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chas
User

Dec 4, 2016, 9:31 AM

Post #1 of 12 (319 views)
cold start idle Sign In

gearheads, 94 toyota 22re EFI cold start idle is too high. The air screw adjust on the TB seems to be working ok. When warm the air screw on the TB is about 1 1/2 turns out. The idle is good when warm but idles too high when cold. When the screw is turned in the engine will stutter then stall. If i recall there is an adjustment inside the IAC bowl where the coolant passes through.
Is this where to adjust the cold start idle or is there another way to adjust the cold start idle?


Tom Greenleaf
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Dec 4, 2016, 11:36 AM

Post #2 of 12 (305 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

How cold are we talking and how high is the idle while cold you don't like. Mostly leave it alone and think about cleaning up throttle body if anything,


T



Discretesignals
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Dec 4, 2016, 5:23 PM

Post #3 of 12 (298 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

There is no adjustment for the cold air idle. That is controlled by coolant temperature and a wax pellet. The cold air valve is set at the factory and doesn't require adjustments. With the engine fully warmed up and a tachometer connected, turn the idle adjustment screw until the idle is around 750 rpm with the transmission in park.

If you have vacuum leaks and/or the power steering or ac idle up solenoid or valve is active that is going to mess up your idle adjustments and will make your engine idle higher.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


chas
User

Dec 4, 2016, 7:49 PM

Post #4 of 12 (291 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In


In Reply To
tom>>>>>How cold are we talking and how high is the idle while cold you don't like. Mostly leave it alone and think about cleaning up throttle body if anything,>>>>>>

im on the so cal west coast. Temp is in the 40s and maybe 30s at night. Idle stone cold is maybe 1500rpm. Yeah, i might have to remove the TB and clean it up. Maybe carbon and dirt in the TB and IAC again. It's been awhile.

discreet>>>>>There is no adjustment for the cold air idle. That is controlled by coolant temperature and a wax pellet. The cold air valve is set at the factory and doesn't require adjustments. With the engine fully warmed up and a tachometer connected, turn the idle adjustment screw until the idle is around 750 rpm with the transmission in park.
If you have vacuum leaks and/or the power steering or ac idle up solenoid or valve is active that is going to mess up your idle adjustments and will make your engine idle higher.>>>>>

Im just a little concerned with too much fuel consumption and the cold start injector maybe to rich loading up the CAT. Yes, i understand the idle is preset and no cold start adjustment like a carburator. When the engine is warm it idles ok. Just too high when stone cold. No P/S. Manual steering. No vacuum hose. That port on the EFI for the P/S has a plug on it. Yeah, i did bump up the idle on the A/C solonoid a little. Ill check the AC solonoid adjustment. That might be it.
I dont think it has an air leak because the air screw on the TB works well. I'll look around some more and check the AC solonoid screw.



(This post was edited by chas on Dec 4, 2016, 8:05 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
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Dec 4, 2016, 9:48 PM

Post #5 of 12 (263 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

1500 cold idle is about normal. Do check what DS mentioned and it should be at around 700 warmed up some but not 1500 for all that long at those temps still moderate.


Understand worried about rich mixture loading up cat with fuel. It can for a grace period and will burn than off when used. If all you did was start it cold all the time and not ever drive it that would cause a problem.


FYI - while running that high it's heating the converter up fast to burn off extra expected,


Tom



Hammer Time
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Dec 5, 2016, 5:52 AM

Post #6 of 12 (255 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

An over rich mixture would be bringing the idle speed down, not up.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
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Dec 5, 2016, 6:36 AM

Post #7 of 12 (249 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

Jeez - I see it was worried about but probably not really happening? About anything will raise idle for couple/few seconds to longer for the cold start year round. Not just my own - anything I've just moved or driven.


Need to count real seconds it does this. As of now not sure it's a problem at all by itself,


T



Discretesignals
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Dec 5, 2016, 5:22 PM

Post #8 of 12 (228 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

1500 rpm is pretty normal for a cold idle. If the rpm never came down to ~750rpm as it warmed up, then there is a problem.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Dec 5, 2016, 5:25 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
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Dec 5, 2016, 7:15 PM

Post #9 of 12 (216 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

? Quote">> No P/S. Manual steering. No vacuum hose. That port on the EFI for the P/S has a plug on it. Yeah, i did bump up the idle on the A/C solonoid a little. Ill check the AC solonoid adjustment. That might be it.
I don't think it has an air leak because the air screw on the TB works well. I'll look around some more and check the AC solenoid screw.<<"


Something is a typo or messed up here? They don't use a port to PS (power steering) for this and I think ALL had PS and brakes which did have a port for vacuum. Reason idle rises for PS or A/C is to cover extra load. You don't adjust that it's automatic with a wire to PS high pressure hose if any and just sensing clutch on A/C is empowered or plain low idle computer covers low idle because of loads by itself. That solenoid isn't - it's a cushion I think so loss of higher idle to low with A/C on and off isn't so abrupt.
Screw to Throttle body isn't to adjust idle and not an indication of no vacuum leaks. If anything a base setting to leave alone.


Sounds more like the car's power brakes are blocked off and probably horribly hard to stop. Cars with no PS if so and bet this was made for export without it would have a gear ratio reduction or larger steering wheel or both. If not horribly hard to steer. Same with no power brakes not sold to the US that way.


Observations are confused or this car is not fit for road use in California where signal comes in from if registered in that state. TMK fine to use a car for a period of time out of a home state or country for varied amounts of time - visits, vacations, school etc., but not forever,


T



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Dec 5, 2016, 8:17 PM)


chas
User

Dec 5, 2016, 8:10 PM

Post #10 of 12 (210 views)
Re: cold start idle, 94 Corolla Sign In

? Quote">> No P/S. Manual steering. No vacuum hose. That port on the EFI for the P/S has a plug on it. Yeah, i did bump up the idle on the A/C solonoid a little. Ill check the AC solonoid adjustment. That might be it.
I don't think it has an air leak because the air screw on the TB works well. I'll look around some more and check the AC solenoid screw.<<"


tom>>>>Something is a typo or messed up here? They don't use a port to PS (power steering) for this and I think ALL had PS and brakes which did have a port for vacuum. Reason idle rises for PS or A/C is to cover extra load. You don't adjust that it's automatic with a wire to PS high pressure hose if any and just sensing clutch on A/C is empowered or plain low idle computer covers low idle because of loads by itself. That solenoid isn't - it's a cushion I think so loss of higher idle to low with A/C on and off isn't so abrupt.
Screw to Throttle body isn't to adjust idle and not an indication of no vacuum leaks. If anything a base setting to leave alone.<<<<<

i have had 3 of these 22re. 89 to about 94 was pretty much the same. Some subtle changes. I have one 94 22re is a little different on the VSV for the EGR. One 94 has the VSV on the valve cover. The other has a temp coolant sensitive VSV under the TB. The 89 22re LB DLX i had was full power. The P/S had a vacuum port to the P/S from the EFI pentium just above the thermostat. I have had 2 94 22re with P/B, AC and no P/S - manual steering gear. Here is a link for toyota manual and P/S steering. Not all 22re pickups were P/S. Maybe the DLX models were full power.
P/S


Links deleted ........................ not allowed



(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Dec 5, 2016, 8:59 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Dec 5, 2016, 8:34 PM

Post #11 of 12 (188 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

OK - Sorry I messed up with looking at too many windows on this all at once.


Trucks do come all differently than so called "cars" and would come without PS or sometime power brakes - depending.


I'll leave the thread alone now but some comments left. Power steering has nothing to do with engine speeds except some (not even all) that sense high pressure in a hydraulic line then a signal to make RPMs go up that you don't notice to cover that load.


Please - no offense and liked these for what they were. ALL CAPS - THESE ARE CLOSE TO THE MOST RUSTED VEHICLES EVER PUT ON EARTH! TOTAL RECAL AND FOLKS GIVEN NEW VEHICLES NO MATTER WHAT SHAPE OVER KNOW WILDLY DANGEROUS RUST PROBLEMS, FRAMES, BODY PARTS QUICKLY FELL RIGHT OFF AND SO ON.


This is NE coast of US where things always rust - these were so bad absolutely none exist here that old. They could and do exist in total rust free areas.


For this reason I knew of none even 2 years old without fatal rust due to body and frames.


Mechanically this still doesn't add up. All injected engines from those years still were automatic to adjust idle speeds or had a mechanical problem as mentioned.


Yes - some carb vehicle did use a push out solenoid for A/C held idle up while A/C requested was mechanical and adjustable. None were fuel injected ever noticed by me.


Lost for specifics for this truck as it failed miserably around where I am never saw one stay on the road long enough to keep here,


T



chas
User

Dec 6, 2016, 1:48 PM

Post #12 of 12 (162 views)
Re: cold start idle Sign In

ok, ill just have to get my butt in gear and do the the TB/IAC cleanout thing. I was just asking for some more advice because my vehicles are older, aging, always something and can be a PITA sometimes because of their age. Thanks, Ill get back later.






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