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1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Fuel Pressure Problem


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ad1982
New User

Dec 28, 2016, 10:18 AM

Post #1 of 3 (735 views)
1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Fuel Pressure Problem Sign In

Hi there, I tried over at a Range Rover forum and didn't have much luck, so I thought I'd try here:

For a while I've been having a stalling issue, drive my 96 Range Rover 4.0 (110K miles on it), once it's warmed up, things start getting wonky. No rhyme or reason, but it'll stall out. I can be driving on the highway, idling at a stop light, or in park in my driveway, and it'll start sputtering, the oil pressure light comes on, and it'll stall. It'll crank and crank but just won't turn over until it cools down. Once it cools for 20 minutes to an hour, it'll fire up just fine. Swapped some relays to see if maybe one was getting weak.

I ran a fuel pressure test on the fuel rail over the weekend...it sat at about 31psi at idle. It held that the entire time it idled. Once it stalled, I checked and the fuel pressure and it was at about 10 to 11 psi. At this time it would just sit and crank. I let it sit for a couple of hours, put the key in, turned it to the first position, and fuel pressure was back at 31psi. I gain about 5psi when I take the hose off of the fuel pressure regulator, so it at least seems to be functioning. I think I should be seeing 34 to 37psi with a good pump at idle.

My question is...do you know any other items that could be causing these symptoms before I go cutting an access door and replacing the pump? If it was an electrical problem, would I still get that 10psi reading, or would it be closer to zero? I've got some other minor issues that I need to resolve (small leak in the exhaust manifold, etc.), but it stalls out so often while I'm on the road it's become extremely unreliable, and again, only unreliable when the vehicle is warm. I've done things like the crankshaft sensor, etc, but it looks like I'm looking at a fuel problem for sure. Is it difficult to test the voltage at the pump to be sure it's getting proper power?

I've also never, ever heard any pressure fizz sounds when removing the gas cap (the original or the replacement) like I have in all of my other vehicles. It ALWAYS starts fine on cold starts, but if I were to turn it on and run it for a bit, and do this 5 times, eventually it won't turn over, and fuel pressure will be low. Thanks for all of your help!


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Dec 28, 2016, 3:46 PM

Post #2 of 3 (711 views)
Re: 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Fuel Pressure Problem Sign In

First off, you don't cut a hole, you remove the fuel tank. That's a really dumb idea.

You can have low fuel pressure for many different reasons

low voltage
too much resistance in the connections
electrical issue with the relay
restricted fuel filter (won't be sole problem)
bad fuel pump



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ad1982
New User

Dec 28, 2016, 3:56 PM

Post #3 of 3 (707 views)
Re: 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Fuel Pressure Problem Sign In


In Reply To
First off, you don't cut a hole, you remove the fuel tank. That's a really dumb idea.

You can have low fuel pressure for many different reasons

low voltage
too much resistance in the connections
electrical issue with the relay
restricted fuel filter (won't be sole problem)
bad fuel pump


No worries, there's some really good write-ups at RangeRovers.net where most people make the access hole (earlier models had them, but this one doesn't). It's a vehicle that if this doesn't fix it, I'll probably just have it towed away anyway.

I agree with the items you listed. I've done the fuel filter, replaced relays, I was going to test the voltage, but I haven't found where those points are at unless I have to test right at the pump, in which case I'll need it visible, but I think while I'm in there I'm just going to retrofit a pump in there for about $45. Since it runs decent most of the time, the only time I think I'd see a drop in voltage is once it stalled if that were the issue (since it runs fine most of the time...until it stalls).






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