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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 2, 2012, 12:16 PM
Post #1 of 34
(4499 views)
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DEAD ENGINE
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I HAVE A '92 DAKOTA 3.9 V-6/AUT0/4 X 2. I WAS COMING HOME FROM THE STORE LAST NITE. I NOTICED SOME SLIGHT SPUTTERING-OFF & ON-TO THE STORE & ON THE WAY BACK. ABOUT 2 BLOCKS FROM MY HOUSE...THERE WAS SOME MAJOR SPUTTERING...ONE LONG "COUGH-HOLD" & THE ENGINE WENT DEAD. THE TRUCK HAS PLENTY OF GAS-NOT A FUETL PROBLEM. THIS MORNING...I RODE MY BIKE TO NAPA & PURCHASED SOME STARTING FLUID-THINKING I COULD GET IT TO RUN ENOUGH IN SPURTS TO GET TO THE FRONT OF MY HOUSE. I TRIED THE START FLUID TWICE-DID NOT FIRE. I CHECKED ALL THE FUSES (INTERIOR) KNOWING THAT SOME CARS/TRUCKS HAVE A "START" FUSE IN THE FUSE BLOCK. ALL THE FUSES APPEARED TO BE GOOD. I CHECKED THE FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD. THE COLORED ONES ON THE SIDE SEEMED TO BE FINE-NO BLACK-BURNING APPARENT. THE LARGER BLACK ONES I HAD NO WAY OF TROUBLESHOOTING.
I DID KEY SEVERAL TIMES TO CHECK THE FUEL LINE SCHRADER RELIEF VALVE. IT HAD GAS SPURT OUT-NOT UNDER GREAT PRESSURE. I DID THIS 3 TIMES. FUEL CAME OUT ALL 3 TIMES.
THE PROBLEM IS-FROM MY 50 YRS. WORKING ON AUTOS-IS IN THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT TO THE PLUGS. IF THE PLUGS WON'T FIRE...STARTING FLUID IS USELESS.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A DIFFERENT SPIN ON THIS PROBLEM? I SUSPECT-MAYBE-A COIL PROBLEM. IF THE COIL IS BAD...THERE IS NO SPARK.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY WELCOME. BTW...THIS IS MY ONLY VEHICLE.
THANX
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 2, 2012, 12:31 PM
Post #2 of 34
(4494 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 2, 2012, 1:26 PM
Post #3 of 34
(4462 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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I TRIED TESTING THE COIL WITH MY MULTI-TESTER-WITH THE KEY ON. I TESTED BOTH SIDES OF THE PLUG-IN TO THE BTM OF THE COIL. I GOT .O1-BOTH SIDES. BATTERY VOLTAGE IS 12.22 VOLTS.
IS THERE ANOTHER WAY TO CHECK? IF THE COIL ISN'T GETTING AT LEAST 12V-EITHER SIDE...IT WOULD LOGICALLY SEEM THAT THE COIL IS NOT THE PROBLEM. THE COIL PLUG-IN WIRING LEADS INTO THE WIRING WRAP GOING TO THE ECM (?) ON THE FENDERWELL. COULD IT BE IN THE ECM? THERE IS NO FAULT CODES DISPLAYED-ONLY "12" & "55".
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 2, 2012, 1:55 PM
Post #4 of 34
(4449 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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Are you going to finish the testing?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 2, 2012, 1:56 PM
Post #5 of 34
(4446 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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You won't have voltage to the coil from the ASD relay with the ignition on engine off. The PCM turns off the ASD relay when it doesn't detect engine speed. You need to get a high end scan tool to energize the ASD relay, so you can make your checks at the coil. You can also do an ATM test with a the same scan tool to trigger the coil on and off. If you can get the coil to fire by doing an ATM test, but don't have spark while cranking the engine, you have an input problem (no crank signal) to the PCM or a problem with the PCM itself. You need to do some more troubleshooting before playing the guessing game.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 2, 2012, 2:00 PM)
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 2, 2012, 4:26 PM
Post #6 of 34
(4416 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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THE ASD GETS A SIGNAL FROM THE CRANK SENSOR...RIGHT? IF IT'S BAD...THE ENGINE WON'T START...THERE WILL BE NO SPARK @ THE PLUGS...THE ECM WILL NOT RECOGNIZE A SIGNAL FROM THE ASD & NOT ENERGIZE THE COIL & FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT...RIGHT?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 2, 2012, 4:40 PM
Post #7 of 34
(4412 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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It will do all that for a 2 second prime period when key is turned on but won't resume under cranking.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 2, 2012, 6:07 PM
Post #8 of 34
(4397 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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The ASD relay is turned on by the PCM. The ASD relay allows power to go to things like the fuel injectors, fuel pump, coil, O2 heaters, alternator field, and part of the PCM.
If you are checking for power at the injectors or coil, you won't see it with the ignition on after the prime. You have to be cranking the engine to check for power at those things. If your cranking the engine and the PCM doesn't see engine speed from the crank sensor for some reason, the PCM won't turn on the ASD relay therefore you won't have power to the coil or injectors.
You have to check for power during the prime if you don't have power while cranking. If you see power during the prime, but not during cranking, more than likely you need to focus on the input for engine speed.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 2, 2012, 6:17 PM)
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 2, 2012, 11:09 PM
Post #9 of 34
(4369 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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WOULD AN OBD I CODE READER HELP IN DIAGNOSTICS? I'VE NEVER USED ONE. HAVE ALWAYS OWNED CHRYSLER PROD'S-DODGES-& USED THE OB DASH READOUT. DOES THE TRUCK HAVE TO BE RUNNING FOR THE CODE READER TO WORK?
THANX
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 6, 2012, 5:54 PM
Post #10 of 34
(4310 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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MY GRANDSON IS WITH US THIS W/E. HE JUST HELPED ME CHECK THE '92 DAKOTA FOR SPARK @ THE #1 PLUG.
THERE IS NO SPARK DURING CRANKING. THERE IS NO V'GE @ EITHER POLE OF THE COIL CONNECTOR-WITH THE KEY ON. DID NOT CHECK INJECTORS FOR V'GE-NEEDESS IF NONE @ COIL & NO S-P SPARK.
COULD THE ECM ON THE FENDERWELL BE BAD? THE TRUCK HAS ALWAYS BEEN STORED INSIDE GARAGE DURING WINTER STORMS/RAIN & HAS NOT BEEN SUBJECTED TO ANY EXTREME CONDITIONS OR RUGGED TRAVEL.
THANX
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 6, 2012, 5:59 PM
Post #11 of 34
(4306 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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No, it's not needless. we need to know what the injectors are doing and what signals they are receiving. Now, as mentioned before. These things may only power for 2 seconds when the key is first turned on. They are supposed to resume during cranking but that part may or may not be working.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 6, 2012, 6:12 PM
Post #12 of 34
(4303 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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You got codes from the computer, so that means the computer is able to run diagnostics. You might want to start by checking the engine speed input signal. Do you know how to check for cam and crank sensor signals with a volt meter? Are you using a digital volt meter? Do you have a graphing multimeter or an oscilloscope?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 6, 2012, 7:04 PM
Post #13 of 34
(4294 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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DO NOT KNOW HOW TO CHECK CAM & CRANK SENSORS. AM USING A DIGITAL VOLTMETER. IF I'M CORRECT...THE CRANK SENSOR IS ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE HOUSING...BEHIND THE LEFT (FROM FRONT) HEAD WITH 2 ALLEN-HEAD BOLTS (AT LEAST ON MY V-6). I'M NOT SURE WHERE THE CAM SENSOR IS LOCATED.
ARE THE VALUES CHECKED SENSOR SIDE OR CONNECTOR-LEAD SIDE? WHILE CRANKING OR KEY ON?
THANX
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 6, 2012, 11:30 PM
Post #14 of 34
(4280 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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Both the crank and cam sensor are called hall effect sensors. They generate an on and off or digital signal to the ECM.
The voltage of the signal to the ECM for the crank sensor input is either 0 volts (off) or 5 volts (on). Every time a slot in the flywheel passes over the sensor, the circuitry inside the sensor grounds the 5 volt bias voltage from the ECM.
The sensor has three wires: power, ground, and a signal circuit. The sensor is located in between the engine block and transmission bellhousing and uses the flywheel as the sensor's interrupter.
To check the sensor output you need to back probe the signal wire (grey/black) with the connectors plugged together. Connect your meter's red probe to the back probe and ground the black lead to battery negative.
Set the meter for DC volts and bump the starter a few times. You should see the meter toggle between 5 and 0 volts.
If the meter stays on 5 volts the whole time, the sensor isn't grounding the signal for some reason. From there take a 12 volt test lamp and connect it to the battery negative and tap on the back probe like your doing morse code. You should hear the fuel pump and ASD relay going on and off.
If the voltage stays on zero while bumping the starter, either the 5 volts is missing from the computer or the sensor is shorted and grounding the signal wire all the time.
Let us know what you find out.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 6, 2012, 11:43 PM)
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 11, 2012, 2:26 PM
Post #15 of 34
(4245 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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I FINALLY GOT SOME DRY-PART SUNNY WEATHER TO DO SOME TESTING.
I PUT AN IN-LINE CONNECTOR (WITH WIRE LENGTH OTHER SIDE) ON THE GRAY/BLACK WIRE @ CONNECTOR.
THE READINGS OF THE TEST WERE: .09/.10 (NO CRANK) TO .26/.37/.48/.69 (SET @ 20 AMP MARK ON MULTI-TESTER). THERE WAS ONE READING THAT POPPED UP @ 5.43. I TRIED IT FOR ABOUT 10 MORE MINUTES OFF & ON, BUT...DID NOT GET A READING OVER .58. TWO TIMES, THE STARTER WOULD JUST CLICK & NOT CRANK.
I TRIED THE "MORSE CODE" TECHNIQUE ON THE BACK-PROBE WIRE-CONNECTED TO THE NEG TERMINAL ON BATTERY. I COULD NOT HEAR ANY DISCERNABLE HUMM/NOISE AS TO A FUEL PUMP ACTIVATING. I HELD MY EAR OVER THE RELAYS IN THE RELAY/FUSE BOX ON FENDER WELL & DEFINITELY HEARD NO "CLICKING"/BUZZING/HUMMING OR OTHER NOISE IN THE BOX. I DO HAVE A SLIGHT HEARING IMPAIRMENT (NERVE DEAFNESS), BUT I CAN HEAR THE FUEL PUMP COME ON WHEN KEYING-INSIDE A QUIET TRUCK.
WOULD YOU CONCLUDE THAT THE CRANK SENSOR IS BAD-NEEDS REPLACEMENT OR IS THERE OTHER TESTS I NEED TO PERFORM?
THANX
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 11, 2012, 7:01 PM
Post #17 of 34
(4217 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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I WATCHED THE VIDEO TWICE. THE 3-WIRE CONNECTOR HE SHOWED...TESTED ON THE 1ST WIRE IN THE CONNECTOR. THE 1ST WIRE IN MY CONNECTOR IS GRAY W/BLK STRIPE. THE MIDDLE WIRE IS BLACK W/LT BLUE STRIPE. 3RD WIRE IS ORANGE.
MY CONNECTOR IS ABOUT 3-4" BELOW THE DISTRIBUTOR & IS ESCRUTIATINGLY HARD TO GET TO.
IN THE 1st TEST ON VIDEO-PROBE IN 1st WIRE...IT SHOWS 5.13V-NOT CRANKING. I DID THE BEST I COULD TO GET MY "HOME-MADE" PROBE UP INTO THE 1st WIRE AREA-MOVING AROUND TO GET A 5+V READING-WITH KEY ON. THE BEST I COULD GET WAS .09-.10-NOT 5.O.
IN THE 2nd WIRE PROBE...IT VARIED SOME... .08-.31 & UP & DOWN-WHILE WIGGLING-TRYING TO CONNECT.
IN THE 3rd WIRE PROBE...I GOT A 9.84 READING...STOPPING @8.63-WHEN STOP WIGGLING.
ACCORDING TO THE VIDEO...THE 1st WIRE TEST WAS A "REFERENCE CIRCUIT" TEST. THE 2nd (MIDDLE WIRE) TEST WAS A SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT TEST. THE 3rd WIRE TEST WAS THE SIGNAL CIRCUIT TEST.
IN THE 3rd WIRE/TOP WIRE TEST-NOT CRANKING-IT SHOWED A .48mV. MY PROBE TEST SHOWED ABOUT A 9.0V READING!!
ON TESTING-WHILE CRANKING-THE MIDDLE WIRE (BLACK/BL ST) I WAS ABLE TO STOP IT ON 5.00V & ON 4.98V-AFTER STOP CRANK'G.
WHAT MY CONCERN IS...HERE...IS THE 9.0V SIGNAL W/KEY ON WHEN THE VIDEO SHOWED .48mV.
DO YOU HAVE ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS?
THANX
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 11, 2012, 8:07 PM
Post #18 of 34
(4211 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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Made just for you  My masterpiece...well, kinda...lol
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 11, 2012, 8:11 PM)
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 11, 2012, 9:35 PM
Post #19 of 34
(4198 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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THANX YOU FOR THE DIAGRAM.
IN THE DIAGRAM...IT IS SHOWN "WILL BE 5 V WHEN CRANK SENSOR IS DETECTING SLOT. WILL BE 0 V WHEN CRANK SENSOR IS NOT DETECTING SLOT, BUT...IN THE VIDEO YOU PROVIDED ME...THE 1st TEST THEY RAN-IN THE BTM. (#1 POSITION), THEIR VOLT METER DID NOT CHANGE FROM 5+ VOLTS (5.13V). THE NARRATOR SAID THAT THE VOLTAGE WOULD NOT CHANGE...SHOULD BE 5 OR GREATER V'S-EVEN WHEN CRANKING-& DEMONSTRATED IT IN VIDEO.
I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE "WILL BE 0 V'S..." BECAUSE OF THIS. IN THE VIDEO THE NARRATOR SAID SEVERAL TIMES THAT THE VOLTAGE SHOULD NOT CHANGE FROM 5V'S-EVEN WHILE CRANKING. THE V'GE SHOWN WAS 5.13 & WENT TO 5.68-WHILE CRANKING. THE NARRATOR THEN SAID "AS YOU CAN SEE...IT STAYED @ 5 VOLTS-DIDN'T CHANGE".
IN YOUR DIAGRAM IT SHOWS THE "ORANGE" WIRE AS THE "8 VOLT POWER FEED", BUT...IN THE VIDEO...IT SHOWS A ".048mV" (GROUNDED ACCORDING TO THE NARRATOR)-NOT CRANKING & 400-600mV WHILE CRANKING. ON MY DAKOTA-WITH BACK-PROBE-IT SHOWED 8-9V-WITH KEY ON WHICH IS CONDUCIVE TO THE DIAGRAM, BUT...THE VIDEO CONTRADICTS THIS BY A MILE: 8-9V COMPARED TO 400-600mV.
I'M GETTING A MIXED MESSAGE HERE & DON'T KNOW WHERE TO CONTINUE-LOOK SOMEWHERE ELSE OR REPLACE THE CRANK SENSOR ($50-60).
DO YOU SEE MY POINT?
PLS. STEER ME IN A DIRECTION FOR RESOLUTION.
THANX AGAIN-FOR YOUR CONCERN & ADVICE.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 12, 2012, 4:45 AM
Post #20 of 34
(4191 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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IN THE DIAGRAM...IT IS SHOWN "WILL BE 5 V WHEN CRANK SENSOR IS DETECTING SLOT. WILL BE 0 V WHEN CRANK SENSOR IS NOT DETECTING SLOT, BUT...IN THE VIDEO YOU PROVIDED ME...THE 1st TEST THEY RAN-IN THE BTM. (#1 POSITION), THEIR VOLT METER DID NOT CHANGE FROM 5+ VOLTS (5.13V). THE NARRATOR SAID THAT THE VOLTAGE WOULD NOT CHANGE...SHOULD BE 5 OR GREATER V'S-EVEN WHEN CRANKING-& DEMONSTRATED IT IN VIDEO.
The first wire they checked was the computer supply voltage to power the sensor. On that vehicle is was 5 volts. He said that on other vehicles it may be a different voltage. On your vehicle the power supply voltage is 8 volts and shouldn't change while cranking the engine. This circuit only provides power for the sensor to operate.The sensor needs three things to operate. It needs power which is 8 volts, a ground, and a flywheel with slots in it.
The signal wire which the PCM sends 5 volts down is grounded or not grounded by the sensor depending on when the slot passes over the sensor. When the sensor grounds the signal circuit, the PCM is going to see 0 volts. When the sensor removes the ground, the PCM is going to see 5 volts. There is no in between. It is either 5 volts or 0. The volt meter is too slow to see the 0 or 5 volts while your cranking the engine, so the meter averages out the reading.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 12, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #21 of 34
(4178 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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ONCE AGAIN...THE VIDEO SHOWED 5.13V ON #1 WIRE (BTM WIRE). THE NARRATOR SAID "MAKE SURE THERE IS 5V'S ALL THE TIME". I CAN'T GET THE "5.OO+" V'S REFERENCE SIGNAL. IT IS MISSING.
MY QUESTION/CONCERN IS: "WHERE-HOW CAN I GET-A 5.0V SIGNAL? I'M POSITIVE IF I CAN GET 5.O+V'S AT/THRU THIS WIRE...THE TRUCK WILL START.
IF THERE IS NO 5.OV SIGNAL IN THIS WIRE...DOES IT MEAN THAT THE ECM HAS LOST THE 5.OV SIGNAL FROM ANOTHER SENSOR? OR DOES IT MEAN THAT THE ASD IS BAD-NOT SENDING A 5.0V SIGNAL TO THE CRANK SENSOR?
I CAN SEE THAT-ACCORDING TO THE VIDEO-NO 5.OV SIGNAL-NO START. THAT'S WHERE I AM=NO START-NO 5.OV SIGNAL.
THANX
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 12, 2012, 2:56 PM
Post #22 of 34
(4169 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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Done with this thread - take the frigging thing to a pro and be done with it!
Tom
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1dodge1mopar
User
Apr 12, 2012, 3:19 PM
Post #23 of 34
(4163 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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THIS IS A FOLLOW UP.
I RAN A CAM SENSOR TEST. I PROBE TESTED THE GRAY/BK ST WIRE (AS IN THE UTUBE VIDEO). THEY GOT A .O5 (KEY ON) TO A .05 TO 5.14V READING WHILE CRANKING.
MY RESULTS ARE .04V KEY ON....04 TO .09 CRANKING. DOING THE BYPASS (CONNECTOR UNPUGGED) I GOT .04-.12V. I BACK-PROBED THE ORANGE WIRE-AS ON THE CRANK SENSOR. IT WAS 9.01-KEY ON. 9.01 TO 9.05 CRANKING.
THE 5.0V SIGNATURE IS STILL MISSING IN THE REFERENCE WIRE TESTING.
MY QUESTION STILL IS..."WHERE DOES THE 5.0V SIGNAL ORIGINATE FOR THESES SENSORS?"
I FIRMLY BELIEVE THAT...IF WE IDENTIFY WHERE THE 5.0V SIGNAL STOPS/ORIGINATES...& CORRECT IT...THE TRUCK WILL START.
ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS?
TOM GREENLEAF SAID THIS: Done with this thread - take the frigging thing to a pro and be done with it!
Tom I DON'T KNOW WHO TOM IS, BUT...I THOUGHT THIS FORUM WAS FOR AUTO ENTHUSIASTS TO HELP ONE ANOTHER ON AUTO PROBLEMS. I SURELY HAVEN'T GIVEN UP HELPING OTHERS. I KNOW SOMEONE OUT THERE HAS KNOWLEDGE ON THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO TAKE. I AM RETIRED ON $1405/MTH SS WITH RENT OF $750/MTH & THIS '92 DAKOTA IS MY LIFELINE. I CAN BARELY AFFORD TO PAY THE BILLS EACH MONTH-MUCH LESS PAY A MECHANIC $2-400 TO RESOLVE MY ISSUE. I'VE BEEN RIDING MY BIKE FOR 2 WKS. WORKING ON RESOLVING THIS PROBLEM. THANX FOR ALL YOUR PATIENCE & ADVICE/SUGGESTIONS.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 12, 2012, 4:34 PM
Post #24 of 34
(4146 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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Tom locked this thread, so it's dead.
The 5 volts on the signal wire comes from the computer. With your meter connected to either signal circuit for the cam or crank sensor, unplug the connector with your back probe on the harness side of the signal circuit and see if your 5 volts shows up. If it doesn't show up, something is going on with the PCM. Keep watching that video, but don't confuse your self with the power supply being 8 volts. That just powers the sensor. Your really concerned making sure that sensor toggles that 5 volts from the computer on and off. You'll figure it out.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 14, 2012, 4:10 AM
Post #25 of 34
(4115 views)
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Re: DEAD ENGINE
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Unlocked and you could have done that,
Tom
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