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Automotive Repair Car Troubleshooting Topics   Car Troubleshooting   Engine Troubleshooting   Engine Fault Codes   Electrical and Wiring   Transmission Problems Car Repair Topics   Car Making Noises   Car Stereo Repair   Heating or AC Issues   Motorcycles and ATVs   Tricks of the Trade   Truck Repair Advice Site Options:      Login   Sign up here! Latest Forum Post   2011 Dodge Nitro OBD scanner seems to drain battery in 10-20 minutes When I bought this car in summer 2023, a... Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk The Cable that connects my negative batt... Rough Idle (Found new thing) Hi everyone. First of all sorry for bad ...     equipment hey yall. im a first year engineering st...   HELP I have a 1956 1/2 ton panel truck, 69 35...   Howdy     Just wanted to s...   ABS/Tractiob/Brake Lights on But No DTCs Hello all, Recently while driving m...   Chevy strut replacement I'm trying to get a sensor of some kind ...   2020 suburban new transmission and issues after install recently had the transmission fail at 11...   Caliper piston post cleaning won't screw in Hello, 2013 Hyundai Elantra limited (ma...

Search Auto Parts Search Rear Brakes locking Sign up here!   Email This Post Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> Car Troubleshooting Guest Anonymous Poster j.saville@sympatico.ca Feb 2, 2006, 4:27 PM Post #1 of 6 (2191 views) Rear Brakes locking Sign In 1995 chev half ton, with anti-lock brakes while driving rear brakes lock without contact with brake pedal. any suggestions as to why? Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Feb 2, 2006, 5:26 PM Post #2 of 6 (2187 views) Re: Rear Brakes locking Sign In Tricky one: Any recent work? Especially adjustment of rear brakes or a master cylinder? ___________________ I had this problem with all four wheels with a defective NEW master cylinder. Took a lot of hair pulling out to figure it out as it wouldn't do it cold?? Turns out the centering hole wasn't drilled deep enough in the new master and the fluid when warmed by the engine or anything couldn't return to the master so the brakes were behaving like they were on hard!! I suppose a defective perportioning/combination valve could do this but in decades of working on cars I've never seen one do it. If the brake fluid can't return for any reason the expansion of the fluid by heat will apply that brake(s). T Guest Anonymous Poster Feb 2, 2006, 5:41 PM Post #3 of 6 (2184 views) Re: Rear Brakes locking Sign In problem just started one day, so I changed the master cyl. Same problem. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Feb 2, 2006, 6:15 PM Post #4 of 6 (2182 views) Re: Rear Brakes locking Sign In Arggh! Rear wheel clinders require a touch of pressure all the time which is achieved thru the perportioning valve to keep those cup seals from leaking. Hang in there - I'm struggling for ideas. I would take off back drums and at least dump out the dust. DON'T BREATH THE DUST!! Take a good look at the shoes. Look for cracks or broken pieces. One at a time with a helper you could watch the wheel cylinder work with drum of but don't depress pedal too far or they could blow out. Just enough to see them move. They should retract with just the springs as designed. Next -- any chance of a crushed brake line to the rear? A visual check should do and if they bleed it kind of rules that out. Keep at it. T (taking a break for a while - I've been at this for hours!) Guest Anonymous Poster Feb 2, 2006, 6:46 PM Post #5 of 6 (2175 views) Re: Rear Brakes locking Sign In Thanks Tom! Check that out tomorow. Get back to you. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Feb 3, 2006, 4:46 AM Post #6 of 6 (2166 views) Re: Rear Brakes locking Sign In Had one more idea if you don't find anything else. The rubber flex hose that should go to the center of the differential could have an unseen fault which is very rare but so are your problems here. They can actually make a "reed" valve inside them which will only allow flow one way. I've seen that many times. in front wheels but they each have their own - the back uses just one which could effect both back wheels.!! The fronts have to twist and take more trauma so it's more common there. A car could come in with a smoking hot wheel that you can't turn and the diagnosis is open the bleeder a bit and if it turns it IS the most lkely cause. If you are underside put penetrating oil on the flare nuts and they have a much better chance of behaving later if ever needed to remove. That applies to all of them - fuel filter and other items. I live in a rust belt and those things are a pest and you learn quick how to make brake lines etc. I'm here several times a day so will get any new info from you quickly, T   Email This Post   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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