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01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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laursamp
Novice
Aug 29, 2014, 2:27 PM
Post #1 of 12
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01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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Planning to get my 01 Dakota tuned up, it has 135K miles on it, completely stock, and I'm not sure of past service. Besides new spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, what else should I look into getting replaced?
Also, the oil hasn't been changed in YEARS. Its all sludge. What can I use to clean out the oil? I'm read about using an engine flush but then someone said to use Seafoam. I need a really good, heavy duty cleaner; there's a lot of thick oil buildup.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 29, 2014, 3:09 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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Good luck trying to change all that stuff. The only thing it actually has is the spark plugs.
You brush over the fact that the engine is all sludged up like it a minor thing. That fact alone could cause you to replace the motor. You should forget about any of those so called engine flushes. that is about the worst possible thing you could do.
That sludge is doing the least damage right where it is right now. If you put any kind of chemical in there that even starts to break up and dissolve that stuff, it will start circulation through the system and plugging up very small passages that are critical for lubrication, quickly leading to engine failure.
The ONLY cure for a sludged up engine is to completely disassemble it and boil out the block.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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kev2
Veteran
Aug 29, 2014, 3:46 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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As sludge is there- no one to blame but...?
before removing to rebuild it lets try a hail mary- worth a try...
Get 1 can risoline oil detergent - available everywhere- walmart etc- dump that into engine crankcase...
spend a few days running errands - we want lots of engine operating time - and we want the engine at operating temp...
then lets change the oil and again 1 can RISOLINE - about 2500 miles change it again and advise on oil condition.
Tune up - anyone selling a "tune up" in todays automotive environment should be avoided, or seriously questioned.
You want to concentrate on that oil issue - Allso get a free scan available at most auto parts stores - FREE - post any codes they mention copy them down and post. Someone will advise.
get back to us after those suggestions;
If you are determined to replace spark plugs- use the OEM recommend plug NOT bosch or some other parts store special.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 29, 2014, 4:36 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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I totally disagree with any sort of detergent in the engine. Once that stuff starts breaking up it will plug oil passages everywhere.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 29, 2014, 7:22 PM
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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Sludged up: Just change oil now ahead of schedule and let new oil slowly remove sludge. Will not fix damage but slow so chunks don't take it out instantly. Enough miles and sludge you should probably plan on needing an engine,
T
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laursamp
Novice
Aug 29, 2014, 7:25 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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I've had codes read about 2 weeks ago and it was a bad O2 sensor. Guess I'll just get new spark plugs and call it a day.
This truck isn't a daily driver. We use it to move mulch, furniture, etc. I guess we could look into an engine rebuild down the line but for something that's parked most of the time, that isn't a viable option right now.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 29, 2014, 7:35 PM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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Just change the oil and plugs. If engine is quiet the detergents of new oil is enough. Chance is to keep it at least from the big bang. I wouldn't redo a sluded up engine but seek a used one that isn't but you aren't there yet,
T
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laursamp
Novice
Aug 29, 2014, 7:43 PM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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P1071. system lean bank 1. I had a power steering switch fail and my mechanic thinks that some of the fluid could have messed up the O2 sensor since the exhaust has all been replaced.
These are the spark plugs I'm looking at getting E-bay link deleted ................. not allowed
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Aug 30, 2014, 4:15 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 30, 2014, 4:43 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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WOW, where do I start?
You don't have a P1071, you have a P0171.
That is a lean exhaust code and likely nothing to do with an 0/2 sensor although the sensor has to be tested to make sure it is capable of reading rich. You need to find the reason for the lean condition.
Now, your spark plugs.............
You would be paying $27 for 8 copper spark plugs and $10.43 in shipping to buy these from E-bay. This comes out to close to $5 each for a plug that can be bought locally for about $2 and you don't even know if it's the right plug for your vehicle.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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kev2
Veteran
Aug 30, 2014, 7:03 AM
Post #11 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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Again I suggest you deal with the sludge first..
I am a optimist My colleague HT is correct in his concern for sludge breaking up - The RISOLINE is not as aggressive as some of the FLUSHES. As tom suggested change and change oil often this is along that line of thinking, not a quick fix or a one time treatment but before we condemn engine its worth a try.
Codes - forget the misinformation that it is just an emissions 'thing' the entire engine management is tied into this check engine light.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 30, 2014, 10:14 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: 01 Dakota 4.7L Tune Up/Engine Flush
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Ditto Kev2. Not familiar with Risoline or used it so can't expound. Have knowingly bought sludged engine that still had all signs of good chances and new oil along with it's additive to clean (detergents) did it. Slow and steady get's caught in oil filter over time. Known bad to start then known solved but chancy either way. Later (year or so) valve covers off and not even coffee stains. No delay in oil pressure upon cold starts, no ticking, tapping or engine noise so worked.
OP: Note new good rated oil exact still for this truck you should see clear oil just changed on dipstick. If working it will look dirty in a couple day's of use and should as it cleaning already. If it never got oil dirty it wouldn't be removing sludge/dirts/shellac if so would it?
Equate that with dirty laundry all somewhat greasy clothes do you want the waste water clean or with the dirt you wanted removed? Same idea.
Damage is done if real mechanical wear that doesn't heal just stops getting worse right then. Small ports carry oil under pressure to an order of most important and frequently up to just valve covers where oiling/lubing is passive (most or many) and must drip back to oil pan for pick-up again. If that screen is clogged up it will be game over in no time as in fast flush would clog it tight like no oil at all - done with that engine if run much at all and IMO not fixable.
That was my approach for vehicles I wanted to restore that all other aspects were right but neglected oil changes known like yours but I took the gamble on known engines old already but right otherwise.
How long does an engine last no matter what you do is still a mystery sometimes. Wild care for even mega miles sometimes one just decided to bust something without provocation and wipe it out at once. Rare on that with care but can on any.
I know from cleaning engine parts with strong solvents what fudge I'm removing that if it was to return if it even could too quickly would clog the show up to and have seen full valve covers such that oil couldn't return to oil pans at all!
You just want it to be problem free as possible vs my intentions but the same neither wanted a total failure because of sludge and I still say the slow road but do it,
T
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