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Yukon overheating, new water pump
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myakka
Novice
Oct 14, 2010, 6:10 AM
Post #1 of 12
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Yukon overheating, new water pump
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My 2004 Yukon SLT (5.3) started to overheat slightly last week. Checked the coolant and sure enough it was low. A few days later, the same thing, low coolant. The gauge never got above 3/4.
I checked it out closer to find the leak and sure enough it was coming from the water pump. No problem, replaced the water pump and thermostat (took about 2 hours). When I removed the old pump i removed the water pump to block gaskets, and cleaned the surfaces. The thermostat is in correctly.
I followed the GM instructions on burping the system, several times. I even replaced the thermostat again to make sure it was not the culprit. I also tried disconnecting the upper radiator hose and pouring coolant in that way to rule out an air lock. Yes the pump is spinning, so is the fan.
Here are the current symptoms.
1.) Truck starts, and after 2 minutes or more the temp gets up to 190-200F. Once this point is reached the temp ratchets up a little every 10-15 seconds.
2.) At this time only a little heat can be felt if the heater is turned on. Previous to the water pump change the heater worked fine.
3.) Even when the temp is at 200 the lower radiator hose feels "warm", not hot.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Oct 14, 2010, 6:29 AM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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Sounds like you still have air in the system.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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myakka
Novice
Oct 14, 2010, 6:56 AM
Post #3 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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Thanks for the reply. Are there tricks to doing that? Anything special about a 5.3 vortec?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Oct 14, 2010, 7:14 AM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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According to the service manual there should be bleeder screws on the engine somewhere.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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myakka
Novice
Oct 14, 2010, 7:25 AM
Post #5 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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That actually makes sense. Happen to have a link to the service manual so i can locate these screws? Thank you.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Oct 14, 2010, 7:51 AM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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I already checked Alldata and there was nothing. I would have posted it if there was.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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myakka
Novice
Oct 14, 2010, 8:03 AM
Post #7 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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Confirmed with GM, no bleeder screws. Now on to find out how to burp it properly, stubborn air lock...
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Oct 14, 2010, 8:19 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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Well, I don't know what to tell you. This also came from the manufacturer.
Filling Procedure
Notice: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine damage.
- Install the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
- Using the J38185 reposition the lower radiator hose clamp.
- If the left and right engine block coolant drain plugs were removed, perform the following.
3.1. Apply pipe sealer to the drain plugs.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3.2. Install the drain plugs.
Tighten the drain plugs to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.). - Install the engine block coolant heater, if equipped. Refer to Coolant Heater Replacement (Dealer Installation - 6.0L Engine) or Coolant Heater Replacement (4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L Engines) or Coolant Heater Replacement (AIL Engine).
- Lower the vehicle.
- Open the cooling system bleeder screws.
Important: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean, drinkable water.
- Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Capacities - Approximate Fluid.
- Close the cooling system bleeder screws.
- Install the coolant pressure cap.
- Start the engine.
- Run the engine at 2,000 - 2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
- Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.
- Shut the engine OFF.
- Allow the engine to cool.
- Top off the coolant as necessary.
- Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using the J26568.
- Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Sidom
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Oct 14, 2010, 10:55 AM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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I'm assuming the truck didn't have an overheating problem when it was full before. If that was the case barring anything really weird happening there is really only a couple of things that could be happening here..
The most common would be air in the system....Since you've already tried a few things, what I would do would be to get as much coolant in the reservoir as possible, run it and let it get to at least 3/4 or more with out pegging the gauge. Shut if off an let it sit, DO NOT REMOVE THE CAP, you do this and you're starting all over again. After it's completely cool (might have to sit for an hour or more) remove the cap and check the reservoir. If it's very low, then you had an air pocket which is now gone. Top it off & it should be good but double check it again the next morning.
If by chance you used a Bosch pump or anything but OE there a chance the impeller is spinning on the shaft. You can remove one of the heater hoses that feeds off the pump and find something to contain the coolant to limit the mess Have a helper start the engine and you should get good water flow out of the hose. Little or no flow and the pump is coming off........
If you have to take the pump off again, I want to see you get your time down to an hour or less on this engine.........
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myakka
Novice
Oct 14, 2010, 11:59 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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I will give that a try. It is a no name pump %&^$&#. I really hope that is not the problem.
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 14, 2010, 6:14 PM
Post #11 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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Sidom- I haven't seen this in stone but the way some of the belts (serpentine) run, is it possible to put a later (or earlier) pump on an engine and the impeller would turn the opposite?
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Sidom
Veteran
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Oct 14, 2010, 10:39 PM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: Yukon overheating, new water pump
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Yea you're right CH some of the SBs in the 90s had cw & ccw pumps which would give you problems if you got the wrong one...
This one is a different design and the T stat is a bottom mount on the pump and like any bottom mount...it can be a total PITA to get all the air out.
I have an air lift tool I use to use for bottom mount & remote reservoir systems only..... a while back I fought an air pocket on a plain Jane 350 sb..... a 350 sb????????? Can you friggen believe it??? I've never had that problem before..... I use the airlift on everything now......lmao
(This post was edited by Sidom on Oct 14, 2010, 10:40 PM)
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