|
| | |
|
|
kyfernung
New User
Jun 5, 2007, 11:10 AM
Post #1 of 4
(2579 views)
|
|
ac blowing warm air
|
Sign In
|
|
Hello,
I have 2 questions.
Question 1
I have a 97 Chrysler Town and Country- At times (not alot), when I am coming up to a stop sign or slowing down, the car can have a tendency to stall. It basically will sit there and act like it will not go when I step on the gas. The RPM will not raise so I know it will not go immediately. If I turn the ignition off for a few seconds, it always starts up and will be OK . For how long until it happens again is anyones guess, sometimes for days or sometimes a few stops down the road. When it happens, the service engine light comes on. Actually, the engine light has been on for a few years because nobody could find out what was wrong. Why the engine light originally came on I am not sure because nothing was noticed the first time it came on.
Anyway, a guy I know has a code thing to check it. When he checked it after it has been on for some time. The code said something about "emissions". He reset it and wanted to check it again after it stalled again in order to get a up to date check. After the engine service was off, it came on again after it stalled. He checked it and it came back with code 171 only "1st bank running lean".
Any idea what this could be or why it is doing this. I have noticed lately that it appears the exhaust is sounds a little different, like there may be a leak somewhere. Nothing big, just noticable. Any help would be appreciated.
Question 2
This same vehicle no longer has a workign air conditioner. When the air or the vent is turned on in general, there is a realy anoying and bad smell coming out of the vents. The air does not even have to be running to smell it. Just happens whenever the vent is open. I have recharged the air before but it never seems to stay. After recharching, the air is somewhat could for a short time but then after some time, just hot air is blowing. Even after recharging completely, their is never a good blast coming and if so, you have to pretty much be driving to get it to work. Thanks for all the help.
Kyle
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 5, 2007, 4:48 PM
Post #2 of 4
(2571 views)
|
|
Re: ac blowing warm air
|
Sign In
|
|
Question 2: What did you do to fill up the A/C system?? It no doubt has a leak in its evaporator and that's what you smell. The oil would make an odor the refrigerant alone is near odorless.
So fess up and say what you did to the A/C. Probably not related to your first question,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
somaticsoldier
New User
Jun 15, 2007, 6:31 AM
Post #3 of 4
(2531 views)
|
|
Re: ac blowing warm air
|
Sign In
|
|
Question 2: Its definitely true that there is a leak, possibly of freon. I'm not sure if there's anything wrong with the evaporator since that's what vaporizes the freon (hot). If your going to check the evaporator might as well check the compressor too, that liquidizes the freon (cold).
New Jersey-USA
(This post was edited by somaticsoldier on Jun 15, 2007, 6:32 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 15, 2007, 7:19 AM
Post #4 of 4
(2528 views)
|
|
Re: ac blowing warm air
|
Sign In
|
|
Checking for evaporator leak can be done two ways. Check where condensate drains out for oilyness which shouldn't be there. Best is to use an electronic leak sniffer and there should be none coming out of vents. Compressor can show leaking by oil between clutch and front of compressor or the sniffer again.
These cars are famous for evaporator leaks and you won't be happy about the cost of replacement or the time it can take to do that.
Get some gauges and check for pressures. Even a cheap low side only will at least give you a static pressure and if there's less than ambient temp F. than the pressure this system will need the work and not just charging to work.
For the smell they make deodorizer to spray where air comes in by wipers and in vents and can try something like Lysol which can work. If real moldy you about have to take out whole distribution box and clean it all up. A dead critter could be the problem too and hard to find. If evidence of nest making under the hood that's likely.
They sell sealants that could stop the leak but I don't recommend their use unless you want one last cheap try as it can cause problems and will void warranties on components if found.
You could just add some UV dye and look for leaks all over. You can see some with dye without a UV light and if doing with a UV light do it where it's somewhat dark for best detection.
The "check engine problem" -- After looking at that light for so long you probably have killed cat converters to add to the expense.
Think about the expense (thousands possible) and whether to fish or cut bait with this,
T
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Tierod end change caused some kind of leak
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
