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jet
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Sep 16, 2010, 7:01 PM
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Focus down on power
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Ford focus 2001 2.0 zetec dohc 143k mi
About a week and a half ago I went to start my car and the motor bogged down like it can't get air to the motor. It accelerates slowly and has a hard time going up hills.
I checked the intake to see if there was aproblem there nothing, cleaned the k&n filter, checked plugs, wires, coil pack (have two, no difference), replaced the PCV and the hose, checked the catalytic converter and 'unplugged' it, nothing so far has helped. I do keep driving it everyday (because I have to, I know I probably shouldn't), and the problem does not get any worse or better.
On the hwy, when the car is settled at speed, I can feel the motor sputter, but not like a miss. I can also feel it surge and settle back when going up hills.
There is also a very throaty sound coming from the airbox area that sounds like an aftermarket exhaust.
I can also smell unburnt fuel in the exhaust.
I pretty much have to fix this myself and would relly like some pointers or an answer for my problem.
Thanks Jet
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Sidom
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Sep 16, 2010, 11:15 PM
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cleaned the k&n filter Get a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner and clean the sensing wire in the MAF sensor. If this makes it run better, replace the MAF. If you plan on continuing to use the K&N filter, see if you can get a break on the price if you buy in quantity and if so, buy a bunch of them........... You'll be needing them............
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jet
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Sep 17, 2010, 11:14 PM
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I've done both of those- no change. I've been running the k&n since I got it with no problems...what is the deal with that? I've never had a problem with it?
I went to a couple of repair places today to ask about getting a diagnostic. One was no luck since I've done just about all of the simple stuff, the other suggested that it may be the EGR. Would these symptoms be inline with that?
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Sidom
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Sep 17, 2010, 11:41 PM
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The problem with aftermarket oil based filters is it can coat the sensing wire of the MAF with oil which allows debris to stick to it. When it goes thru it's burn off cycle to clean the wire the excess debris gets "cooked" on to the wire & skews the readings.
I'm not sure how you checked the MAF by if you tried another one with no results then we can look past that for the moment. You said you unbolted the cat with no change, so that should rule out a restricted exhaust system. The next thing I would do would be to a take a vacuum reading, if it's low (15-16hg) & shaky I would probably check the timing belt to make sure it hadn't jumped a tooth....
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jet
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Sep 20, 2010, 7:12 PM
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I have one more question about the exhaust. I know it's kind of dumb, but I can't even get a straight answer even from a muffler shop.
How many cats are on the 01 zetec? I know that the one on the front of the motor is one (obviously), but the two boxes toward the rear - I've got the answer that they are both resonators, one's the mufler/one the resonator, etc...
Like I siad though I stopped at a muffler shop that was recommended by the guys at Autozone and they couldn't even give me a straight answer on it.
As far as the MAF, I took it out and looked at the little wires with the diode (?) on it and they are very clean to the eye. I know that I can't touch it so I didn't do anything like hit it with a wire brush or anything. ALl I've ever done is hit it with MAF cleaner.
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Sidom
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Sep 20, 2010, 8:33 PM
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1 cat sounds about right. Before I research this too much, I'm curious why you want to know? You said you disconnect the exhaust & the problem remained, so that would rule out a plugged cat/s.
On the MAF, I just thought of this, make sure you are cleaning the sensing wire & not the air temp sensor. The sensing wire should be in a chamber of some kind & not real easy to see. The temp sensor is right there in the open & can be mistaken for a sensing wire. I had a younger tech do this by mistake once which made me think of this....
You really need to confirm that timing belt.....
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jet
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Sep 21, 2010, 8:09 PM
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As far as the cat(s) I think that there is only one also, but I keep hearing about the 'lunchbox' that is one of the 'boxes' towards the rear of the exhuast. On the foucus fanatics forum, there is a howto about removing it, but I had thought it was about the little resonator on the airbox. I haven't gone back and looked at that thread again like I should have.
The one thing I did not do was start the car when the exhaust was unhooked. I could maybe do that tommorow, but more than likely I would have to wait until Saturday. AT least it is easy to do.
On the MAF, I have sprayed the air temp sensor and the sensing wire evry time that I have cleaned it. I didn't know that there could be anything bad to come from that, but I haven't had any trouble in the past and there was no difference after the problem started. That doesn't mean I havent done something to it though. I had my codes checked again and I still only get the one O2 sensor code, so I don't think that it is the cause.
I haven't really looked into it yet, but how much is involved with replacing the timing belt? It seems pretty straight forward, and as long as I don't need special tools, it seems I could do it in a weekend. I just don't really want to take the front of the engine off with all the pumps and pulleys and whatnot.
I really appreciate your help.
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jet
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Sep 22, 2010, 5:34 PM
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I unhooked the exhaust tonight and ran the car - no difference. So I guess that leaves the timing. Since there are 145k miles I'm thinking about just replacing the belt and resetting the timing. Before I replace the belt, I would like to adjust the timing. Is there a link somewhere with instructions and photos I can use?
I took the cover off tonight to see wht I may in for, and I can do it with just a few more tools.
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Hammer Time
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Sep 22, 2010, 5:45 PM
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Listen to me carefully. This motor requires special tool to change the belt. There are no timing marks. If you don't use the tool and follow the instructions to a "T", you will be pulling your hair out for months to come trying to fix a PO340
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Sep 22, 2010, 5:46 PM)
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jet
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Sep 22, 2010, 7:24 PM
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what tool do i need and can I rent it from autozone/advance or something? I did notice that there werent any real marks on the cam gears or anything, I havent been able to see the bottom end though. I'm stil not sure that this is the problem, I'm going to get a diag on Saturday to make sure. I pulled the cover tonight and the belt really seems to be trailing (I guess) from wear. the teeth are pretty worn on the drive side ( I think) if the belt rotates toward the front bumper. Is this something that I can do over a weekend, or would I be better off letting a shop do it? I am pretty good with tools and most of the work I've done to my vehicles, I've done myself. But I've never done anything like this. I've even thought about getting the timing reset and then switching the belt, but that may be a bad idea on my part, since like you said I may spend a long time fixing it after.
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Hammer Time
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Sep 22, 2010, 7:30 PM
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You won't find those tools at any auto parts stores. These are specialty tools.
Here is what they look like.
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6486.aspx
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Sidom
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Sep 22, 2010, 7:34 PM
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If you can see the timing belt is noticeably worn, it's way past the time to replace it. Luckily this isn't an interference engine but still needs to be done asap. This isn't the hardest belt to do but not the easiest either....
If you are doing it as maintenance you can make your own marks before taking the belt off but any slips up & you're in trouble. The tool is basically just a straight edge that locks the back of the cams in place and keeps them from rolling (another obstacle to cross without the tool). The crank tool is the equivalent of sticking your thumb in the #1 cyl.
I would say if you're unsure on this, the quickest, cheapest (we're talking long run here) and safest thing to do would be to let a shop install the belt.....
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Hammer Time
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Sep 22, 2010, 7:47 PM
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Sidom, check your PM
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jet
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Sep 22, 2010, 8:26 PM
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Is there a way to post pics on here? I can get a pic and give you guys a better idea of the belt wear. It'll be from my phone though.
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Hammer Time
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Sep 23, 2010, 2:27 AM
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Yes, you can post them to a hosting site like Photobucket and link them here but there really isn't a lot of point. If you can see any type or wear at all in the belt, then you have a problem and I will repeat, do not try to change this belt by marking the old one. The VCT solenoid has to be centered in the process or there will be a problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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jet
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Sep 24, 2010, 7:36 PM
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Here's the pics I could get. I'm taking it to a shop to get to the bottom of it.
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Sidom
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Sep 24, 2010, 10:09 PM
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It's kinda hard to tell from those pictures but that bottom one looks like a tooth is coming off the belt. If that is the case this belt needs to be replaced immediately, even if it has no effect on the problem......
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Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 25, 2010, 6:54 AM
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Good work all on this thread. Hammer - I've got to check out this "Photobucket" thing as there are times I plain could post a pic and since the beginning here never was able to force this thing to post my own pics. Yours - yes??
Jet: When in doubt as Sidom has suggested about that belt or almost any engine with a belt - toss it. Many and I think this is one that is "interference" meaning the valves will collide with pistons if it jumps too far or breaks! Can mean total loss of the engine!
T
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Hammer Time
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Sep 25, 2010, 7:46 AM
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No, it's not an interference engine. The Probe is the only 2.0 DOHC that is interference.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 25, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Great - that mean you are just walking if it breaks and not broke too
HT - Is there a listing of which ones are or aren't as a quick reference guide? I know some even quite a few off the top of my head but it's hard to find out on all at least common vehicles,
T
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Hammer Time
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Sep 25, 2010, 11:54 AM
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Nothing I'm aware of. I use Alldata
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jet
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Sep 25, 2010, 7:38 PM
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Ok, took to a local shop to get the diag done. ALL sensors are good. So nothing there. It seems to be an ignition problem. I have put on different wires, checked the plugs- shop checked too, ok, swapped the igniton coil back to stock so its nothing there. We are thinking it's the computer. If I go to a junkyard and can get another I know I need the same code, but would it be a direct swap (plug and play) or would I need to get the next computer reflashed/reporgrammed, or do I need to just do the same to my computer?
We are still not sure of the problem though.
I am so frustrated with this. Nothing we throw at it helps.
Maybe the BFH will help...
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Sidom
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Sep 25, 2010, 10:53 PM
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How much did this diag cost and more importantly how long did it take to confirm all this stuff as good and the PCM as defective??
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