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Injector Trouble - 1992 300zx


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needhelp596
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Aug 8, 2010, 10:50 PM

Post #1 of 9 (2432 views)
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Ok guys, I need some help again with my base model 1992 300zx. A week or so ago my injector on the passenger side closest to the windshield went out (2nd time this year it has done so) and I used the Dremel method to replace it. The shop sold me a Python 630-251 fuel injector (they said it was the same one i had before but i noticed one of the colors was different). After that was replaced it started right up and i drove it for about 15 minutes or so then let it sit for 2 hours. While i was driving it I smelled a little gas and it smoked when I accelerated from a stop. Also whenever I put the clutch in to come to a stop (not when i would shift gears) the car would stall but no check engine light was on.

After letting it sit for 2 hours it won't start at all now. When i turn the key it just clunks half the time and the rest of the time the engine turns over a couple of times and I can hear it firing a few times but then it just stops (the car never starts fully). I checked the ECU and it gave me code 11 (crank angle sensor).

The only wire i disconnected when I was replacing the injector was the injector wire and I only took out 4 or so bolts and disconnected one fuel line. I put it all back together the way it was, so I'm not even sure the problem has anything to do with the injector replacement (although it would be a strange coincidence for a whole new problem to arise just as I fixed this one).
Any help is appreciated,
Tim


(This post was edited by carjunky on Aug 20, 2010, 1:07 PM)


Sidom
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Sidom profile image

Aug 8, 2010, 11:11 PM

Post #2 of 9 (2430 views)
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Re: Injector Trouble [In reply to] Sign In

and I used the Dremel method to replace it.

What exactly is the.........Wait!! I don't wanna know!!!....... Ok.......what is the dremel method????

As far as the injector. 1st get an ohm meter and ohm the new injector & old ones. Make sure the reading are all very close, within an ohm of each other... If not get an OE or close to it injector and see if that makes a difference.

If that checks out it might be good to lets us know how the car was running before you changed the injector and also what lead you to believe the injector was bad.....

If you clear the code, does it come back?






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needhelp596
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Aug 9, 2010, 12:28 AM

Post #3 of 9 (2426 views)
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The dremel method is using a dremel tool to grind away a very small amount of the plenum in order to gain access to the second screw holding the fuel injector cover in place.


needhelp596
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Aug 9, 2010, 12:43 AM

Post #4 of 9 (2424 views)
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I changed the injector because the check engine light came on and the ECU said it was the injector circuit. I put a screwdriver to my ear and listened to each of the injectors. All sounded good (a loud clicking) except one which made no noise at all. This is the same thing that happened last time and after i replaced the injector that time it solved the problem.


Sidom
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Aug 9, 2010, 12:52 AM

Post #5 of 9 (2423 views)
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Ok if the car was running good before the swap the go ahead & check out what I posted 1st.....

You may have got a bad injector or one with the wrong resistance..






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(This post was edited by Sidom on Aug 9, 2010, 12:52 AM)


needhelp596
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Aug 9, 2010, 1:25 AM

Post #6 of 9 (2417 views)
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But the car was not running well before the swap, hence the swap. I had this problem about a year ago (two injectors went out). Then a few days ago one of the injectors i replaced went out again. I went to the store and bought the same injector that I had bought about a year ago and replaced the defective one.


needhelp596
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Aug 9, 2010, 6:37 PM

Post #7 of 9 (2409 views)
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Ok, I just removed the injector and sure enough the lower o-ring was broken in half. I replaced the o-ring and put the injector back in (using some motor oil as lubricant). Then I removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine a few times to try and get it to dry out a little. After I put it all back together I gave it a jump and it started.
I let it idle for 5-10 mins and it seemed ok (there was a little bit of smoke coming from the passenger side exhaust though). Then I drove it home and again, every time I put the clutch in the car stalled and for the first 5 mins or so of driving there was tons of smoke when I accelerated.
I know I still need to change the oil, but that can't be the cause of this, can it?
Thanks
-Tim


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Aug 9, 2010, 6:42 PM

Post #8 of 9 (2406 views)
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Quote
I replaced the o-ring and put the injector back in (using some motor oil as lubricant).


That was probably the very worst thing you could have done. Petroleum eats rubber




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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Sidom
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Aug 10, 2010, 1:04 AM

Post #9 of 9 (2390 views)
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Well the smoke is not good. What color is it?

This is a little tough, I'm just getting bits and pieces. I still don't know if these injectors made it better, worse or no improvement at all from the original problem.....

If the engine it running rough all the time try to pinpoint which cylinder. If you can take a compression test..

You got lucky on the lower O ring. I know a tech who forgot to put that one on, on a Nissan, and with one turn of the key, bent a rod....






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