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kamp4life
New User
Jun 28, 2015, 11:32 AM
Post #1 of 8
(1662 views)
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2007
Ford
Escape
3.0
I am trying to recharge my wife's Escape, but when I pull the trigger on the R134a can (while connected to the proper port), it doesn't discharge. Can anyone give me some good advise?
Thanks,
Don
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2015, 11:34 AM
Post #2 of 8
(1660 views)
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Take it to repair shop that specializes in AC servicing and repair.
You don't even know how much is actually in the system, so why are you shooting it?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2015, 12:56 PM
Post #3 of 8
(1650 views)
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Don,
We regulars about totally agree on this subject and work on A/C not being DIY at all. Still here to help and this case it's a warning not to touch it as there's so much to know to not blow the system or yourself up there aren't enough words.
What you have is what we or I call in the trade a death kit! Ya - It' one down from selling people a hand grenade with the pin pulled without warning you what could happen.
Trouble is doing things wrong cost way so much more than getting proper help. Read this bit now old but stands on just what it takes and it is short by hundreds of pages to just charge up a known working or fixed system never mind blow who knows what into one with can a store and maker was glad to sell and could care less after that!
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/..._A/C_SYSTEMS_P45460/
In short the wrong mistake isn't just a try that didn't work but rather can set you back much worse off than if you never touched it,
T
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kamp4life
New User
Jun 28, 2015, 1:44 PM
Post #4 of 8
(1642 views)
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Because the gauge reads extremely low.
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kamp4life
New User
Jun 28, 2015, 1:47 PM
Post #5 of 8
(1642 views)
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Thanks T,
The gauge is reading extremely low, but I appreciate your helpful words. Unlike the other reply I received, I will heed your advice.
Don
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2015, 4:13 PM
Post #6 of 8
(1637 views)
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Don - Mr. Descretesignals is as technically capable as techs get. I'm more verbose than anyone here is really all.
The point is you are unknowingly using a dangerous thing with one gauge that is so primal it has to use colors and so short on info as to exactly what you might see when with a wild algorithm of collating a bunch of observations, tests and known actual temps when and when. Those products sell and are allowed to be sold to the unwary of a host of troubles you can get in.
Pressures alone if you could have both and some vehicles don't have both ports still don't tell you system is properly charged or how much is in it. With all observations taken into account you can tell a system is operating properly and that's about it.
These kits near always use products that state they also contain sealing properties and some oil without any regard as to what oil your vehicle uses at all nor whether it's leaking or a sealer (none ever suggested by anyone) has a snowball's chance in hell of working so by default it's harmful!
There's just too much real physics with a strong understanding of how the heck you get cool air magically from an engine that makes so much heat naturally.
Pressures would be totally misleading for many reasons. If heater's heat is mixing in because of a fault reading would be all wrong and 100s of other reasons that don't involve the refrigerant charge at all.
OK - The "Death Kits" sell because perhaps 60% of lack of proper cooling is caused by low refrigerant charge which is also indicative that it's leaking either as simple as a valve/port of anywhere in the system sealing refrigerant.
There's a very high chance with inferior understanding that you push in too much refrigerant which will not only harm ability to cool for you but destroy parts there was nothing wrong with before doing it! That's the problem.
Many A/C shops well equipped and trained to understand what to expect where around me offer free checks to a point or a small cost to check your system out and suggest a course of action.
For all we really know about this exact vehicle and why A/C is even not working to your expectations could be a dumb as a bag caught up in your grille blocking air flow and you are about to do something that can wreck major components so we get a bit antsy to suggest getting pro help or advice with vehicle and in person for most.
Had you come in with higher to high end techno issues and listed out a standard set of observations and a system still not quite right would be another game.
It isn't your fault and not personal that how it all works just isn't a hit and run cheap fix most of the time but could be,
T
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2015, 6:09 PM
Post #8 of 8
(1629 views)
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The old days of topping off are gone. These system don't hold very much refrigerant anymore, because they have become more efficient, and there isn't much leeway in how much or less you can be off on the system charge. Too much or too little can cause ac performance issues or system damage.
Sure low pressure gauge may read low, but why? Is the system low, gauge reading right, gauge connected properly, or does it have a low side restriction going on? More than likely it will be a low charge, but the remaining refrigerant needs to be recovered and weighed. The system will probably need some dye added to find the leak and will need to be charged to the manufacture's specified weight.
I don't trust those charge cans. You don't know if the amount of refrigerant in them is correct unless you weigh the can. You don't know if the refrigerant is contaminated with who knows what since most of that stuff comes from China as most DIY don't have refrigerant analyzers. As the others stated charging by pressures isn't reliable. Use at your own risk.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 28, 2015, 6:16 PM)
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