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1995 Toyota PU overheating
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zliminator
New User
Sep 22, 2008, 6:46 AM
Post #1 of 6
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1995 Toyota PU overheating
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I have a 95 Toyota PU, 4cyl, 2wheel drive which I bought about 2 months ago. Just recently, for no reason, it started overheating. Its not leaking and its got plenty of coolant in it and it didn't look dirty, so I replaced the T-stat. That didn't help so I took it out. Same problem. The water pump should be ok because when I took out the T-stat I could see water flowing and I was told that when the water pump goes out, it will leak out the 'weep-hole' because of the bearings. So I took it to the shop and they said it was the radiator cap. They did a pressure test, put a new cap on it and charged me $67. They of course didn't test drive it over a long distance which is when the problem occurs, they just took it around the block. So then I bought some radiator flush and did that which it was pretty obvious that wasn't the problem so I don't know WTF to do now except wait for the engine heads to warp and buy a new or used engine. I can drive it around town on short trips but I have to stop and let it cool off. Anyone ever seen this problem?
Dan
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 22, 2008, 1:55 PM
Post #2 of 6
(1918 views)
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Re: 1995 Toyota PU overheating
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?? So far I would have blamed the radiator with what was done so far but you seem to think it's ok after a flush. If it's not consuming coolant and holds pressure normally then it narrows down to the exchange of heat at the radiator so the fan is in question. If this is a fan clutch (mechanical) it may just be freewheeling and not grabbing to pull air when the temp of air flow increases. Usually those cause low speed with high load issues first and can behave at higher speeds when air flow from the vehicle's speed is enough.
If electic fanned it probably isn't kicking on.
You thought the water pump was pumping which they usually do. It has happened that without leaks the impeller just can't pump well at low rpm but I find that rare.
If head gasket was a problem it could be pumping exhaust gasses into cooling system and air doesn't exchange heat well. If so you might notice recovery tank getting full or way too full too easy and quickly on start up and system pressures up faster than normal from cold. Heater may not work and unless still warm to hot weather where you are running heater full blast usually compensates poor cooling at radiator or at least helps it. If no heat at all - it's either overheating or air is in the system as either way air doesn't throw/exchange heat like liquid coolant will.
It's not known yet if a head gasket is the issue so check on what was just mentioned first. Best to avoid overheating at all,
T
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zliminator
New User
Sep 23, 2008, 2:58 PM
Post #3 of 6
(1909 views)
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Re: 1995 Toyota PU overheating
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That was it. I went ahead and slapped a new one in hoping that would fix it and I think it did. Thanks for your advice. Now, I have a problem with running rough and bad gas mileage. I just gave it a tune up and changed to oil and filter and air filter. This probably belongs in another section.
Dan
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 24, 2008, 4:10 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Re: 1995 Toyota PU overheating
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Did you just give it a tune up after the fix or just before? Overheating may have stressed things and more of a tune up could be needed. Compression and even evidence on plugs should lead to which cylinder(s) and what's going on. Could even be a vacuum hose leak or who knows. Keep looking as running rough will be hard on other items if left unchecked,
T
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zliminator
New User
Oct 5, 2008, 11:09 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Re: 1995 Toyota PU overheating
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It seems to me its still running a little on the hot side. After coming off the highway to a stop, I measure the temp of the head - its around 230F. I should probably measure the temp of the incoming radiator hose. Also, someone told me I should run 100% antifreeze - no 50/50. Someone else just told me that antifreeze is good for keeping it from freezing and boiling (it lowers the freeze point and raises the boiling point) but that for it to run cooler, I could try distilled water and only add antifreeze during winter months or to keep it from freezing. The people that both these opinions came from were very adimate about their opinions. So what is the truth?
Dan
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 5, 2008, 3:58 PM
Post #6 of 6
(1872 views)
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Re: 1995 Toyota PU overheating
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You shouldn't be seeing higher temps than the thermostat in coolant itself. Certain spots on engine would read higher. T-stats are usually around 195F - that's hot enough and any air temp would be lower at vents with just heat requested if you checked.
Pure EG anti-freeze will both freeze to slush at Zero F {{will stay liquid to much lower temps with water added oddly}} and boil over more quickly if strong as it has a lousy caloric value so must be mixed/diluted down to no more than 50/50 with near no exceptions unless you routinely drive North of the Arctic cirle in temp well below -40-50F !! In super hot climates that have no chance of freezing they use a product called just "Coolant" which can equal heat transfer of water with anti-corrosives in it. I AM MORE ADIMATE ABOUT THIS THEN THE OPINIONS YOU HEARD!!!! If you doubt that then call the 800# on the anti-freeze container and they'll tell you. Trust me - if they could sell everyone pure anti-freeze they's sell more but they know it's no good for a system - they'd be liable!
See the top of this section where I posted about EG and the lie about boilover protection. The pressure make up most of the increased boiling point NOT the anti-freeze! Plain tap water will work better with pressure cap working than any anti-freeze except it doesn't help with corrosion - that's a big deal too.
If you have more than 50% in there now there's little point in diagnosing till that's fixed.
**************
Ok: Back to it running warmer than it should. Fan must work properly (IMO fan clutches are only dependable for 5 years or so for warmer climates), radiator clear, thermostat known good, water pump known good, mix not to exceed 50%. If there's still a problem then it needs more diagnosing - such as head gasket issues, air in system unseen hose and radiator problems and airflow over radiator oddities with shrouding and or debris.
So where does it stand now, what ambient temps are you dealing with and measure temp at thermostat housing should be accurate with an infrared, touchless thermometer,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 5, 2008, 4:00 PM)
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