|
|
2006 toyota corolla starter, crossed cables, fried fuses, what else?
|
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 5:41 PM
Post #1 of 39
(11530 views)
|
2006 toyota corolla starter, crossed cables, fried fuses, what else?
|
|
|
100 amp fuse blew and replaced. 10 amp main fuse also. what else? the interior lights come on and i hear a click in the glove box but that's it. the toyota corolla has juice in the bat, i hear the click in the glove box but wont turn over i banged on the starter what else can i do also check all the fuses b/c i crossed the jumper cables and fried the 100 amp it's replaced and all fuses under hood checked What you could do is find the starter relay in this picture. When you turn the key to start you should hear it click. If it doesn't click, check the 15 amp AM2 fuse in that same fuse panel the starter relay is on.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 16, 2013, 6:35 PM)
|
|
| |
|
nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 5:51 PM
Post #2 of 39
(11487 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
You reversed the polarity of jumper cables? You created an inductive spike of 24 volts into a 12 volt system. Not good. You need to test for power at the small trigger wire of the starter solenoid when the key is held in the start position. Need to get it to crank over to see what else got wrecked. You blew a 100 amp fuse, so I'd bet there is some other damage. You very well may have fried every module in that car like an egg
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 5:52 PM
Post #3 of 39
(11485 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
and if i did? also a 10 amp fuse blew for the "main" aren't the fuses supposed to protect the system from frying "every module"?
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 16, 2013, 6:37 PM)
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 6:39 PM
Post #4 of 39
(11436 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
Nbs, please don't create a whole bunch of one question posts. If your going to ask more than one question you can edit or consolidate your questions into one post. We don't need 3 pages of posts in one thread. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 6:45 PM
Post #5 of 39
(11430 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
i thought i posted the same question in two different threads. my appolgies for the taboo. sorta new the the chat thing. can you help with the question?
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 6:48 PM
Post #6 of 39
(11426 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
You did create more than one thread. In this thread you had a bunch of posts back to back. I went ahead and consolidated them. You can edit and add stuff to your posts before you get a response, so you don't fill up someone's email box full of responses. Nick has you under control. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 16, 2013, 6:49 PM)
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 6:54 PM
Post #7 of 39
(11417 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
I see, again sorry for the duplicate, i thought the auto forum and electrical and wiring would be two different discussions. anyway i found this site on google where somebody had done the exact same thing. But there was never a resolution to the problem posted. I'm not sure if i fried the starter,alterantor or some fuse or relay other than the ones i checked and replaced.
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 7:06 PM
Post #8 of 39
(11409 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
TAKE OF BOTH CABLES AND GROUND THEM TOGETHER FOR 30 OR SO MINUTES, THIS WILL RESET THE CARS MEMORY, TEST VOLTAGE ON BATTERY WITH VOLT METER & IF IT IS BELOW 12.31V THEN CHARGE THE BATTERY , ONCE BATTERY CHARGED HOOK UP BATTERY LEADS (TO RIGHT TERMINALS) & ATTEMPT TO START CAR, IF ALL YOU GET IS A CLICK THEN LOCATE THE STARTER MOTOR & GIVE IT A FIRM WHACK WITH A HAMMER (SERIOUSLY) THIS WILL FREE UP THE STARTER & WILL ALLOW THE CAR TO CRANK Does this sound right? I did whack the starter but i'm not sure what he means by "grounding the cables"
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 7:10 PM
Post #9 of 39
(11407 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
It is partly right. Did the vehicle crank before you connected the jumper cables to the battery? If not, then you should test the battery first. Remove it from the vehicle and take it to your local parts store to have it tested. You want to make sure the battery is good before you go any further. If you don't have a 12 volt test light or multimeter, you might want to pick one up. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
|
Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 7:15 PM
Post #10 of 39
(11405 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
Is there any aftermarket alarms installed on this car? To answer your other question, fuses keep your car from burning down.....They can protect the other stuff in the circuit...If they blow fast enough
(This post was edited by Sidom on Feb 16, 2013, 7:17 PM)
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 7:18 PM
Post #11 of 39
(11401 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
no it wouldn't turn over, just the click, before i put the cables on backwards. then i crossed the cables, blew the 100 amp fuse and a 10 amp "main" fuse. replced both , check em all under the hood that i can find, and now seems to be as before with lights and windows working but just a click in the glove box, no crank. when i put the cables on correctly it does the same thing. If it's just the battery wouldn't it start when i had it jumped to my truck properly?
|
|
| |
|
nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 7:19 PM
Post #12 of 39
(11400 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
Your car uses electronic modules for the engine, transmission, abs, traction control, hvac, instrument cluster and body. They use a 12v power system with 5v reference circuits for the computer boards under low amperage. Its a reliable system. But when you cross the polarity between two batteries like you did, that doubles the voltage to 24v. You were at 24 volts in excess of 100 amps of current which can be seen by your blown 100 amp fuse. But that fuse was made to blow from 100 amps at 12 volts. The higher the voltage, the lower an amperage to do the same job. Thats why things like your water heater in your house and your clothes dryer use 220 volts instead of 110. Thats why a 110 volt extension cord, with 3 wires in it, is so small yet can power so much yet your 12 volt car has each battery cable as thick as an extension cord. Think of voltage as pressure, and amps like gallons per minute. Typical 12v is like a garden hose, 110v is like a pressure washer. The higher the pressure, the less flow you need. But when that 100 amp fuse blew, it was under DOUBLE the voltage (pressure) so the amperage (flow) was cut in half. So a 100 amp blast at 24v is like a 200 amp blast at 12v and something this was never designed for or protected from. 24 volts in excess of 100 amps is the amount of power capable of welding 1/2 thick steel together. So when it gets to a printed circuit board with micro transistors, capacitors, diodes and such that use circuit lines you have the check with a microscrope, and when they get to relays made to control small amounts of current, its like if you walked over to your dryer outlet and shoved a fork inside it. Is this making sense? We're talking about modules that cost over $1000 apiece just for the part before having to be reflashed by a dealership to even allow the car to start, and even then the wiring harness itself might be so badly damaged along with the thousands of dollars worth of sensors on that car that it could very well be totalled. Thats the doomsday scenario, but I've seen it happen. I've seen mufflers get welded on at 18v with the battery still connected do very serious damage. This is worse. You might be lucky here and just have fried a relay. Perhaps a battery cable. Maybe the battery is the victim. Pray this is the case. You need to do some testing to find out. First, make sure your battery is fully charged and has been tested and verified good. Most parts stores will do this for free. Make sure the connections to your battery are cleaned up shiny and corrosion free. Verify that they are tight and you cannot move the cable on the battery. Using a 12v test light (cheap little thing at any parts store) clip the wire onto your battery ground and place the probe on the small trigger terminal of the starter. Have someone put the ignition switch into the start position. If the test light comes on, you are getting signal from the starter relay to the magnetic switch in the solenoid to engage and it isn't doing so. From there, you would need a digital multimeter to do a voltage drop test which is actually simple and if we get that far I will explain it to you. If it passes voltage drop testing of the power and ground cables, the starter would be confirmed bad and it wouldn't be guessing or wasting money on an expensive part to install the starter. If the light doesn't come on when the key is in the start position, We will be testing the starter relay and relay circuit integrity. Need to get the engine to turn over to find out what if any other damage has happened from this. Please perform these tests and post back with the results so I can guide you further towards a diagnosis.
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 7:24 PM
Post #13 of 39
(11394 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
no but there's an after marker stereo, that seems to be installed poorly. it's my brother-in-laws car. sat for awhile in colorado winter. trying to get it started to sell it.
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 7:37 PM
Post #14 of 39
(11387 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
Ok,you the man, I'll do the tests tomorrow as it's cold and dark here in co. will be sure to post my results. however i believe the bat and cables are fine b/c the lights and windows work when i turn the ignition on. it seems as it was before i screwed up jumping it. Do starters freeze up or go bad after a car sits for awhile? I had a relay go on a dodge caravan years ago and it took forever to figure it out what it was, however it was cheeap and easy to fix. similar ignition response as i'm having now. though the crossed cables definatly was bad and sounds like could have created lots of problems. Seems like these newer cars would have some sort of fail safe for boneheads that cross their jumper cables.
(This post was edited by nbs963 on Feb 16, 2013, 7:43 PM)
|
|
| |
|
Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 7:43 PM
Post #15 of 39
(11383 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
1st thing on the list tomorrow.....pull the battery & have it charged & tested
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 7:48 PM
Post #16 of 39
(11379 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
got it, i'll put the wifes battery in there. would be great if that's the only problem.
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 8:00 PM
Post #17 of 39
(11375 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
If I were you, I wouldn't touch the wife's car. That is all you need is to have problems by messing around with her car. Then you'll be sleeping on the couch. Best to take the wife's car down to the auto parts store with your brother-in-law's battery in the trunk to have it tested. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 16, 2013, 8:03 PM)
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 8:04 PM
Post #18 of 39
(11367 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
got it
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 16, 2013, 8:05 PM
Post #19 of 39
(11363 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
I'm sure the wife is looking over your shoulder...she's prolly thinking, " You got that right, he ain't going to screw up my car too." Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 16, 2013, 8:06 PM)
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 16, 2013, 8:32 PM
Post #20 of 39
(11355 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
she got a good laugh
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 11:16 AM
Post #21 of 39
(11322 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
Ok, the batteryy tested out bad, bought a new one, still the same thing. The starter just makes a click sound from the glove box. It doesn't turn over. What next? check the starter cable with the light tester?
|
|
| |
|
Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2013, 11:58 AM
Post #22 of 39
(11315 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
Yea get your test light & go down the the starter, take the little wire off the solenoid, have someone hold the key in the start position and see if there is 12v on that wire.......More than likely there isn't but it's best to make sure.....If you can safely jump 12v to that little terminal, when you jump it the starter should crank if the motor, power & grounds are good
|
|
| |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 12:24 PM
Post #23 of 39
(11308 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
OK, i pulled off the wire harnes to the starter. hooked up the tester light to the nuetral, turned the key and nothing. no light., so battery has been replaced and visable fuses, yet still wont crank or light my tester light. How do i safely get 12 v to that wire?
|
|
| |
| | |
|
nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 1:32 PM
Post #25 of 39
(11287 views)
|
Re: 2006 starter
|
|
|
I can't get to that box, inside on drivers side. seems the only way is to take the dash off. This 2006 corolla is not mine (bro-in-law) and does not have owners manual. any suggestions on how to access this fuse panel inside drivers side? could be as simple as that. i open a little hatch and can see a bunch of relays but cannot get to them ok got to the fuses under dash on drivers side and yes a 15 amp fuse marked am2 was blown, replaced it, turned on ignition and blew again. sooo there's a short right? where should i go next?
(This post was edited by nbs963 on Feb 17, 2013, 1:51 PM)
|
|
| |
|