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Quit while driving


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rar2121
New User

Nov 3, 2014, 7:19 AM

Post #1 of 4 (1105 views)
Quit while driving Sign In

1986 S10 Blazer 2.8 V6 190000 miles quit while driving I have checked for fuel and fire have fuel spray and fire from coil but only one spark at plug wires when engine is cranked I installed a used distributor have same problem


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 3, 2014, 7:38 AM

Post #2 of 4 (1098 views)
Re: Quit while driving Sign In

One spark @ one cylinder? Somehow I show two type but should be a cap and rotor on this engine. Two different distributors do the same thing so I ask you to watch the rotor turn while hand cranking engine by balancer bolt just back and forth a bit.


Bet it isn't moving? Can you turn the rotor by hand maybe with engine totally off and key out?


Next if it moves is just see how much lash the timing chain has by pointing rotor such that you can line up timing marks too, see it's at or close to #1 and crank by bolt back and forth and see how many degrees it turns bolt before it moves rotor. If more than 5 it's trouble. At some # it really wont keep any accurate timing or jumping around constantly possible and somehow picking just one cylinder with the best ground to fire for you?


Could also be a dramatic problem with cap and rotor is using same ones,


T


T



rar2121
New User

Nov 3, 2014, 8:08 AM

Post #3 of 4 (1092 views)
Re: Quit while driving Sign In

I just tried what u said rotor moves instantly tried another cap and rotor coil wire sparks good but plug wire only fires once . if u turn key off and try again one spark only each time u try


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 3, 2014, 8:39 AM

Post #4 of 4 (1086 views)
Re: Quit while driving Sign In

I'm really trying to rule out the timing chain lash = free play in it. Apparently not totally broken if rotor turns. If not familiar with turning a crank bolt located inside center of harmonic balancer then try a compression test.


If this is all off to a trained ear you could just hear it the lack of proper compression and valve timing off so wouldn't make much or any really. A bit different that it fires only once?


The idea of the turning bolt isn't just one way you need to see the difference from being tight one way and how far it turns looking at timing marks before rotor turns the other way when you do that.


Plenty of things can happen, this just is one that can go by surprise like that. When/if swapping out used stuff for testing I would expect at least something to change that didn't so let's start ruling out some stuff that happens with some age and miles like that timing chain. You can't see the thing by eye till it's all apart so this is a way to find out how worn it is. Most at this age would have been done already and not usually a third ever.


Other is are you swapping over more to this other distributor? Module look OK meaning have wires rubbed bare from vacuum advance moving? Most of those if so just quit and you get nothing but you are swapping parts around so guessing first at what could be troubles and rule them out,


T


(edit) Pic of chain set....



I've seen those flop around so loose without a symptom it's shocking. Some or many OE and still could be ones used nylon teeth on the larger (cam) gear that would either chip away or wear down almost smooth)



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Nov 3, 2014, 9:00 AM)






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