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89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump.


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Williamc97
New User

Sep 29, 2015, 8:42 PM

Post #1 of 10 (853 views)
89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

I have a 89 Chevy 1500 that started leaking coolant through the week hole on the water pump so I changed it. I also changed my power steering pulley. After that I can run my truck for 5-10mins and it will be almost redline. I've never had my truckoverheat it has always stayed at 210. My thermostat is good because I changed it not to long ago. So I took my thermostat out now because I need my truck to drive to work. So it runs cold but I did notice that it will sometime heat up to 210 and then drop back down with no thermostat. I would think it should just run cold and not heat up. But like I said I've never had this truck heat up until I changed those parts. Anyone who might know anything please help because I'm stumped.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Sep 29, 2015, 8:59 PM

Post #2 of 10 (847 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

Let's start over. What engine is in this? I didn't change spelling for you but think you mean "weep" hole of water pump was leaking (is a vent hole) which means it's bad/leaking and replacement called for. It may not hold pressure anymore now either.


Taking a thermostat out is NEVER called for and can cause it to overheat interfering with normal coolant flow most would read cold on a dash gauge but no necessarily really be running cold and it's not good for the engine to do that up to can kill your engine!


Why did you touch the power steering pulley never mind change it? I don't get it as it takes a puller change that pulley usually for when you might need to change the PS pump or if it somehow was bent or damaged.


Put known working correct thermostat back in this truck now and fill it properly with mix of antifreeze and water and then lets find out what's going on,


T



kev2
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Sep 30, 2015, 6:22 AM

Post #3 of 10 (834 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

thoughts:
wrong water pump - impeller direction?.... did you keep old one?
mis routed serpentine (if applicable)
air in system- unlikely but worth mentioning


Williamc97
New User

Sep 30, 2015, 11:39 AM

Post #4 of 10 (824 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

Yeah I ment to type weep hole.. But first it is a 350 with throttle body, I changed the power steering pulley because there was a bend in the side which made it wobble so I change that when I did the water pump to make it easier, I also checked the direction of the blades and compared them to the old one and they are both the same. The only way I could drive my truck was to take the thermostat out and I need it as a daily driver to work. But today it started heating up to 230 and would stay there for a little while then drop down to about 170. The fan seems fine, like I said I have never had this truck overheat till I changed the water pump. It's not leaking either, I've checked the oil to make sure that was good to.


kev2
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Sep 30, 2015, 12:47 PM

Post #5 of 10 (818 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

More ideas/thoughts

fan is clutch type....PULLING air ? yes fans and serpentine belts can be put on wrong.

Lets do basics- is the pump moving water? - depending on heater hose routing remove a hose and see coolant flow.

Also top hose is return to engine...

Lower hoses CAN collapse - seen as hose flattened out when running.


Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 30, 2015, 1:08 PM

Post #6 of 10 (816 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

Good catch with Kev asking about rotation - trucks are counter rotating vs plain cars.


Quote you ">>But today it started heating up to 230 and would stay there for a little while then drop down to about 170.<<" OK - to me there's your clue and a question: Did it do this ever with the old thermostat? If never new one is highly suspect and think it's real dang close or spot on 195F rated. DO NOT GO TO EVEN 180 AS ENGINE NEED TO KNOW IT'S FULLY WARMED UP! Both are just as wide open and folks get fooled both lowering thermostat's temp rating or taking one out which you did.


What that does is just circulate coolant to the front of the engine, skips the entire back which is boiling but not detected and "F" up a whole engine if not as tough as this one is - that why NEVER do that.
Now this layout isn't usually difficult to know it's really full of coolant mix. Without neat devices/tools just let this type warm up till you just see full radiator drop which means thermostat opened and until then it's air locked. Let cool down with cap on now it will suck in coolant from reservoir. Check and repeat till known full or it will confuse the show. Don't open radiator caps until either or both I like the later on this for speed when fully warmed up/hot or you feel pressure in the upper radiator hose is easiest if good hose it will squish easily indicating no pressure or so low it's ok. Yes you know you can get wildly burned by coolant so if unsure wait till cold.


Once you can believe it's full and add run heater to floor and feel it there and both hoses to heater. They actually feel about the same temp despite giving off heat to interior. If running heater full blast alone brings temps down radiator or thermostat can't flow enough to a known good radiator. More - the fan clutch MUST pull adequate air thru. Most are thermostatic, sensing heat from the radiator passing them and grab harder some don't and just grab all the time. Some fail and just freewheel the fan as it about should when cold which would be normal.


You can dispute this but some will say the real useful life of a fan clutch is about 5 years of use! I find most do longer if good to begin with - lots longer but don't live and drive in ARIZONA either@ 115F with A/C blasting in full sun to boot.


Feel from cold the upper hose staying cold with (by now toss another thermostat in as I don't trust that one now) until it reaches close to it's rating marked on it too the hose warms slowly at thermostat end and on to radiator. You should also feel air above fan is warm being thrown off radiator.


Can't be concise as you have a problem you must solve. Radiator must be good. If thru cap even you see crust or clogs you need a new one anyway. The days of acid boiling them are no longer practical IMO and flushes with harsh solvents/acids IMO again could be harmful.


More! If sealer was used in this many to most can clog the thing up so bad that's the problem now. IDK - when bad enough with sealers you really have to know how to flush all of it out as best you can. Heater would have quit, low ends of water jackets could be full of guck - who knows? It's gotta get out of it.


The sides of the small block Chev since the 50s has plugs, just two near motor mounts. Know which ones if a corroded, rusty problem or sealer used those should come out and nothing will drip out. Use a soft wire or plastic something first up to a coat hanger type of wire to clear it. It will be clogged - not common to stay clear or you may have the wrong one so be correct without question. Can't say for sure but could be 9/16th six pointed plug or slight chance a square and a 12 point wrench or socket will turn a 9/16th square but don't push it as it's not perfect.
This engine with cooling system right (own similar and have owned many dozens) once warmed up stay the same temp without a smidge of temp change unless wild extremes of heat NOT cold weather as thermostat will not open till it gets to proper temp and stay there.


Sorry for the total book/novel. An engine is too important to waste!


T



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Sep 30, 2015, 2:11 PM

Post #7 of 10 (812 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

The only way putting the belt on wrong could reverse the water pump is if either you had the backside facing a ribbed pulley or the ribbed side facing a smooth pulley.

If the backside matched smooth pulleys and the ribbed side touches grooved pulleys it won't run anything backwards.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



kev2
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Sep 30, 2015, 2:57 PM

Post #8 of 10 (807 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

yes .... confusing to explain BUT it can be done.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Sep 30, 2015, 3:00 PM

Post #9 of 10 (805 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

If the smooth pulley still face the backside and the grooved pulleys still face the grooved side, nothing will reverse rotation



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Sep 30, 2015, 3:04 PM

Post #10 of 10 (803 views)
Re: 89 Chevy 1500 overheating after new water pump. Sign In

Same HT - doubt you can and it work at all? Does beg yet another question about the PS pulley now. NOT GM anything I know of but some serp belts are 6 or 7 grooves and when (it happened so sure of this from another shop putting on an item that didn't match) wrong belt will shredded in no time was a road call for me. This was I think ONE model year of some Ford products - if any others I never came across that.


I plead IDK if a generic pulley for PS will also fit other makes so worth checking I guess and be wrong?


T



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Sep 30, 2015, 3:08 PM)






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