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1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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ba_50
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Feb 21, 2015, 11:39 AM
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1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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When starting the V6, the starter acts like it has a low charged battery but starts the first time and after the engine warms up it starts normally.
The solenoid wires and ground wire were all cleaned and it has a new battery. Could it be that the starter connections are corroded? Thanks. Bob
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 21, 2015, 11:41 AM
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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Curious, but how cold is it where you live? What weight engine oil are you using? Does it do this more often in the winter time?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 21, 2015, 8:04 PM
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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Bob - Doubt the real air temp is the issue where your signal comes from isn't that cold (sorry - mods can see just where the post was routed, S. FL) despite may cold for you personally.
Smile, haven't seen one of these (little) LTD's in ages but the starting items are common to all the Fords of that time no so car specific. All the three battery cables matter both that they are clean and still can carry the power. Takes some testing to know if one (only takes one spot of one) is a problem.
OE cables were tons better than what you can get new but might have to consider that BUT....... Check that battery new, newer or not. Ford was in some mood around then opting for bare minimum CCA (cold cranking amps) and real small batteries on some and a larger one really didn't fit with more power for starting.
You might want to do some voltage drop testing and test that battery as said. Other is if this is low mile, poke around town only driving it might have very high compression from carbon build up even with unleaded fuel that isn't common but it has enough time on it to think about it. Would show as high compression.
If not yet I suggest to about anything to run synthetic oil - it's plain better for all ranges of temps but use what it called for which should be 5-30 and be no problem year round and do change it if a low mile driver still do it a couple times a year no matter what,
T
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ba_50
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Feb 24, 2015, 11:07 AM
Post #4 of 9
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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After charging the battery again it started normally. The voltage dropped off using an outboard motor the next day. I'll have the battery checked next. The plugs weren't fouled either.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 24, 2015, 1:12 PM
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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?? Is this to say you take this battery to use in or for an outboard motor routinely or something?
IDK - Sounds a lot like battery has had it but do load test it and if unknown look for how old it is. With just age and still healthy the cold cranking amps available drop off with time. You do see that as voltage drop when starter is cranking with a known charged battery it really shouldn't drop below 10V for this car and temps you should be dealing with.
FYI - Cold to an engine is less than about 100F even if it sat overnight even vs a re-start on errands for example,
T
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ba_50
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Feb 25, 2015, 10:41 AM
Post #6 of 9
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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It is a new battery.
I put it on a boat motor once and the battery dropped down to 10-11 volts in the next day or two.
Forgot to tell you we are in SW Florida.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 25, 2015, 11:16 AM
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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When did you find it at 10-11V ? While cranking boat or battery just sitting there? This just adds to more questions and how things are checked. I wouldn't use a car battery in general for use in a boat or perhaps you were just running just an engine not in the boat or water at all?
That matters as new or not batteries do have a failure rate and if this was either mishandled (happens too much) before you even bought it or bouncing around in a boat it would harm it. They make batteries for boats/RV that tolerate both more trauma and running low on charge or combo for specific reasons.
Need to charge battery first and test it. Then if even your own charger with battery disconnected charges up and drops to this 10-11V all by itself it's defective or harmed - but should be a warranty swap if new.
General: Battery voltage should show if all things perfect (they never are) 12.6 but good if 12.2> 12.6 IMO. If lower check your meter on something else to verify your accuracy.
When running your car should show voltage higher like about 13.5 > 14.5 or close to that but never be below 13V while engine running except maybe for a quick spike down like a high draw item is used and your meter is fast catch it before it catches right up to cover that.
It isn't (you say) behaving when first start which we'll call cold start. That's when taking reading will mater - first before you touch anything and how far it drop while cranking engine then when started if it does come back up as said kinda shows charging system is working and battery is bad or you might have a slight parasitic drain taking it down.
So, it's testing and when to declare it good or bad. If you took it in my bet is they would charge it and right away would test good but it matters when it's in the car more,
T
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ba_50
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Mar 3, 2015, 11:30 AM
Post #8 of 9
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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The new battery was faulty. Glad I didn't go the starter route. Very hard to get to. Thanks
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 3, 2015, 1:50 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Re: 1985 ford ltd starter drags 1st time
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They happen and messes you up because it's new.
In the future try to buy batteries that are clearly labeled or ask how old it is new! You might be surprised that many are close to a year of just sitting which isn't good for them.
Cheap outlet but any place worry me about handling the dang things along the way too. Batteries don't like being dropped OF COURSE, tipped over and banged around.
If you want or need to use a battery for assorted things consider a jumper box - many will come with 12V power port(s) and really meant to boost start a car but the high end ones are huge bucks. They make lighter, smaller ones still handy and those can handle being tipped over, upside down and take some abuse as they are a gel cell not liquid inside,
T
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