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Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines


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noside369
New User

Mar 19, 2015, 9:01 PM

Post #1 of 6 (21446 views)
Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines Sign In

Hi,

I need some input regarding my vacuum line connections. I have a diagram of my car's vacuum connections, but I am uncertain to connect the VCV (vacuum control valve) middle port (BLUE line) to which port if it is on the port circled in ORANGE or YELLOW.
(diagram moved as it is too big and put in spam bin temporarily for view)


Those ports with same circle color are ports interconnected.




(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 20, 2015, 4:43 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 19, 2015, 11:01 PM

Post #2 of 6 (21435 views)
Re: Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines Sign In

That's hard to see so wide but yellow and orange circles you made are the same thing just another view. Doesn't appear like two of them so what's the question?


If this was missing everything this diagram is inadequate to me anyway. Better for looking up part #s than for where each is going and for what,


T



noside369
New User

Mar 19, 2015, 11:15 PM

Post #3 of 6 (21428 views)
Re: Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines Sign In

The part # reference with the diagram only shows the part name and price. Like the one I put a BLUE line (17303C - No.2 / 88691D) is PIPE SUB-ASSY, AIR, No. 2 but can't find any reference where it will connect to which port. I have been googling around for days for reference but to no luck (yet) and my only reference is this: http://www.toyodiy.com/...100R-AEHDS_1708.html


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 20, 2015, 12:46 AM

Post #4 of 6 (21418 views)
Re: Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines Sign In

I'm never going to find which exact spot each item is going to
in that diagram. What are you looking at in the car
in front of you? Are parts missing, broken, been messed with,
accident or perhaps other alterations over time?


It will be near impossible at the age without knowing exact history of
this specific car and where it's original place of destination was. Your protocol
shows Indonesia to moderators and could be wrong. It would help a little
but not totally to know where the car came from or as said place of original
destination when new.


Reasons are all over the place. Cars and especially Toyota was quick and ready to
make cars to the place it would be sold and that country's requirements includes fuel available,
emission controls, safety features, lighting requirements, glass, options available or deleted plus tons more
including right or left hand drive.


It's going to be hard now even Toyota is unlikely to be tons of help just because it's old. If sold to the
US or Canada it would be better archived IMO.


*********************
We aren't supposed to allow links but it is or was if removed just a parts listing. If you know you need a part and have
it available new put it where it was. Seems your asking means you don't know so begs the question,
then what isn't working properly for this engine that you are doing this at all?


You may have to figure out what item it controls for what purpose. Most are for a real reason and can't just
plug off at will by model year 1993. Smile, it's much too new still and Toyota like most doesn't waste
"things" that aren't needed,


T



noside369
New User

Mar 20, 2015, 1:16 AM

Post #5 of 6 (21414 views)
Re: Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines Sign In

This is the model of my car: 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA (EE100R-AEHDS) - XL GEN SED RHD 2E ATM 3FC (Right Hand Drive). Since I am in Brunei (neighbor of Malaysia), my car vacuum setup (pic on the previous post) is different to SG, MY, NZ and Thailand setup due to emission... Previous owner messed/modified the vacuum connections and I made changes based on the diagram.

The problem is the car consumes much fuel (7km/L), sluggish, vibration when AC is on and sometimes on idle. I have changed the spark plug, wires, distributor cap and rotor as well but still there is slight vibration when idle/drive specially when the AC is on. fuel consumption is still the same at 7km/L and still a bit sluggish.

I now replaced the bimetal valve (part 25810) since the previous one was broken and the vac hose was disconnected. And now hooking up those hoses to the ports based on the diagram after I replaced the broken valve. Only the VCV (part 23275) that I cannot figure out where to connect the middle port. The diagram is limited and did not state to where it connects. I am just trying my luck if somebody have worked out a similar setup with VCV for AC control.

Thanks


(This post was edited by noside369 on Mar 20, 2015, 1:17 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 20, 2015, 3:50 AM

Post #6 of 6 (21409 views)
Re: Corolla '93 2E (EE100R) Vacuum Lines Sign In

I've got to remove the original diagram to another spot so I can read this and others too it's stays way too wide
to follow even script now. I get the idea - country of original destination is going to be a problem on top of it being messed with you are down to a lot of guessing.
So, you found a "broken" bi-metal valve? Leaking or not functioning? Are any hoses leaking now or still unplugged? Bi-metal valve is (I can only think of) for sensing temperature for things like whether the air intake picks up air off a warm/hot manifold or cooler air from outside near grille AND if a carburetor (gotta tell me if that's possible) could double or be alone for choke pull off - would likely use two and one when part warmed to open chokes more faster. Let me know what type of fuel delivery I can guess some of this.


Other temp sensitive needs would be for idle speed! If cold it would be more apt to stall so send a signal direct thru vacuum or converted to a signal for idle speed.


Right now your fuel economy (I have to think harder what that consumption means in MPG as the norm in US) = about 10-12 MPG for a quick guess so way too much unless just idling in traffic constantly. Do remember how far a vehicle goes on an amount of fuel is always ZERO if you aren't moving! That you average in to what it does at a steady speed by any method but helpful to know to zoom in on the problem and you have a problem by description.


Use of A/C is a load on the engine more than about anything except forcing power steering way too hard. Either in this should raise the idle speed to cover a normal load like that. That is what's missing IMO right now. It either can't adjust its own idle speed or delivering fuel like it's always cold and that info being wrong matches using too much fuel issue + the stumbling with load of A/C.


For now check for what device hold throttle speed if only looking at air intake and the throttle cable there should be something. That should be cleaned with either called carburetor cleaner or throttle body cleaner spray with caution for back flash of fire - note that as done with engine running at first holding idle up by hand right at the cable where it pivots! If this uses an IAC (idle air control) that you clean as well or might be faulty and need replacing but not until you have a good clue what controls it.


Bear with me and any others with this. Almost all are US based so the car wouldn't be exact as if sold to the US. Vacuum routing is going to be very important. At the age if this model ever color coded rubber hose (not sure on this at all) hose would probably already be replaced and not color coded.
Suggestion for ones you are sure of: Paint a dot real small on the connection hose and item with a color YOU then make a document of for use.


Other because of our locations: You are almost totally the other side of the world by time zone. Most of the regulars would not be up at night here for daytime where you are - OK? I can look but just tell you most of us are EST Eastern Standard Time or GMT (-5 hours) if that helps?


One more for now: If you even think you can find this exact same car in a junk/salvage yard intact and junked for some other reason than engine problems take pictures if you can on whatever device if only for yourself or try to post either your own car's engine parts and you trouble area here too could really help.


I'll narrow this thread missing the diagram first posted and be able (I hope) to put it back if needed or you should be able to put it back using "edit" options in you view of this thread - got it?


Sun is up here and now I'm tired? Go figure,


Tom


(edited out diagram for now. Moderators can view it or put it back up top. Out of view for non moderators right now but here)



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Mar 20, 2015, 3:59 AM)






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