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Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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jewlsu4
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Jan 31, 2012, 3:01 PM
Post #1 of 23
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Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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Hi, I have an issue with my 2002 Saturn sl1 over 200,000 k. I started it the other day and the oil presser light came on so I turned the car off and checked the oil. It was a little low but good. It has been burning oil a lot. So I tried to restart it and it wouldn't go, it turned over lights and radio were working. I got a boost and it stared after a few tries. The battery is fine. So the oil pressure like came back on while driving. Flashing while accelerating. then going off when not. I checked the oil again and added more. And I made it back home. So I Changed out the oil pressure censor. And it continued to have the same problem.. You can smell burning oil .And I checked right away under the car and noticed the flex pipe was smoking. Would the flex pipe cause the oil presser light to come on. Or what would cause the issue with the flex pipe. There is a lot of oil at the back of the engine but I don’t know if there is a leak or not. There is black soot in the tail pipe. There are no trouble codes. I did a dry compression test 4 or 5 stroke. 5 count. But I guess I didn't leave it long enough and will have to re due it. Cylinder 1 came in at 135. - 2 was at 150. -3 at 140 -4 at 150. Plugs are clean. Boots and wires volt tested 1.at 3.9. -2 at 3.4. -3 at 3.1. -4 at 2.6. I also did an air leak test with a air compressor in the cylinder. No air coming from the coolant, No air from the tail pipe No air coming from the oil cap area. But air was coming from the throttle body. But I didn't remove the PCV valve. Which I guess can give a false reading so Ill have to re due that. The air intake manifold was removed at the time. I checked the PCV valve and it was oily and there were traces of oil in the tube to the throttle body. I'm not sure if that's normal. The valve was changed last year. I check out the fuel system by doing a few simple tests, system came on when in on position also heard the whirl in the tank. The water pump and starter and etc. censer where recently changed. Car temp says it’s normal, the EGR valve was cleaned. The hoses for the coolant are hot. Fan only works well on high I have to fix that. Now I did notice that the Exhaust manifold got extremely hot after only one minute of the engine running. And I stared to smell burning oil. May that be an issue? I’ve had no luck with getting an oil presser tester. All I could find are gauges no testers. Checked all part stores and pawn shops and kijiji. I priced out getting it checked at a few places and they want 150 to 250 to check it. So I think I will try and make one. I think all I need is a liquid filled gauge with 50 to 150 psi. And a fitting for the oil censer area and tube. I will try that and see if I can get a presser reading. If you have any thoughts please comment.
(This post was edited by jewlsu4 on Feb 2, 2012, 12:03 AM)
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Discretesignals
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Jan 31, 2012, 5:43 PM
Post #2 of 23
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Re: Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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Wow that is one heck of a long paragraph. In fact in the middle of your paragraph you repeated what you just wrote.
I think the main thing you should be concerned with is the low oil pressure light coming on. All the other stuff doesn't mean anything if the engine has low oil pressure. You need to hook up an oil pressure gauge to confirm if it actually has low oil pressure or not. If it does, you might as well start looking for another engine or vehicle.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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jewlsu4
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Jan 31, 2012, 11:55 PM
Post #3 of 23
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Re: Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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I fixed my original post I think.lol.
(This post was edited by jewlsu4 on Feb 2, 2012, 12:07 AM)
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Discretesignals
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Feb 1, 2012, 8:09 PM
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Re: Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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Engine oil pressure testers can be found all over the internet. Even Amazon sells them.
Your first priority is determining if the engine itself has adaquate oil pressure. You shouldn't drive or run the engine anymore until you have the oil pressure tested. Without enough or any oil pressure, your engine is toast.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 1, 2012, 8:14 PM)
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jewlsu4
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Feb 1, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Re: Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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I don't want to order on online it could take weeks to get it. Do I need just a gauge or a tester? Is there a difference for my particular situation? I found some gauges at princess auto. Just not sure what one I am suppose to get the air one that reads 0 to 200 or the liquid one that reads from 0 to 2000 psi. I was told at idle the oil pressure should be 13psi min, at 2000 rpms it should be 29psi min oil pressure cold at 2500 rpms 80psi min. So I need a gauge that would show lower psi readings?
(This post was edited by jewlsu4 on Feb 2, 2012, 12:09 AM)
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Discretesignals
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Feb 2, 2012, 6:03 AM
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You wouldn't want a gauge that reads more than 100 psi or else you would have a hard time reading lower pressures. You should be able to tell them what you want it for and they may be able to point you in the right direction. Ideally you want the tester because the tester comes with a gauge, hose, and adapters so you can screw the hose into the oil pressure port on the engine. If you go your route, you have to gather all the pieces to make it work.
Something like this would work:
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 2, 2012, 6:06 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 2, 2012, 6:20 AM
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Re: Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...
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http://www.tooltopia.com/...=oil+pressure+tester
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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jewlsu4
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Feb 2, 2012, 1:23 PM
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Got a oil pressure tester. Started the car. Oil reading came in at 59
for idle at 100 rpms. On the cold engine. After it warmed up.It slowly
went down to 10. at 70 rpms. At cold start at 2000 rpms the gauge went
up to 70. Also not much of a change when up to 2500.rpms. I let the car
warm up for 5 mins. Checking the rpms occasionally to see if they went
up when accelerated. Only went up to 70. So after the car was warm I
went up to 3000 .Then I lost pressure. It would not go back up when rpms
raised. Idle stayed at 10 on Gage. I shut the car off checked the
connection for the ague. I restarted the car but there was no pressure
on acceleration. I waited an hour and Restarted the car And the gauge
read 18 psi. And when revved the gauge lowered. I shut the car off. Any
Ideas?
(This post was edited by jewlsu4 on Feb 2, 2012, 2:50 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 2, 2012, 3:04 PM
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I'm suspecting that the sump screen is getting plugged up with garbage in the pan. You probably should drop the pan and check it out.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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jewlsu4
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Feb 2, 2012, 7:52 PM
Post #10 of 23
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Did another compression tests 10 strokes. Came back with 175-180 for cylinders. Gonna get a T connector hook in pressure tester and censer and run till the light comes on again. See what going on and go from there. Don't think I have the right tools to drop the oil pan.
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Hammer Time
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Feb 2, 2012, 7:56 PM
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About the only way oil pressure will drop under acceleration is if it loses the oil supply fpr some reason and a blocked screen is the most likely. Compression has nothing to do with the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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jewlsu4
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Feb 3, 2012, 8:49 PM
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Well after coming to no conclusion. I brought my car into Canadian tire, which it the closest place for me.I told them everything and they lifted it up to see what was going on.They think That I have a leak some where at the back of the engine and also from somewhere in the Timing chain camshaft area. He also said he smells fuel in the oil. He said the cost of repairs are not worth fixing it. So I guess I'm looking for a new car. Not sure where to start with that one.lol.Thanks for everything.
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Discretesignals
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Feb 3, 2012, 9:16 PM
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Thanks for letting us know your outcome even though it sucks monkey nuts. Sorry to see that you had gotten bad news. It doesn't take very long to trash an engine once the oil pressure goes out.
If the transmission and the rest of the car is in good shape, you might be able to get a good low mileage used engine from a salvage yard and have it installed. Most salvage yards have a warranty, so check that out. You can also go with a re-manufactured long block if you don't want a salvage yard unit. It may be cheaper to have another engine installed instead of having payments on a new car or buying a used one.
Get some quotes and then you can make a better decision on what you would like to do. If you go with another used vehicle, have it inspected by your mechanic before purchasing it. It's smart to have a professional check it over to be sure your not getting another problem child.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 3, 2012, 9:18 PM)
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jewlsu4
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Feb 4, 2012, 12:10 AM
Post #14 of 23
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I don't think the engine is trashed. The engine Compression is good? Not making any noise or over heating. Its still running. It didn't die to and from the shop.lol. I had the pressure tester on all the way and it stayed at About 60 psi on the way there. I didn't check it on the way back after the bad news but I tried to stay under 2000 rpms. It did fell a little doggish going home. I think the pressure did drop. We lifted up the front right splash shield and there is a lot of oil coming from some where which wasn't there a few weeks ago. And I park in the same spot everyday and no puddle. The guy said it would be like 900 bucks just to get in a look at that one spot. Then there's a leak at the back of the engine behind the starter which he guesses is a head gasket. Which I could probably do myself. And then the fuel thing too. But that could be because of the head gasket I think If there's a leak. He mentioned checking the fuel injectors and that maybe to much fuel is getting in. I dont have a garage I'm doing this on the street in front of my house.lol. And to remove the crankshaft and what not could get messy. I may park it in the back and wait till the summer and have a project on my hands. I wont be buying a used car. Brand new. I don't want to buy someone elses problem.lol. I bought my Saturn brand new off the lot and I think I put just as much into it as I paid for it. The guy didn't charge me which was nice. He just kept telling me how impressed he was with me.lol.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Feb 4, 2012, 1:45 AM
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jewlsu4: Please space out thought like paragraphs. I may be challenged but can't read run on sentences and paragraphs,
T
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Hammer Time
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Feb 4, 2012, 4:00 AM
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If they took nothing apart their diagnosis amounts to no more than a wild guess. It's a 2002. It should be worth putting a used motor into.
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jewlsu4
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Feb 4, 2012, 11:01 AM
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I'm gonna take off the valve cover, the tire and splash Gard and see If there's any obvious.
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Hammer Time
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Feb 4, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Tire and splash guard?
We're looking at the inside of the engine, not the outside. There is nothing to see in the wheel well.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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jewlsu4
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Feb 5, 2012, 7:35 PM
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I was just going to take it off to look and see whats going on I have to take it all aprt to get in there anyway. So I did notice one thing today when replacing the Oil censer from the presser tester and saw that the wire connector to the censer has two hole for the prongs. But only one of the holes had a piece of metal in it for connection.Would that be another issue. Or is it suppose to be like that. Well I went car shopping with no luck yet I did find a used sea bring convertible jx. lol. 130 k for 3999. Might get me by for a bit and have some fun in the summer. Gonna get at the valve cover this week sometime.
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Hammer Time
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Feb 5, 2012, 7:39 PM
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Simply look at how many wires there are.
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Discretesignals
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Feb 5, 2012, 8:09 PM
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You might as well shoot yourself in the face if you buy a Sebring. Just my 2 cents.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 5, 2012, 8:09 PM)
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jewlsu4
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Feb 6, 2012, 2:35 PM
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No Sea Bring.lol Just like the idea of a convertible. I took some pics. I took off the valve cover. And it was clean, Maybe to dry? Right side had a little oil and left side was clean You can see the brass tones. So I took off the wheel and gard to have a look where the leak may be comeing from because theres only oil around the filter area Alternator and above the filer which I cant getrin to see.The tensioner, pump and pully and belt clean.I 'm pretty sure its too much to just be a leaky filter. But I dont know could be spreeding out. Im gonna do a filter change anyway and try and clean up the area. I did not see any leaks from the valve cover or any oil around on the engine. Not sure about the leak in the back could be old oil?Who knows yet. Its snowing and that's all I can do today.lol.
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