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Mazda B2300 Running issues


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Norfire
Novice

Jul 22, 2014, 2:37 PM

Post #1 of 7 (3158 views)
Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

I have a 95 Mazda B2300 extended cab. i know its pretty much the same as a Ford ranger. this is more a question than an answer.
I had a cracked head. Replace it.
Replace spark plugs, wires, timing belt, EGR, IAC, TPS, crank sensor. another sensor just under the power steering, Coil pack, fuel pump and Filter, oil Pressure switch. Mass Airflow sensor. Fuel pressure regulator and injectors. and vacuum lines. none have holes in them. the truck still runs like it is skipping. it also has loss of power but no knocks or leaks. it has good compression. runs for about 15-20 min then shuts off basically like it chokes its self out. spits and sputters then dies. anything else anyone can think of would be greatly appreciated. If there is any other information you need please let me know I've tried to list everything done so far.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 22, 2014, 3:03 PM

Post #2 of 7 (3146 views)
Re: Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

Easy making parts stores happy! Chokes out when warm? IDK, check for exhaust restriction while this happens,


T



Norfire
Novice

Jul 22, 2014, 3:19 PM

Post #3 of 7 (3142 views)
Re: Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

NO exhaust restriction. The exhaust flow is good. I was reading something about the ICM. It says check the lower intake side which I didn't see anything there is there another location where I could find it or does mine just not have one.


Norfire
Novice

Jul 22, 2014, 5:40 PM

Post #4 of 7 (3129 views)
Re: Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

Ok not sure if I even have an ICM. talked to a few and they said they stopped the ICM on the 94's said 95's have a PCM which they said is located on the Passenger side behind the cover on the side near the door. if this is what they are talking about. then this could be the issue. As about a month ago it was beeping when I was driving. I took it in and they unplugged it and tested it said it was fine but it hasn't beeped since tho. could it have failed and not beeped at all?


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 22, 2014, 8:33 PM

Post #5 of 7 (3115 views)
Re: Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

? Not sure what "beeping" you are talking about.


Quote from first post "it has good compression. runs for about 15-20 min then shuts off basically like it chokes its self out. spits and sputters then dies."


That to me means it runs fine and when or as it warms up fully has the problem. How did you determine it's not exhaust? Does it start right up or nothing right away?


Try for codes for a '95 and see what you can get but I'm not convinced of a problem yet with converter and exhaust flow. You would have to catch that when this happens. If you find a manifold actual vacuum line/hose and "T" in a hose for a gauge you might see vacuum readings while this happens dropping off. If it starts right up and fine you'll have to catch it when it happens.


Vacuum with no/very low load is high, like perhaps around 18Hg on a gauge and the same at about 2,000 RPMs (no load) and if less indicative of a restriction in exhaust. If chunks a flipping inside converter they may correct. If just clogged up heat may slowly tighten up the flow and it would throw off all controls not knowing what actual load on engine is and die out or could.


What is the fuel pressure when it happens?


You aren't getting anywhere tossing parts at random. What is happening or better yet what is NOT happening WHEN it happens?


Check as possible for spark and fuel all along and when it dies. May take some creative running of test equipment if only while driving and will restart soon.


What caused the head to crack to begin with? Lots missing from this history so far except a lot of parts that were not the problem,


T



Norfire
Novice

Jul 23, 2014, 4:27 AM

Post #6 of 7 (3106 views)
Re: Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

Ty for the reply. I really do appreciate it vm. I know its like shooting into the dark on this thing. ill try to answer what question i can in the order you asked.

The beeping or sound i heard came from the passenger side door area. there is a box. behind the cover when it was upplugged the beeping stopped we plugged it back in and now it hasnt done it since.

for the exaust we had the shop run a test. it runs for a good 20 minutes and they said nothing is restricting it even when its starts to die. its spits and sputters but not very long just kinda like a second or 2 and then dies.

It starts up right away no problems. i don't have any issues with restarting it or even. starting it up cold.

putting the code reader on and we haven't received even 1 code on this since replacing parts.

Ill look gain for the Manifold Vacuum as you suggest just to check again tho.

The Fuel pressure test i had the shop do when they replaced it. they said its fine.

i know tossing random parts in doesn't do anything but cost me. Its why i am so frustrated.

when i replaced the Head i had them do a compression test and check fuel and spark.

without a code they keep wanting to throw parts at this thing. Im tired of throwing money into this.

wish i could be more help i feel like a tard.
The no code is really whats making me upset.
I dont know where to go from here. replacing so many parts only to have it still sitting in my yard is taxing.
I took it for a drive today. I can pick up speed but its slow to do so.
Will continue to check for vacuum leaks tho.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 23, 2014, 4:40 AM

Post #7 of 7 (3100 views)
Re: Mazda B2300 Running issues Sign In

OK - you don't seem to have long to see what it's missing when it does this. Makes it tricky at best.


Not sure your willingness to wait for it with hood open with a spark tester that lights in line and a fuel pressure gauge on it and NOT leaking!


Test for exhaust seem enough only unless a chunk of material can somehow flip to total blockage just long enough to kill it - not so likely IMO.


So far the clue is time and it's warmed up to do it and actually too bad that it starts right up as checks wouldn't show. Codes pre OBDII are not so helpful and miss plenty so you have to find it by yourself or someone does,


T







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