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Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 8, 2013, 11:02 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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When I had it hooked up to the 10amp setting it read .55. The only fuse that made it drop when pulled was the door lock fuse. When I pulled it the meter dropped to .27.
When I put the door lock fuse back in I can hear the left rear door lock engaging and disengaging. Not sure if that means anything though but seems like it could be a sign. I know where the two front lock switches are but I'm not sure where the 4 door lock motors are. I'm guessing they're in the door but didn't want to pull the door panels until I knew for sure. Can someone point me in the right direction please?
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Mar 9, 2013, 12:21 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 4:04 AM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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It sounds like you are on the right track now. The .55 is 550ma so that is a lot. Dropping to .27 is a large drop but still having 270ma which is still too much so something else is on. I think the door locks may be the actual load but there is a control module somewhere that is not only drawing current but the door lock current is passing through is so you are only disconnecting one branch of the problem with the door locks. You need to find where that trigger is originating and cut it off at it's source.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Mar 9, 2013, 8:40 AM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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Just some off the wall thoughts MG - trust me I'm pooped from 20" of snow here! You apparently know this is the PDL causing the drain. A couple wild maybe things could be the manual switches are somehow exceedingly dirty or wet? Sometimes funky things happen usually in the snorkel where the wires bend usually in drivers door unseen in there but usually that makes a go or no go situation not a drain yet on anything I messed with. Since the locks still work. I doubt that is likely but wires as said in there can be a problem or have many times on me - usually a car with a history of tons of door use and short trips AND older.
IDK but perhaps it would be easy enough to unplug a switch and if this drain goes away that would be enough for me to toss that one.
Mommy's car was dead about a month ago and was the first disaster snow here. AAA line which I asked her to call was so overloaded it was just a busy signal!
Shoot. My jumper box isn't strong enough anymore and not buying a new better one at this point but had a fully charged high amp car battery here and jumped the freaking thing with cables as I couldn't get close enough - that worked BTW but OMG carrying a battery thru snow stunk.
The short point already mentioned I think is this is at least the third time that car (Suburban) has gone totally dead enough to reset the clock! I already know that just 2.5 year old battery is going bad from that. Two other times found when it got going someone left an overhead reading light on or a reason -- this last time I didn't?
Sorry for just the story but if that sucker has an intermittent parasitic draw I'm going to shoot myself Yes it can go a week or more without being run but that shouldn't be an issue or never has been on good battery.
It's not your topic but for that one I'll blame the battery has fried inside somehow by being dead too much and once when way too cold as that will kill any car battery and crack it!
You know I'm about done with this bull and worse my shop still here looks like someone let a bunch of two year olds trash the place so finding anything is a problem.
Back: I think your issue is PDL only but again question the battery life after you find it,
Tom
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Discretesignals
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Mar 9, 2013, 8:44 AM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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If you hear the left rear door lock actuating when you insert the fuse you need to find out what is causing the door lock relay(s) to activate. It may be the other 3 actuators are burnt out because they were left on too long. An actuator won't cause door lock activation. I'd say unplug each door lock relay one at a time with the fuse in. Find out which relay is being activating and then trace where the voltage is coming from.
Does this have factory remote keyless entry?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 9:19 AM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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Thanks for being patient with me HT. I now kind of realize how simple this test should've been. I should've watched a bunch of tutorials on how a multimeter works before I came on here asking questions. I don't like wasting anyone's time.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 9:38 AM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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No problem, you're cool
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Mar 9, 2013, 9:46 AM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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Darnit MG, you mean you been wasting my time? I could have been outside repairing the pool screen or laying out in the hammock between the palm trees sipping on an umbrella drink?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 1:00 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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Ha....it's raining and crappy here today. At least it's almost 45 degrees out and the snow is almost gone. I'd love to get out of this state. Not because of the weather either.
Okay, I have a different multimeter. I have the red lead hooked up to the 20amp port. I have the dial turned to the spot that has an A with a solid line under it and then a dotted line under the solid line. There are 4 settings. 2m, 20m, 200m and a 20. I have it set to the 20. On the digital display is has a mA in the corner. I'm getting a reading of .52. When I pulled the fuse to the door locks it went down to .27. I put the fuse back in and pulled the wiring connector on the left rear door lock motor. The meter then dropped to .31. I unhooked the passenger side front door unlock motor and it dropped to .21. Another thing to add is when I tried to unlock or lock the doors the other day you can't hear anything coming from the passenger side door lock motor. You can hear the one trying to lock or unlock on the driver's side though. Would a bad lock motor also cause a drain?
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Mar 9, 2013, 1:54 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 1:55 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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No, I don't. The door lock draw is the symptom. You need to find the cause which is something that is operating these locks and drawing current of it's own.
.27 is 270 miliamps and that's unacceptable. You need to get that under 50ma which will be .05 on that meter.
I would continue to check fuses until you find one that drops all of it. Don't overlook any aftermarket add-ons using inline fuses.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 3:05 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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That makes more sense. Thanks for the explanation. I was thinking I was in normal range when it dropped to .22 because it was less than .5. I didn't realize I was looking for .05.
I can't seem to find an inline fuse for the car starter but do have the toggle switch shut off. I'm going to keep looking.
I have the door lock fuse out and it dropped to .22. I then started pulling the maxi fuses. I pulled the one labeled IGN SW-BATT 2 and it dropped to .04.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Mar 9, 2013, 3:20 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 3:29 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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That would lead me to believe that someone tapped into the ignition switch input feed for something aftermarket.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 4:02 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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They have to tap into the ignition switch for an auto car starter, right? That's the only aftermarket device on this vehicle. The radio is even stock. No subs, amps, etc. Do you think I should completely disconnect the car starter? I've hooked up a car starter before, but due to lack of knowledge, I'm not going to go past that.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 4:18 PM
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No, you need to find where it's tapped in and disconnect it there. If there is an inline fuse there you can remove it. The reason I say this is that fuse feeds the ignition switch. When the switch is off, there should be no draw unless something is drawing before it gets to the switch. That splice should be visible under the dash, near the column somewhere.
There is a red wire that goes from that fuse, directly to the ignition switch and the splice has to be in that wire somewhere.
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(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 9, 2013, 4:21 PM)
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 6:10 PM
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I followed the wires running from the car starter box up to the ignition. There are two 30 amp inline fuses combined in one little black box. When I pull one fuse the amps on the multimeter go to 0 so it seems to cutoff all power to the car. When I pull the other fuse the reading stays the same.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 6:17 PM
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Sounds like you found your draw although i don't know if the "0" reading is believable.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 7:18 PM
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Great......since the draw is coming from the car starter does that mean it's toast? Also, the door locks are somehow ran through the car starter because now that the inline fuses are out there's no juice to the locks. Do you think if I remove the car starter and all of its wires that it's possible the door locks will then work? Whoever installed the car starter used those little splicing box deals on each wire so it shouldn't be too hard to remove.
If you were the one who was working on this car. Besides the fact you would've had it done days ago, what would you do? Remove everything associated with the car starter? If it weren't for the door locks running through it I would probably just pull the fuses and leave it at that.
One of the many things I have learned through all of this so far is that I'd much rather have a wrench in my hand than a multimeter.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 9, 2013, 7:31 PM
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Yes, the car starter is the source of the problem so the system needs to be removed to get everything working again. You may have to splice circuits back together that were interrupted by the starter install.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 9, 2013, 7:47 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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Thanks HT. I take it .04 makes more sense than 0. That's what I'm getting now after hooking up the multimeter again. Like you said, the reading is "unbelievable". It's not very accurate but as long as I have you here to decipher it it'll work just fine.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 10, 2013, 4:26 PM
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Re: Wiring Schematics for door locks 98 Olds Cutlass
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Okay, I can't remember the exact numbers from before but it was somewhere around 880mA. When I pulled the door lock fuse in went down to 540mA. I left the door lock fuse out, and then pulled the inline car starter fuses, and it dropped to 40mA. I ripped out all of the car starter components along with all wires. I only had to splice one since they used those hot wire splicers that snap on.
So, the car starter is out. The battery fuse is back in. I'm getting 40mA as a reading. It seems that the car starter was causing the drain on the door locks, correct?
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Hammer Time
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Mar 10, 2013, 5:06 PM
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Yep, it sure does. That was #1 suspect for the get go.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 10, 2013, 5:23 PM
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Thanks for all of your help through all of this. I knew with your help I'd eventually get it.
One last issue. All of the doors lock just fine. They all unlock fine except for the driver's side door. I'm talking automatically. I pulled the door panel, and when putting my hand on the actuator, I don't feel or hear it clicking like it's trying to unlock it. It's like it's not doing anything at all only when trying to unlock it. Does that mean the actuator is probably bad?
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Hammer Time
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Mar 10, 2013, 5:33 PM
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It could be. You'll have to test for power and ground arriving at it.
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MarineGrunt
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Mar 10, 2013, 5:41 PM
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It's working. I didn't realize she had taken out the trunk fuse the other day when she was trying to find the drain. She was pulling a different fuse each night. I noticed the trunk wasn't working and noticed the fuse out. I put it in and the driver's door now unlocks. I did pull the fuse out a few times to double check so it has to be it.
Thanks again for helping me figure all of this out.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Mar 10, 2013, 6:11 PM)
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nickwarner
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Mar 11, 2013, 4:55 PM
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Isn't it fun when customers try to diagnose things before you see them and don't tell you what they did? Gets you chasing your tail for minor things.
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