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flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350)


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XOtheJUGGALO
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Oct 12, 2014, 1:52 PM

Post #1 of 17 (1772 views)
flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Im tryn to flush all coolant from radiator and block on my 98chevy suburban v8 5.7 where are the drain plugs location on the block for the coolant and would it be safe to stick a water hose in the thermostat hole to help flush out any coolant dirt or rust left in the block and would it be safe for the radiator also?


Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 12, 2014, 3:08 PM

Post #2 of 17 (1755 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Arggh - there should be even for automotive on the 350 block two probably hex bolts on lower side water jackets that should empty block of coolant and allow for a better flush but if that bad it's in trouble IMO. Most never do this but do for non automotive use such as marine blocks of any sort or other uses for the engine.


If you find those and really want to go there and coolant is rusty don't expect coolant to come out when bolt is first removed. You probably will need to poke it with a wire then crud will come out.


A must for annual raw water marine to do this but not for engines with antifreeze in use so much.


Again, if that messed up it will get more but not all junk out if crusty rust bits that fell down to bottom,
T



kev2
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Oct 12, 2014, 3:20 PM

Post #3 of 17 (1752 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

purchase a bottle prestone radiator flush* and a coolant flush kit - walmart - follow directions then hook up to your garden hose and flush flush flush - most professionals do NOT remove those drain plugs, Pandoras box.


*might have to operate vehicle for a period for it to do its thing.


Hammer Time
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Oct 12, 2014, 3:29 PM

Post #4 of 17 (1751 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Draining the block is a good idea although they are small holes so you lose the fast moving flushing effect. It's a little messy doing that too because the coolant shoots all over the place. Just remember that if have a severely rusted system, some of that gunk you flush may have been hold back some leaks.



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XOtheJUGGALO
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Oct 12, 2014, 6:45 PM

Post #5 of 17 (1740 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Thank all of u for ur advice / time the rust isnt that bad from what im seeing this was my ants suburban it stopd running so she gave it to me she always put straight water in it never antifreeze.... i have another thing it keeps giving me a random missfire code i replaced sparkplugs n wires n distributer and ignition module what could also throw this code?


Hammer Time
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Oct 12, 2014, 6:56 PM

Post #6 of 17 (1736 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Any other codes?

What is the fuel pressure?



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Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 12, 2014, 9:38 PM

Post #7 of 17 (1732 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Parts quote from prior post ">>time the rust isnt that bad from what im seeing this was my ants suburban it stopd running so she gave it to me she always put straight water in it never antifreeze....<<"


Is it running at all now? Forget the antifreeze flushing if not even running for the moment but have it close to 50/50. I doubt that is causing misfiring and said it isn't appearing rusty so forget that for now. If that was the cause it would be from running too hot and why it needed to be refilled with water at all vs antifreeze as it shouldn't use it up at all.


If you disturbed distributor is timing now properly set?


Back - leaks of coolant noted on these from intake gasket but very early on not so much later for ones I've known. Know as much about the care of this engine as if never taken care of in general could be a problem that just care now is going to reverse neglect, sludge if applicable and so forth,


T



XOtheJUGGALO
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Oct 13, 2014, 4:27 PM

Post #8 of 17 (1706 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Only code it has is p0300 (engine missfire detected)

The truck was running and will run it was startn to get hot when i first got it but the thermostat was bad (had rust n wouldnt open or close) not having the money i ran it for awhile without one.
i parked it because there was a hole in the waterpump witch was causen it to loose the water she had in it


Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 13, 2014, 11:31 PM

Post #9 of 17 (1690 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

First you say no rust then so rusted thermostat can't open - which is it? If you run this without a thermostat it will kill engine in some time overheating in the back with too much flow to just the front satisfying temp gauge but smoking hot in the back.


Intake gaskets alone I doubt can take that, heads might. Engine controls will never figure out whether to control it as warmed up or stone cold now.


You got it with the water only trick that was such a bright idea now no thermostat just putting it out of it's misery IMO,


T



XOtheJUGGALO
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Oct 28, 2014, 11:27 PM

Post #10 of 17 (1655 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Srry for the late reply..

yes i know not one my best ideas running it with no thermostat lol im not the sharpest tool on the shead

Ive replaced waterpump,thermostat and hoses after flushing the block and radiator runs grate up until the rear differential gave out ive tore it apart n found out everything is ganna have to be replaced do you know what gear size it has or dose it really matter since ill be replaceing everything in the rear differential?


Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 29, 2014, 1:02 AM

Post #11 of 17 (1650 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Good grief, what happened to the rear differential? Why oh why did you tear it all apart. If you have this all in a mess of parts or whatever broke inside you may do better with an entire used rear differential. Match it up. Should have had a marking tag or something indicating what it was, ratio matters. Salvage yards will have info on what to exchange it with.


If all wrecked somehow I doubt you'll fix that one up especially if you've taken it apart,


T



XOtheJUGGALO
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Oct 29, 2014, 10:30 AM

Post #12 of 17 (1638 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

The pinion gear and spider gears are shreaded ive marked where the parts go and i would prefer to replace the parts with new parts instead of junk yard parts


Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 29, 2014, 10:58 AM

Post #13 of 17 (1635 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

Understand fear of used parts but what the heck physically broke the old one. That is either neglecting a strong warning or severe abuse. Gears broken are hardened metal and will chain ding up anything the parts ground up in. It's fussy work and if this was out of the blue surprise and you don't find why it could do it all over again.


This stuff doesn't just happen so easily is what I'm saying and 99% of whole unopened differentials just get squished and still good on truck grade ones anyway.


If this ran dry of oil/gear oil for some reason I wouldn't fix this one but rather try a used and fix that one as a core. I don't think you know what troubles you can get into and mess up the show with these things and we/you still need to find out which of a couple at least it could be,


T



Hammer Time
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Oct 29, 2014, 1:07 PM

Post #14 of 17 (1627 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

I wouldn't even think about to that differential yourself. The requires extensive measurements, calculations and preload adjustments. It also requires special equipment to make these measurements.



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XOtheJUGGALO
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Nov 1, 2014, 11:18 PM

Post #15 of 17 (1590 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

I believe its do to neglect cuz when i got the truck as i do every vehicle i do a complete flush and check parts to see if things are broken if the vehicle has been neglected that being said when i drained the fluid on my suburban whrn i got to the rear differential i took the cover off and barley any gear oil came out so i believe it was ran low for sometime

Again im more of a do it yourself kinda guy thats why i wanted to know the gear ratio witch ive found out its 8.5" now dont worry im doin my research about the correct bolt torque ect ect n if all else fails my "dad" if thats what u wanna call him knows a mechanic that will charge 250 for labor +the price of parts.
Ive never done a rear differential and i seen the chance to learn something i have little knowledge about.
Ive removed the crosspin,spidergears,bearings,open carrier case(yolk),axel shafts and the pinion ive marked where all parts go but ill be replaceing all parts n would like to know if theres a website i could order all the parts in a boundle instead of part by part or would if be cheaper to order part by part

Again thank you guys for all the help you guys helped me and many other ppl with


Tom Greenleaf
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Nov 2, 2014, 1:41 AM

Post #16 of 17 (1581 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

I don't need to read too much about this differential or your post except you found it low on gear oil or near none and then found broken parts. I totally doubt you could muster the tools needed to even decide if this one could be redone at all or just a heavy chunk of metal now.
If it was that low on gear oil you should have noticed noises and seen evidence of a seal leak.


It's a truck really so how many types of differentials would be several possible each with their own parts. If nothing else you need to know the gear ratio or any options it might have. I actually don't know how many so suggested you match it up or look for ID info on it to totally replace entire unit especially now that you've taken it apart + depending on just what there are one time use parts, parts that you can't fix, can fix and you kinda screwed yourself by messing with it before even knowing exactly what it is.


Whole thing is NOT all that expensive. If you want to learn something learn how to swap over brakes, brake lines as needed, parking brake setting and condition and most likely now prep the huge bolts and threads to remove the thing.


Many GMs used the axle itself for wheel bearing races over some many years also. If that bearing went bad even on the next one you would need both on that type and a new seal.


If you want to apprentice at a shop that does totally redo differentials or find a tech course in them plus some untold amount of specialty tools go for it. Shops, dealers, transmission and gear case repair places frequently get used cores to work with or assorted reasons. If the housing of this thing is all off your screwed to get another now.


With any reasonable care which is about nothing a differential can last indefinitely if not damaged and oil not leaking out and they do so you check now and then. Nobody has done a dang thing to this except the best try at killing it I've seen in a while.


The tuition for learning on the fly for some things is quite nasty expensive and this is one of those things.


It's done - find a salvage place that can help you at least find another.


In short you still have to know a lot about it with that. Where I am salvage yards only guarantee that units turn on the thing and you really wont be sure it's totally OK or not till you can drive it. YOU ALMOST CERTAINLY NEED A CASE LIKE AN ENGINE NEEDS A GOOD BLOCK to do anything and that's exactly where I about know where you are,


T



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Nov 2, 2014, 1:58 AM)


Hammer Time
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Nov 2, 2014, 4:56 AM

Post #17 of 17 (1571 views)
Re: flushing coolant from radiator&block 98chevy suburban v8 5.7(350) Sign In

You just don't get it all all. You cannot set up a differential yourself, I don't care if you have read a whole encyclopedia. I am a Mastetech that has been in this business for 50 years and I'm not equipped to completely set up a differential. Your 8.5 is merely the ring gear size and has nothing to do with the setup. The pinion depth, backlash and preload have to be measured precisely or this differential will howl and destroy itself in no time at all. Adjustments are done by installing (pressing) specific shims behind bearings. There is absolutely no chance of you doing this correctly on your own. Remembering where the parts go isn't going to help you here.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







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