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96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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PerlJunkie
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Jul 18, 2010, 3:34 PM
Post #1 of 12
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96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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I've got a 1996 Ford E-150 custom van. V8 5.8 liter. Uses XL tires. I ran the pads down so far I ruined the rotor on the drivers side. And the bleeder valve on that caliper was froze up (discovered this AFTER I rebuilt the caliper -- I'll check that 1st next time!). So on the drivers side front, I:
* Replaced the rotor and put a brand new rotor on.
* Repacked the bearings.
* Replaced the caliper.
* Replaced the pads.
On the passenger side, the rotor looked good. Judging from the pad wear on the old pads, the rotor could be slightly warped, but I can live with it (or maybe not based on why I'm writing?!) So I replaced the pads on the passenger side and I went ahead and repacked the bearings and put it all back together again -- same rotor, caliper and new pads.
When I put the driver's side back together, I forgot the washer that goes under the brake line bolt-down to the new caliper. I bled that side fine, but when I went to pump the brakes, of course I had brake fluid EVERYWHERE. I had already cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner, but I did it again, placed the washer where it needed to be, bled the brakes again and everything seemed fine.
Took it out for test drive and it seemed okay, even hitting the brakes pretty hard, but later, it started pulling toward the driver's side when stopping. I checked for leaks thinking the driver's side was leaking again -- maybe I didn't tighten the bolt down on the brake line assembly again, but it all looks good. No leaks and the master cylinder is still full.
I was wondering two things -- could having two different rotors of different thickness cause this pulling? I would think the fluid and the calipers on each side would balance that out. Maybe I'm wrong there. The other thought I had was that all the brake fluid I squirted all over the place on the drivers side was just causing the pads to slip on that side. I can't think of any other reason this would be pulling to one side?
Thanks!
-pj
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 18, 2010, 4:23 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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You know, I was very hesitant to even respond to you. Your repairs are outright dangerous and you have to remember that there are other people on the road that you can kill with that thing.
There is one way to fix that truck and only one way
Replace pads BOTH wheels
Replace rotors BOTH sides
Replace calipers BOTH sides
Replace brake hoses BOTH sides
You should never do anything to only one side of the brakes and you should never just slap pads on old (non-resurfaced) rotors. It never works to try to rebuild calipers yourself either. The cylinders get pitted and you don't have the means to install sleeves so they just fail again.
Don't expect us to help you Mickey Mouse your brake job. I know money is tight but the risk is just to high to do things that way.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jul 18, 2010, 4:25 PM)
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PerlJunkie
New User
Jul 18, 2010, 5:51 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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Well, actually, I'm glad you did reply because honestly I share the same sentiment as you and that's why I wrote. These are the brakes. I will be driving this again and I can't have sudden brake failure. It's got to be right. The only thing I don't have is experience this deep into the repair. On the one hand... it's really not that hard to do. On the other hand, there are a lot of mechanics and physics involved, I think more than most people think. Even without experience this deep into the repair (I've done calipers and pads myself many times), there is something about it -- if you just think about it a little -- that says there's more to this that swapping parts per se.
Honestly, I'm not trying to Mickey Mouse it. Even if I replace the caliper and the rotor on the passenger side, I've still saved a bundle and everything will be the same. I really wondered about that. I mean, if I can save some money, great. But not at the expense of safety. I'll still come out hundreds ahead by doing this myself. And if I *still* don't feel right about it, I'll take it to a shop. Like I said, I've done calipers and pads in the past (always on both sides) and never had an issue. But if I'm hesitant at all, I'll take it to a shop. I have an honest guy in town I trust.
Thanks for your input. I think I'll do the caliper and rotor on the other side as well, and I'll be exactly a like on both sides with rotors already machined to exactly the same size, etc. I mean we're only talking $100 to do that! Rotors were only $60 and I figure it would cost me at least $40 in labor to have them turned, probably more. So, no worries, I'll just do the other side.
-pj
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 18, 2010, 5:56 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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If you still have a pull after replacing calipers and rotors on both sides, then replace the flex brake hoses on both sides in the front.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 18, 2010, 7:09 PM
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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With brakes as Hammer said strongly - ALWAYS do both sides with same parts. Rebuilding your own calipers is or was last time I checked as expensive as one already done with matching pistons! Ya - some can be metal and some plastic and that should be the same left and right. I don't think some pads would work if different pistons on some of those.
Always tend to rotors - either turned or better to toss for new as they aren't that expensive most of the time and last tons longer than even nicely turned ones. The thinner they get the more apt to warp and almost all aren't using tons of extra metal on rotors by spec,
T
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PerlJunkie
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Jul 18, 2010, 7:51 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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If you still have a pull after replacing calipers and rotors on both sides, then replace the flex brake hoses on both sides in the front. B/c U might have uneven flow of fluid to the caliper?
(This post was edited by PerlJunkie on Jul 18, 2010, 7:53 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 18, 2010, 8:14 PM
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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">>B/c U might have uneven flow of fluid to the caliper?<<"
Probably not uneven flow but just good general practice to do them in pairs as well. They can be a trouble spot with locking pressure to brake or here in Rusto-Chusetts the crips rust out and they can blow right off. Best to have them both the same age and if any problems with one the other probably isn't far behind IMO,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 19, 2010, 2:27 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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The reason for the hose is they rupture internally. They are the cause of pulling quite often. The can either swell internally to restrict flow, especially on return which causes the brakes not to release properly or sometimes the hoses rupture the internal liner which can create a flap effect inside the hose and give you uneven braking.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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PerlJunkie
New User
Jul 19, 2010, 2:30 PM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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It's a 1996 and I doubt seriously the hoses have ever been changed. I've had it since 1999 and unless a past repair escapes me, I can say almost 100% the hoses have never been changed, so... maybe it time. :-) I've got 140,000 on the van and it's expected to go over 200,000, so it seems like a wise investment.
Thanks for all the help and confirmation of suspicions as well as learning about the hoses. These are anti-lock, so a hose change isn't exactly straight-forward.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 19, 2010, 2:44 PM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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The ABS doesn't change too much. Just try to change the hose quickly enough to lose as little fluid as possible. I usually pinch off the old hose and disconnect the bottom first. Have the new one ready to put back in place as soon as you remove the old one. If you never let the master run dry, it will bleed much easier.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
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Jul 19, 2010, 6:44 PM
Post #11 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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Perl; Just another opinion; Talk to three people, get three answers. LOL.... Agree with the others about doing both sides at the same time. Where I don't agree; Calipers have an "O" ring in the bore which is replaced when you 'overhaul' it. This 'O' ring seals against the piston. I have always replaced the phenolic type pistons when overhauling. The steel pistons can be cleaned and reused if the surface is still perfect. I was taught to never 'pinch' off a flex brake line as it will damage it, internallly. Of course, if you are replacing it, doesn't matter. As HT mentioned, it makes bleeding much easier. Again, just an opinion.
All of us learn, everyday. We can't expect everybody to know everything. I wouldn't have a clue as to how to butcher a cow. So, what I'm saying, you did a good thing by asking questions. That's how we learn. Let us know how it turns out.
Loren
SW Washington
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 21, 2010, 9:57 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: 96 Ford E-150 - Replaced brakes - pulling toward drivers side now
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I won't pinch a flex hose that's not going to be replaced right away either. It's just to me like driving on a flat tire and hoping it will be ok later. It's layers of rubber for strengh AND be flexible to a point. The failed ones seem to be the ones that do the most twisting in normal use. Some last for decades and some don't? Go figure,
T
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