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Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 23, 2014, 6:50 PM
Post #26 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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I honestly don't see how a torque converter issue could cause a high idle situation. What is your friend's reasoning for suspecting the torque converter?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jan 23, 2014, 6:51 PM)
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kiwasabi
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Jan 23, 2014, 7:31 PM
Post #27 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Quoting a text he sent earlier:
"There is still the possibility of it being the torque converter. Which if faulty would not properly disconnect the engine rotation from the transmission. causing the car to feel as if it's continuously accelerating".
When I asked him whether that would throw an error code his response was:
"It can if the torque converter fails to engage during drive, causing the car to enter limp mode, giving only one drive gear (4th/overdrive). If it however has worn stator or impellar blades it would affect rpms but not necessarily give a code. It should also be noted that there are no electronics associated with the torque converter as it is mechanical. Rather the transmission might send a code if unable to engage".
I asked that since I haven't been getting a check engine light / error code.
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GC
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Jan 23, 2014, 9:09 PM
Post #28 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Thats a new one on me... If the tc was staying locked, it would cause the engine to stall when stopped in gear, not idle high in park.
____________________________________________________
Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
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kiwasabi
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Jan 23, 2014, 10:39 PM
Post #29 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Fair enough, it's not my realm of expertise. Any other ideas?
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kiwasabi
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Feb 3, 2014, 3:19 PM
Post #30 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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So I noticed something today. The new battery I put in there a couple months ago doesn't really sit still, even with the clamps since the base it sits in is too large. I can clearly see where it has applied pressure to the throttle cable (on the foam that goes around it). Maybe its been pinched there? Just wondering if I should try disconnecting it to see what happens. The computer no longer has a Check Engine Light (that only came on when I disconnected the MAF).
Btw been shopping around for a place to have it professionally diagnosed, just won't have the money til Friday. Thanks again guys.
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kiwasabi
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Feb 3, 2014, 3:29 PM
Post #31 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Of course the only way I can see this making sense with what happened where everything worked OK for 10 minutes after replacing the IAC was moving the battery to make room to work, then when driving the battery shifted again and re-pinched the throttle cable. Of course now whenever I start it it immediately jumps to 2000 rpms and keeps accelerating past 3000, even getting up to 4000.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 3, 2014, 5:45 PM
Post #32 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Did you inspect the throttle cam to see if was all the way on its stop with your foot off the gas pedal?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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kiwasabi
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Feb 3, 2014, 6:59 PM
Post #33 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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I realized this was a stupid question. There is plenty of slack on the line leading up right before the throttle cam, and it is definitely on its stopper. I cleaned the throttle body itself, too.
I didn't do the obvious thing and make sure it wasn't that the IAC valve was a shoddy part, since the car ran perfect 10 minutes after installing it. It was a cheapo $30 ebay part so it's a possible culprit. The seller (dependableautoparts) has like 40,000 positive feedback, but there are definitely some negative ones claiming "it worked for 5 minutes", "it never worked", etc. Not sure how a bad IAC could push the car up to 3000-4000 rpms in park...but it's worth finding out if it's simply a bad new part.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 3, 2014, 7:13 PM
Post #34 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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You probably going to have to get it into a shop that specializes in drive-ability to diagnose this thing. They need to figure out if the IAC is being commanded correctly and look at idle air counts. The IAC is a 6 wire stepper motor design. That means it has three coils inside the stepper motor that are used to control the pintle position. If you see the engine controller is slamming the IAC closed with the engine idling high, you have some other problem going on. They can also do bi directional control to be sure the IAC drivers inside the ECU working properly and IAC reacts accordingly.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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kiwasabi
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Feb 8, 2014, 3:39 PM
Post #35 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Well definitely not the IAC... ran the car without the IAC, it still spiked in RPMs at first, then went down and ran rough going back and forth between 500 and 1000 rpms.
I ended up getting a replacement IAC anyway, I told the guy I thought it was a bad part. Anyway, I put the new one in and absolutely no change. I'll have to let a professional diagnose it...unfortunately still very broke.
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kiwasabi
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Mar 11, 2014, 1:41 PM
Post #36 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Alright called a few mechanics about my issue. A couple are saying large vacuum leak, one wanted to charge $70 to do a smoke test to identify the location of the leak. But from what I've been reading a vacuum leak would cause a rough idle, not a constantly accelerating one? A friend is saying he thinks it's computer related since that's what sets the idle. Since I can't drive the car, instead of paying to tow to and from the dealership he's saying just bring in the ECU and have them test that. Probably unrelated but I wasn't able to get any OBD II scanners to talk to my car's computer, they wouldn't connect.
Also am still wondering if the melted spark plug could've damaged the engine in some way to cause this problem. I really appreciate all of you guys' advice btw, I know this is really dragging on.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 11, 2014, 4:30 PM
Post #37 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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No bucks never helps of course. IDK why you can't get an OBDII reader to fit?
Didn't re-read whole thread but high idle like that isn't going to feel rough as you said in post before and may not?
Check for vacuum leaks with just spray carb cleaner at spots that could leak. Duh - watch out as it's flammable or if that bad plain spray water would find a huge one and surprised you can't hear it. When you hit one idle will change. IDK - try an incense stick, butane long grille type lighter - something either fast with flame or blow it out and the butane should change idle?
Probably already asked but does the "check engine" bulb even work as it should in test mode with just key on, engine off for most? Some if blown screw up the show,
T
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 11, 2014, 4:34 PM
Post #38 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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A dealer can't test the ECU unless it is on the vehicle. They don't have a tester that tests all the circuits inside an ECU. ECU solid state diagnosis and repair is handled by an electronics repair specialist once the ECU has been determined to be the cuprit by the repair shop after all other possibilities have been eliminated . The problem can be narrowed down to the ECU, by testing the circuits outside the ECU first.
Like I mentioned a professional that specializes in drive-ability needs to check this thing out for you. They can monitor ECU data stream information, perform various procedures and tests, and diagnose those suspected systems to figure out the culprit.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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kiwasabi
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Mar 12, 2014, 12:40 AM
Post #39 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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@Tom
The OBD II reader does fit in the port properly, it's just unable to connect to the computer. With the key turned on and the reader connected it's still saying turn car on, not connected, etc.
I didn't check for vacuum leaks with the carb cleaner method because I figured with it at 3000-4000 RPMs and climbing that wouldn't be a great test.
The Check Engine light does indeed work as it came on when I ran the car with the MAF sensor disconnected. Once I reconnected all that back on the light turned off. Btw the car ran rough at about 1800 RPMs with the intake manifold and MAF disconnected.
@Discretesignals
Would you recommend a Mitsubishi dealer or is any shop that is ASE certified in driveability OK? Dealer charges $137.50 per hour but $61 for the diagnosis scan which can be applied towards the repair total. Other shops range from $75-100 per hour.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 12, 2014, 5:16 AM
Post #40 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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? Can you even drive this thing as it is? That alone has to be clearly dangerous if possible to just move it around at all. True, if 3,000+ RPMs you will have trouble with a carb cleaner but perhaps and some are flame retardant like some brake cleaners and can't say a brand for sure that are NOT flammable hitting a vacuum leak would then kill it down.
It's seriously not good to let engine without load run that high at all. Not being able to either physically or electrically hook up to OBDII at plug is a possible problem itself and definitely has to get fixed. That alone if no other problem would prevent you from getting an inspection sticker and car would be rejected for use at all on public roads!
No clue how much or what it will take to make just that work?
Tom
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kiwasabi
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Mar 21, 2014, 12:56 PM
Post #41 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Yes, not safe to drive at all.
I think I've narrowed it down to something going on with the ECU. I don't hear or see any vacuum leaks, the IAC and TPS are new, and I cleaned the MAF and throttle body. I tried doing the "ECU Reset Long Procedure" someone mentioned, and after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, after turning the key to on (but not start) instead of hearing clicking noises like I should I hear a high pitched sound (sort of a ringing) coming from the right front of the car, around the air filter and MAF area. This would also explain why the OBDII code reader doesn't want to talk to the computer... it's not functioning properly. A couple months ago I got a new battery and didn't attach the positive end tight enough, and the car wouldn't start when I was at the bank, so I got a jump. The problem started fairly shortly after that. So I'm thinking a voltage spike may have caused some damage there. Obviously it's not completely fried though since I can start the car. Anyway, obviously I need to have this fixed by a real tech.
ECU Reset Long Procedure:
1. Disconnect battery during your install of "goodies" Negative lead then positive
2. When done reconnect Positive then negative lead
3. Turn key to ON position (not start) for at least two minutes, You will hear clickig noises under the hood
4. Turn key off for ten seconds
5. Turn the car on and let it idle for at least ten minutes, it will feel a bit rough for awhile buut will smooth out
6. turn key off again for ten seconds,
7. turn on and take for a test drive, be easy on the engine for the first 30 miles or so, nothing over 3500rpms.
8. turn engine off for a few minnutes, start it back up, and give it hell. Drive fast, see how she feels. Drive for a bit to see if the installs trigger any codes. If they do, turn car off scan codes, check your install and repeat the process or post codes here for additional help .
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 21, 2014, 4:43 PM
Post #42 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Your right about a battery cable bouncing around with the engine running causing voltage spikes in the electrical system. Most ECU's have surge protection built it, but they can only take so much.
Another possibility is the IAC wiring or motor itself has a short and took out transistor drivers or other solid state devices in the ECU. You really should make sure that the ECU has good powers/grounds and has no shorts or excessive amps flowing in the actuators and solenoid circuits that it controls. You sure don't want to fry your replacement PCM.
I've done many ECUs and other modules and before ever replacing them I always made sure everything else was good. All checks are made at the ECU connectors.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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kiwasabi
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Mar 21, 2014, 6:56 PM
Post #43 of 43
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Re: Car idles at 3000+ RPMs in park, even after new IAC
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Thanks for the response. There's a mechanic nearby me that said he'd check all the ECU wires with an ohm test and one other test, along with the OBDII wires for $50, said it'd take about an hour and a half or so to check them all. I think I'll take him up on it since it'd cost me that much just to have it towed to a mechanic (he's 5 blocks away and can work in my driveway). I'm very hopeful the ECU itself is OK, obviously it's not totally fried since the car at least starts, but doesn't mean certain parts of it aren't bad. It's definitely strange that the OBDII port isn't letting a code reader talk to a computer, so maybe the problem is related. Anyway he should be able to diagnose it I think. I also downloaded Evoscan, which is a scan tool specific to Mitsubishis since I heard Mitsus don't report all error codes without the proper software, not sure if that's true.
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