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Chevy cobalt computer problem

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May 5, 2017, 12:05 PM

Post #1 of 2 (1142 views)
Chevy cobalt computer problem Sign In

I bought a Chevy cobalt 2L 2008 3 months ago it has a clean title 53,000 miles well maintained by one owner an elderly couple.

The car was running perfectly but one day when I was driving the car began shaking and the locks would lock and unlock very quickly by themselves and then the car slowed down a lot and the speedometer stopped working; it remains at the bottom even if the car is moving.

The check engine light is on and the dash says power steering, and is no longer giving me information about the car such as tire pressure.

I took it to my personal mechanic and he took it out for a test drive and said that the transmission isn’t shifting, he checked the power steering (its electric) and everything looks good on it. He told me he had a car that’s done this before and updating the computer fixed and that I need to go to a chevy dealership to do it.

So I took it to them asked for them to update the ECM, they did it and it didn’t fix the problem I asked for a diagnosis of the vehicle and they said it has multiple problems being:

-No communication with trans control module or with power steering module, has multiple body control codes U101, U102, U1101
So basically the computer isn’t communicating with the other parts of the car; because the diagnostic was so unclear they didn’t even charge me for it; they said they would have to work on the vehicle by the hour unplugging various modules and it would cost $100 an hour. I figure before I fall into this money trap I should ask the internet at large if they know what’s wrong or a possible solution.

It’s just mind boggling why such a new car with so little mileage would have such a severe problem.

Thanks in advanced and sorry for the long post

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

May 6, 2017, 4:21 AM

Post #2 of 2 (1108 views)
Re: Chevy cobalt computer problem Sign In

? This is to say it was fine for 3 months - right? What have you had done or checked prior to this? Best GM my interpretation of what you said is to look for some common plug that is screwed up usually somehow from messing with it that all prior to the dealer.

Who did what that you know of or is this just out of the blue? It was able to be programmed I take it from YOU and that didn't help but would think the car's wiring right there can't communicate back to the car. Just a bent pin or something?

Have you had to jump start this car or replace the battery? If that went all wrong it's a reason.

Other wild maybe: Is the remote fob to unlock the car intact or shows wear or damage to it? Battery in it known any good? Look at driver's door jam for when car was made, month and year should be there so could be mid 2007 = close to 10 full years.

Off the wall: No telling with low mile "elderly" couple have pushed buttons on remote or used unlock button inside too. That 53K low miles could be an incredible amount of 5 mile trips in and out, lock and unlock constantly.

Trying to find some common denominator for this failure before going thru an hourly hunt for something that could do that.

The other common reasons are if aftermarket (especially if aftermarket) something was installed like a remote start or alarm that totally did not come with the car new.

If improperly installed or not cut wires to put that stuff in or the system's way to do what failed being cheap junk usually.

Just so you know find out how old the battery is in this. It's marked and with this history, low miles may have been jumped a lot of times for assorted reason and even might be an original which is way toooooo old now to trust even if it still does crank the engine.


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