Hello,

I have a 94' Buick Lesabre 152k miles automatic. I have had it a the mechanics garage for about 5 days now. The well known mechanic has still yet to find the problem. As if its not bad enough I have to be seen in this car.

I need a special adapter for my car to get error codes, but luckily, no one has one! Car X,Auto Zone,Advanced Autos, Macco, Midas and the list goes on.

Whats wrong: Where to start. Ok, the car is two faced some days it would run fine and another day it wouldn't start at all. At first it was just missing and shutting off or stalling when it was idle. Once or twice as I was actually driving, like on the gas. I changed out the spark plugs and fuel filter and it ran ok for about a week then it started up again. I'm telling you this car decides when it wants to mess up thats why the "mechanic" can't fix it. The day I took it to the garage it wouldn't stay running, even in idle. I had to floor it just to get it to stay running and even then it was missing and wanting to shut down. So the next day I went back to the car in the morning and it started right up and drove perfectly to the garage. We have no clue what it could be, and I'm not expecting a correct answer. I just need somewhere to start.

Any suggestions of what it could or would be, will be much appreciated!

thanks for your time.
3izarre@gmail.com

If you have a check engine light coming on, then that's where you have to start. Just because the free service places can't read the codes doesn't mean it can't be done. Your car is in a transition year between OBD1 and OBD2 so it's not 100% of either. That means it can only be read with a professional scan tool which any reputable repair shop should have. It just won't be free.




78 Corvette Pace Car For Sale-18k mi orig-Florida

Thanks for your reply,

I don't have a check engine light, even though I know it should be on. Probably just broke.

I agree with taking it to another garage or service station, which I'm planning to do at the end of the week. I'm trying to be patient.

From the symtoms I'm expierencing what do you think it could be? I understand it could be numerous things, but you think its electrical or maybe something messing up in my fuel system, engine trouble?

There are three or four items that are very common for this vintage; Might ask the tech if he has checked them:
1) Mass Air Flow sensor (sometimes you can tap on it lightly with a screwdriver handle, or squeeze with your hand)
2) Ignition control module (most times, these act up when hot. Can apply heat with a heat gun)
3) Crankshaft sensor (same as control module)
4) Faulty injector or harness. (Ohm test cold and hot, ohm test harness)
I assume that he has already tested fuel pump pressure?
Loren
SW WA

(This post was edited by Loren Champlain Sr on Oct 27, 2009, 5:36 PM)

Those symptoms sound correct,

My car always started up in the morning (cold) And would act up when I would get off work around 2:00pm (hot). Thanks for the suggestions, now I have somewhere to start. The mechanic said that he tested the fuel pump pressure, he said he didn't think it was the fuel pump.

How do I tell my mechanic how to do his job? lol just kidding.

I guess I'm going to get to work on this I'll report back with good results hopefully.

Thanks again, 3iz

I gave you a systematic was to isolate down the cause. If you follow that, you will find the source of the problem.




78 Corvette Pace Car For Sale-18k mi orig-Florida

You may want him to check the CTS (coolant temp sensor) as well.
Loren
SW WA

Ok,

Has the vacuum been checked? And I think you can check the trouble light by shorting pin A to ground in the OBDI connector. There is a self-diagnosis program in the module which will count the flashing pulses.

Quote

No, I don't believe he can do that. This is a transition year and he has a hybrid with and OBD1 system with and OBD2 plug. Nothing but a professional scan tool will read the codes on this system.




78 Corvette Pace Car For Sale-18k mi orig-Florida

Vaccum? How would I go about that?

I have tried the paper clip idea before but it didn't work.

I took it to AAMCO to get the error reads for only 40 bucks, pretty cheap. When I get them Monday, hopefully, I will post them.

Ok im back,

I took it to AAMCO for a diagnostic ($40) they informed me that they got 1 error code and it was the VGR valve. I had them install a new one ($160) they said it was stuck. I picked it up after work and while I was driving the long way home, excited I had my car back, it started acting up again. Same simptons...what should I do?

CRAP!

I started a new thread cuz my reply wasn't showing up! my bad lol

EGR*

You can't listen to those guys. They know nothing about driveability.

What was the exact code number?




78 Corvette Pace Car For Sale-18k mi orig-Florida

I didn't ask,

I was just happy I had my car back! It was like a week in a half of no car, sitting at home, bored as........I DIDN"T KNOW! jk lol

Imma call'em tommorrow, I'll ask for em'

You took it to AAMCO? Frankly, I'm really surprised that they didn't sell you a transmission. First, I'd take it back, have them put your old EGR valve back on, and give you a full refund, including the diagnostic charge. Take the car to a real shop to have it diagnosed. Post here with the DTC(s) and we'll try and sort this out.
Loren
SW WA

Sorry on the late reply,

I've been working overtime to pay off AAMCO.

The EGR Valve is disinfectant. I saw it myself I could even get the vavle to move an centimeter. So I think it may be a couple things wrong.

I can't get the error code, I'm taking it back tommorow for a free diagnostics and inspection. I WILL be back with either a code or some results.

Thanks for your all's time,

Good news,

I got my car back today and no symptoms on the way home, about a 30 min drive. I had them replace the fuel filter and the PCM sensor ($198 total) because they said that was the last code that would make those type of issues on my car. Here are the codes that I had him write down for me (PO341,PO342,PO1670,PO171)

I noticed the brake wasn't shaking anymore while it was depressed and the car jar just seemed more stable.

Hopefully thats all I have to fix at the momment.

Thanks!

?? I don't understand brakes NOT shaking unless brake work was done?? Confused,

T
_________________________________________

Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

I don't know any other way of explaining it,

It had vibration in the break pedal before it was "fixed" or should I not tell you anything?

I don't want to sound negative, but I'm not convinced that your problems are over. The P0341 and P0342 are cam/crank sensor faults. The P01671 is Quad driver 4 fault. The P0171 is a lean condition. You mentioned in your first post that you had already replaced the fuel filter. The EGR, if in fact, was leaking could explain the lean condition as well as a plugged fuel filter. But....The brakes depend on engine vacuum for the booster to work. If the engine is running bad enough, it can affect the power assist to the brakes. Even make the engine run rougher when the brakes are applied, but this is a result of...not the cause. Just what PCM sensor did they replace this time? I hate to say this, but it sounds as if they are 'throwing parts at it'. Hope, for your sake, that I'm wrong.
Loren
SW WA

So your saying,

The engine's vacuum needs cleaning?

I got stuck in traffic for about a half hour today and drove it a pretty long way with no problems.


P.S I forgot to comment....

I talked to the old mechanic (1st post before AAMCO) and asked him exactly what he did to the car. He said he didn't think it was the fuel punp, the presuur was normal. So he didn't replace the fuel filter. If that clears anything up.

That is good news. Let's just keep our fingers crossed. If you have any further issues, we're here to help, if possible.
Have a great weekend.
Loren
SW WA