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leogallant
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May 31, 2015, 8:34 PM
Post #1 of 8
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NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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1963 Ford Falcon 170 new carb adjusting help.
What is the general instructions to set the mixture?
Out the box the mix is way to rich. I only see two adjusting points. One on the pumps and one on the base of the carb.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 1, 2015, 12:23 AM
Post #2 of 8
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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This an OE 1V carb? Simple thing.
Think of a carb as bottom, middle and a top - OK?
Bottom screw for mixture is idle mixture. If unknown, wrong or messed with bottom it in and back out 3 turns and leave it there and forget it.
The real mixture is the level of fuel in the bowl controlled by float level is adjustable by where the float shuts off the incoming fuel and maintains a level in the bowl. Unless float itself sinks or messed with that's really a one time thing and forget that as well.
All other things about how it runs in order then you can lock the idle speed which is another screw that just is a throttle stop. Those are the two things you see that can be adjusted, the float only with top off. An accelerator pump might have a screw but more common to have just a rod to bend or proper hole to choose on a lever.
Choke issues and adjustments are their own game either auto or manual when OFF mean nothing to the way it runs warm. Early 60s you might change an auto choke for a Winter and Summer setting but didn't really have to.
I will look up specs if you say if this is an OE type carb. If not and very serious you really need very good guessing at float level is all. Fuel mix with air you aim for area of about 14 parts air to one part fuel if vapor burns completely. Any other features make drivability better and all like to be in good order, clean and working.
The most problems with adjustment are from people messing with them to cover another problem they can't find! Example: It stalls so just raise the idle up so high it can't. That or it idles too high and you lower it. Wrong move. Find the other source issue in those cases.
T
(edit notes) Carbs do not self adjust to changes in fuel used or altitude and temperature where used most often. It would like when possible for those things to remain constant. Weight of fuel (weigh exactly one gallon if you are bored) of assorted fuel and try to find pure real gasoline. The gasoline should weigh the most such that a float will float earlier. With this obstacle you choose adjustments for the middle of what you use or situation you are in.........
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jun 1, 2015, 12:41 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 1, 2015, 2:01 AM
Post #3 of 8
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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If this is a new carb there shouldn't be any reason to open anything up. Even the idle mixture should be close out of the box. If there is an big issue with the carb, I would simply return it. The only thing actually adjustable is the idle air mixture which should only be adjusted when fully warmed up.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 1, 2015, 3:08 AM
Post #4 of 8
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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New or new to you? Should be close except for idle speed out of box.
Where troubles are way too common is the choke - with either type, manual or automatics that don't shut off only used exhaust heat or a heater hose (more on GMs) to warm it. If (wildly common) exhaust tube isn't intact and working it'll never shut off. You do not get that stuff with a carb new or used,
T
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leogallant
User
Jun 1, 2015, 4:05 AM
Post #5 of 8
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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Thank you Tom, I would like the specs for the carb. It is a MotorCraft re-built it has the Ford logo stamped on the side. The accelerator pump does have an adjustment screw as well. Does that adjust the float level?
(This post was edited by leogallant on Jun 1, 2015, 4:49 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 1, 2015, 6:16 AM
Post #6 of 8
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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Bear with me - the book (just weighed it) is FIVE and a 1/2 pounds to get old OE specs. Note that this must be on the web page by page and impossible for me personally to just post the pages you are concerned with as they wouldn't be readable if I could.
OK - Call this thing new. You declared it runs rich. 1st thing that must be known especially if on car now is choke is wide open and engine warmed up totally preferred.
1. Are we talking about idle only? If you don't answer the questions I can't help you much. This requires that engine is sound and tune up items good like no fouled out plugs or any tune up or out of spec engine wear is off spec as in worn or valve timing off - OK?
Forget float for this but level should be at 1" and would take two pages to get into how and if that send this carb back. It requires taking top off carb and that's not right if you had to on a rebuilt and would (no doubts here) void any warranty.
Apparently Falcon if this is right for a Falcon only came with a manual choke. The Mercury Comet did come with an automatic so if changed need to know that if that's the issue. Either the choke plate must be wide open such that you can't by finger open it more or restricted from opening by how you hooked up the cable to actuate it which you could screw up.
All this ENGINE OFF for now.
A warning for cables for choke and throttle as you just put this carb on: If stops for cables for their maximum range isn't stopped by how you set it and stops only by pivots of carb plates you can either break those in carb or they can't reach proper locations. Wouldn't change mixture but common fault is you set the cable for WOT with interior gas pedal hard to floor and at the same time set and lock the cable case watching plate being straight open but not taking the stress. 25% of all cars new were wrong with just that and never noticed for sometimes the life of them.
Spec for idle mixture. This is a range from bottom plate screw, near where accelerator pump is also but lower. That if you count turns (always do that so you can put anything back to where it was) in. It's new so my guess is you'll find it turns in and stops at 3.5 turns as spec will be 3-4 turns OUT. If you find that way more OUT that is the problem. OK to put it at 4 turns out now engine idling warm and turn in (leaner) watching RPMs or keen listening till engine idle drops. You can if you wish turn back out from that 1/2 turn if an average day the car would be used temperature wise. THE ONLY TIME YOU SHOULD EVER HAVE TO TOUCH THAT AGAIN IS TO CLEAN IT OUT AFTER MILES AND USE AS A SERVICE NOT ANYTIME SOON!
That is idle mixture and also involved in mixture of part throttle use but forget that now. THAT AND CHOKE WITH THIS WOULD BE ABOUT THE ONLY FLAW OR ADJUSTMENT FOR A TOO RICH MIXTURE IF ALL ELSE IS WELL - Got it?
Other adjuster is on accelerator pump or AKA 'dashpot' plunger is a squirter for extra fuel for changing speeds so engine doesn't stumble. Setting is between the screw where it touches the plunger (in center of four screwed in thing) = 5/64th. THAT CAN'T CHANGE MIXTURE AT ALL if not touching/moving throttle and only for that moment.
Idle speed calls for 525 RPM for this. Most people would like 600, I would so long as if shutting off warmed up engine doesn't run on by itself and shouldn't. That with an older engine give you a bit more oil pressure at idle that totally helps the engine. If annoying to you lower it.
Hey - This is rebuilt/new so other (many never to be touched) adjustments and things are either right or carb goes back. They can require bending rods - things you shouldn't have to do at all.
Do remember that rest of the engine must be right, no vacuum leaks and tune-up set to specs. This is a then considered low compression engine ~8.7-1 ratio to use THEN "Regular Fuel" of 93 octane. Premium was 98! Can't do that and measured rating different so if this "knocks" you reduce ignition timing from spec of 8 degrees before to perhaps 4. If you do knock it will suggest out of spec intake manifold vacuum which is responsible for how much fuel will be pulled in.
Need some feeler gauges for this, a dwell tach is great and vacuum gauge and know where to use it. Static idle Hg should be close to 18Hg if close to sea level. Deduct 1Hg for each 1,000 ft. of elevation you check that # at.
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No joke buddy. The book to cover this in paper (very thin paper) is 1,410 pages!
To keep this as concise as possible begin with that and ask for a specific thing one at a time for carbs as it's even somewhat involved for a silly one barrel carb with a manual choke!
Good luck, Tom
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leogallant
User
Jun 1, 2015, 10:52 AM
Post #7 of 8
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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Thank you again Tom, you have been a great help with my old toy...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 1, 2015, 11:10 AM
Post #8 of 8
(1350 views)
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Re: NEW CARB ADJUSTMENT
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! Old toy !! These cars were my favs when they were not so old - now we both are!
Seriously - 63, Best of them of '60-63. Engine/carbs were identical for each choice of many engines/trans packages just 63-65 models.
Weak link in many in-line sixes is the looooong intake gasket can duplicate carb problems. That's why I asked for vacuum by "inches of mercury" which is Hg as shown on a gauge. It's very telling that you have things right or what to look for,
T
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