I bought a 97 Dodge Dakota V8 with 135k miles on it about a week ago. Twice this week it has had problems starting - It makes a normal "starting" sound, but the engine doesn't come to life (Is there a term for that?) It started eventually after I waited a couple minutes. Does this mean its flooded?
It doesn't happen every time I drive it, but twice in one week I think something obviously needs to be done.

I don't know much about fixing cars but I'm pretty resourceful, so if its not a very complicated mechanical thing I might try to sort it out on my own after doing the research. If I have to take it to the shop no big deal, but I'm curious to learn what's going on so I don't have to be so dependent on a mechanic.

Basically this sounds like an intermittent all crank but not starting situation. You said you didn't know tons about cars so the diagnosis may not be for you.

Generally WHEN this happens you would need to check for spark and fuel/fuel pressure. It's probably not flooding. If you don't know how to quickly check for what is probably lack of spark or fuel as said I suggest you just get some help. There may be codes to help and probably in your situation not worth it - just let the techs take care of that.

If this plain won't misbehave that can be a problem if it won't do it in front of the techs and just takes more time. Good luck,

T
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Tom - "Be yourself. There are enough 'other' people"

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That's called a "crank, no start" and if you want to learn all you need to know to repair a computer controlled car, you'd better start now because it's going to take you a number of years and thousands in tools and equipment.

Here's the test procedure.....

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.










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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

Thanks for your response, if what you suggest is indeed the problem - would it be an inexpensive fix?

The two times this happened, it was after a longer trip down the highway, started fine when I left home, then wouldn't start aftering sitting in a parking lot for 10 minutes. as opposed to running down the street to the store, so if this is a trend I don't think it will have the starting problem when I present it to the mechanic!

I didn't give you a fix. I gave you a test procedure to find out what system has a problem. The car needs to be troubleshooted.










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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

In Reply To

I meant @ Tom Greenleaf, for his idea of what the problem could possibly be and telling me to take it to a mechanic. I saw yours too, obviously you know what you're talking about. Yep, I get it now, no need for the patronizing response.

Churkey: We can't guess how expensive till as Hammer Time just said that this is troubleshooted. If you are in fact up to the fix I still suggest getting help to diagnose the issue - $$ well spent vs tossing parts aimlessly.

You haven't owned it very long so if there's a pattern of when this will act up that observation could help but it's too new IMO for anything distinct yet like only when cold or only when warm - things like that.

This could be simple or expensive till known what and why,

T
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Tom - "Be yourself. There are enough 'other' people"