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Search Auto Parts Search compressor cuts out when vehichle shifted to Drive Sign up here!   Email This Post Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> AC Auto Repair Help Forum pantherfan2 New User Jul 29, 2005, 9:27 AM Post #1 of 5 (2208 views) compressor cuts out when vehichle shifted to Drive Sign In I have a 99 Isuzu Rodeo. When you start the car and turn on the air the vehichle cools with no problem. If you then shift to drive, when the idle adjust, it knocks off the compressor. It will then cycle on and off for approx. 10 minutes before it will finally stay on for the remainder of my drive and cools very well. I have started shifting the car into drive and then turning on the A/C to get around this for now. When this first started, I checked the freon level with a low side gauge and it was fully charged. Any ideas what could cause this type of trouble? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Jul 29, 2005, 12:13 PM Post #2 of 5 (2198 views) Re: compressor cuts out when vehichle shifted to Drive Sign In This is a tough one - c'mon folks - we can fix this ------ attention all members!, Tom carjunky Enthusiast Jul 29, 2005, 5:55 PM Post #3 of 5 (2191 views) Re: compressor cuts out when vehichle shifted to Drive Sign In This is a far out there guess..... It may be some type of electrical short. I know when I drive with the A|C on and go to press down my automatic door locks, a few seconds later they pop back up. Hope this might give you something to go on. poolplyrrich New User Sep 9, 2007, 10:16 PM Post #4 of 5 (1436 views) Re: compressor cuts out when vehichle shifted to Drive Sign In Sounds like got to be a switch or temp sensor inside or outside trans if its electronically controlled, thats causing it to shut down? Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Sep 10, 2007, 6:26 AM Post #5 of 5 (1432 views) Re: compressor cuts out when vehichle shifted to Drive Sign In This could be a rare alternator failure that can't produce enough voltage. The lowered idle when putting in drive and the brakes applied and the lights add some load as does the clutch coil needed to engage. Voltage/amperage output will peak at 1000 to 1500 rpm but engine idles at more like 700 or so and may drop to 600 or so rpm and can't maintain the over 13v needed for some items. Most will work with below 10v but some clutch coils need the 13 or better. Check the voltage output. An alternator has it's regulator internally and a diode trio that converts AC current to DC and will still put out just enough power if one of those fails to not trigger a warning and may be just enough so you don't have problems keeping the battery charged for the next start. Check voltages at the different times. Excessive clutch air gap makes it harder to finally impossible for the clutch to engage and if it's at the limit the minor power reduction available could cause this problem. The fix would be and alternator change or if one want's to dig into it change out the diode trio and the voltage regulator inside most alternators, T   Email This Post   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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