00 Analog volt/ohm meter ~$10.00 just seen at Wally World!


Get it to start and we'll get back to brakes and bearings. For right this moment if just a lousy connection and no good tools just tug a bit on battery cables it might start so you can move the thing. Are we having fun yet? Trust me, did more road calls with little or nothing sometimes and got stuff running till real problem found,


T



10say
User

Jan 10, 2015, 4:06 PM

Post #10 of 20 (1130 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

OK so first the start problem is fixed. I just clean the battery, and gave it a boost with jumpers, and it is working fine for now.

Guess I let something turned on while I was working with the wheel.
I will definitely go shopping to get more tools, but you never know what you will need before you are confronted to the problem (I mean, when you don't have a lot of experience).

I guess, as you said previously, I need a Plan B.

-----

Now, regarding the bearing, ok I will try to push back the piston and spin the wheel.

But what I don't understand is, that I tried to check for play by pulling and pushing the wheel on both sides. with all lug nuts and with 3 only.

The right doesn't move a bit. But the left wheel, I can hear a little noise and a little (very little tiny play) as if something was not tightened.

So I will try again by freeing the brake. And keep you posted of the result.

Thank you again


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jan 10, 2015, 4:23 PM

Post #11 of 20 (1127 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Stop expecting to find all kinds of play. This type of bearing rarely shows any when the are bad. What you are looking for is a roughness when it is rotated and that's hard to tell with brakes dragging.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 10, 2015, 5:15 PM

Post #12 of 20 (1125 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Thanks Hammer for that explanation which I thought I covered. 10say: These bearing don't do the wobble + free-play deal, thought I said that already but was vague I guess is that you want to spin the wheel on car and feel for the bearing typical roughness like it has sand in a bearing for this test. Driving with weight would growl or feel like one tire was a knobby type tread and others not if you will.


So - I messed up if you didn't understand I mean spin the wheels.


Wish it was easy to just go get a new hub and spin it in your hand as an example but that doesn't work with new. They are tight when new and don't spin free yet so forget that to compare good one and bad one to LEARN that feel.


If this was a loose bearing and race you can plain see the flaws - none allowed at all. New ones fail too unfortunately even when done exactly right especially Chinese made ones. I don't mean to blame China just that they do sell parts a lot cheaper as folks want cheaper and that's what you get - poor quality on a thing that counts in this case.


Back -- I'm not convinced this has a bad bearing!


Tom



10say
User

Jan 10, 2015, 7:52 PM

Post #13 of 20 (1113 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

OK, sorry for my insistence, I was jsut wondering if what I encountered is normal, apparently I don't have to worry about that.

And I understood as well for the test of roughness by spinning the wheels, I didn't do it since the car was on its wheels again. I will install the new rotors tomorrow. So before removing the wheels I will do that last verification and I will let you know.

Thank you for your patience and advice


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 11, 2015, 3:39 AM

Post #14 of 20 (1104 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Coffee's on and back at it for a bit. Sorry for any confusion on this. Learning takes some time and always better hands on and first time things with an experienced helper right there.


The mention of the brakes was just to retract them such that wheel would spin without those involved.


You said you felt "something" and not sure exactly what that means but generally you would feel NOTHING at all for the bearing check. This being a drive wheel means you are turning the axle (we call a CV jointed 1/2 shaft) along with the wheel which makes checking a wheel bearing harder unless it was obvious.


Refresh: Obvious wheel bearing problems on cars once tires are ruled out begin as a rough feel when driving. Some can begin so slowly that owner/regular driver barely notices sometimes till new tires are installed or wheels and tires rotated then notices a change. If not already said I/we would suggest rotating wheels to find which one has the problem but you said new tires on this car.


Even so if there was a real tire, brake or bearing problem it really can show minor odd wear on a tire quickly by just a couple hundred miles if something off enough.


To do work yourself take your time. Have or get the tools needed and help available if you get stuck at some point no matter what you might be doing on especially a safety something such as this.


A warning on this and other work like this: If you do part of a job or multiple new parts on items that could be related when or if two issues are at hand then it can be harder yet to diagnose as we (people) just think that if something is now new that can't possibly be still involved in the problem. VERY important in any of this is NOT to get angry with the car or yourself all in a fluster as the car doesn't care and working while mad at it doesn't help a thing - trust me on that.


Have the time and alternate transportation for this stuff as you never know if or when something goes wrong or you find more wrong than expected that the car is disabled till more parts and or help is needed.


This site FYI: The format here will put this on page 2 soon. Look for a "vew all" when that happens. The posts in a thread are in order by when the dang networks and person responding actually sends it on. Right now the time stamp on this site is correct and in time order - just know that.
We'll get there. Stop and ask at any trouble spot once you've started. This site is NOT on demand live suggestions so may have to wait for a response such as this one took time,


T



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jan 11, 2015, 7:34 AM

Post #15 of 20 (1099 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Since this is a front wheel drive car it is going to be pretty difficult to hear anything when turning the wheel. One technique that works pretty well is to put one hand on the spring coil while you are turning the wheel. Do it for both sides and compare the feel. You should notice a slight vibration transmitted to the spring in the bad one, assuming it has degraded sufficiently to be able to tell.
The weight of the vehicle brings out a lot of noises that can't be heard with the wheel hung.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



10say
User

Jan 15, 2015, 10:15 PM

Post #16 of 20 (1072 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Sorry for the late reply, it was very cold outside and I couldn't work on it.

So I drove the car everyday since, trying to notice unexpected noises, but everything seems fine. As you said, if it is a bad wheel bearing, it may just be the beginning.

Before I changed the rotors I did the test by spinning the wheel while touching the spring. On the right wheel no problem. However, on the left, I had a little roughness (like if there is sand in it) even though the wheel spin very well.

I will test again this weekend to make sure.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 15, 2015, 11:14 PM

Post #17 of 20 (1068 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

THAT IS VERY TELLING TO ME and yes a bearing could do that and that slightly at first. Hammer's suggestion was spot on. I'll have to remember that when another is that vague to me too on something. Just a couple had to have the old one in hand before absolutely certain. Good luck with it,


T



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jan 16, 2015, 3:15 AM

Post #18 of 20 (1063 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Bearing noises are not always noticeable to the owner because they come on gradually and if you drive the car everyday, you may now notice but a different drive can notice it immediately.

Another thing to try is to swerve side to side at a steady speed and listen for noise change when the weight distribution changes.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



10say
User

Jan 19, 2015, 6:46 PM

Post #19 of 20 (1036 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Yes you are right.

So, I tried to remove the wheel bearing assembly. But I got stuck when I had to remove the castle nut of the lower ball joint. The cotter pin was broken and I tried a lot of things to remove it, but with no success.

The only option left was the heat and since I don't have that with me, I resigned myself, and put everything back on and took it to a mechanic.

So now the problem is solved, at least I learned how this part of the car work, and that I should check before doing anything if the rust won't be a problem.

Thank to you both for all your wise advice and for your time.
I really appreciate it.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 19, 2015, 11:16 PM

Post #20 of 20 (1028 views)
  post locked   Re: 2000 Camry - LF Bearing wheel replacement  

Wise choice when the cotter pin stopped you up and lacked tricks - send it out.


Yes - heat but only just so much and where. Wild force and let it all snap up the cotter pin with air then punch out the pin. If any chance of a view just punch out the pin after cutting it off flush. Any and all per situation.


Heat always works but so does it cause fire, take tensile strength away from metals or more fun melt just what you didn't want to ruin.


Makes you wonder why anyone would want to do this crap doesn't it?


Good luck with the proper fix for this. Thread will be closed out soon as finished with and keep spammers out but not right now by me,


T







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