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Car dies and starts back up
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corvdude
New User
Apr 13, 2011, 5:37 PM
Post #1 of 2
(1741 views)
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Car dies and starts back up
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1996 buick lasabre 3.8L 125,000 miles
Only happens when the car is warm. It can happen during idle or cruising. For the first time (today) it didn't stall out but it wouldn't start after coming out of grocery store. I tried to do some diagnostics but it started up before I was able to learn anything. I'm thinking this is a spark problem (It seems to be an abrupt stall) but I have not been able to prove that. I guess it could be fuel to. I don't have to much more info. I dont have a code reader but the engine light (or any indicator) is not on. I'm going to try cleaning up every connection I can find and hope for the best. Anybody have a problem like this on this model car?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 13, 2011, 5:52 PM
Post #2 of 2
(1727 views)
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Re: Car dies and starts back up
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This is one of the hardest types of failures to find.
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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