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2011 sonata overheating 2.0T


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Mwcarnline
Novice

Jun 5, 2019, 5:32 PM

Post #1 of 11 (347 views)
2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

I have a 2011 sonata that is overheating. pk I have changed thermostat, radiator, water pump, coolant is full and back in January changed out the head gasket relay is good, im kinda stumped The only thing i can even think or consider is heater core??? Hhhheellpp


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jun 5, 2019, 6:47 PM

Post #2 of 11 (331 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

Is this getting hot in stopped or slow traffic or only at highway speeds?

Is it consuming coolant over time?



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Mwcarnline
Novice

Jun 10, 2019, 6:39 PM

Post #3 of 11 (291 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

Overtime doesnt matter idling or driving

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Sidom
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Sidom profile image

Jun 11, 2019, 11:32 AM

Post #4 of 11 (274 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

What about if it's using coolant?
You didn't answer HT's question if you are having to add coolant periodically.

I'm not sure what relay you changed, but there isn't a "head gasket relay"


Mwcarnline
Novice

Jun 12, 2019, 5:10 AM

Post #5 of 11 (256 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

Forgot the comma and rely for the cooling system. Now i am having to add coolant when we drive. And iverheats doing both quicker while driving. Recently did a pressure test for the cap but im pretty sure the head was put on wrong and or gasket or milled wrong. I have flow but after giving it gas it shoots back to the reservoir boiling... :(

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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 12, 2019, 7:01 AM

Post #6 of 11 (254 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

Site can be tricky to use. Just look for plain "reply" when responding.
OK, so it's consuming coolant all the time. Pressure test to find a leak if you can and is external will see that one sounds like a lot. Gaskets don't get "milled" the head should be with a head gasket job if not cracked or too far gone.
It's pretty sure if leaking for any reason it can't hold pressure so it's boiling and if fully warmed up it would in many vehicles. Needs pressure or coolant will boil then coolant is vapor doesn't cool and it overheats. Then you ruin head gaskets and warp parts in pretty sure order keep driving it like that is just making it hopeless to fix this engine.
Find the leak if none or loses pressure with a pressure test watch out it can lock the engine pull plugs to let it out or risk causing more damage.
Check oil level for coolant in it or if too high a level sounds like this is pretty bad,


T



Mwcarnline
Novice

Jun 12, 2019, 7:28 AM

Post #7 of 11 (249 views)
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The head was milled not the head gasket. No coolant in the oil. Oil was low. About a quart. Prior head job the head was milled cause it was warped. Replaced gasket pressure test was done no leaks. Changed spark plugs 3 rd was mis firing founx oil around plug replaced valve cover and gaskets as well.


Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 12, 2019, 8:02 AM

Post #8 of 11 (245 views)
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Quoting you from back a couple posts: ">Now i am having to add coolant when we drive. And overheats doing both quicker while driving. Recently did a pressure test for the cap but I'm pretty sure the head was put on wrong and or gasket or milled wrong. I have flow but after giving it gas it shoots back to the reservoir boiling... :( <" (corrected typos)
**********************
OK, so now you say after it was done it did hold pressure but now that above? That's right now not even if right hours ago that matters. If it will not hold pressure now it did it all over again! Most systems are just plain hard to fill with coolant leaving air. That air can't exchange heat so in no time can do damage again. It's blowing back to the reservoir because it's wildly overheating for any reason but low coolant for real not just the looks or a line on a recovery bottle.
All that so pressure test again you said it's losing coolant now don't know if blowing it out or a leak. Either is no good.
Just for your information: Water boils at 212F at sea level. Less at altitude! Coolant mix adds a few degrees to that. Pressure cap usually 15 Lbs. adds another 45F to the boiling point which it must have or do just what you said - blow back to reservoir first coolant then just steaming vapor trust me vapor doesn't exchange close to enough heat for an engine.
Let it be cool and pressure test it see what the results are even with air in it by the second try it should hold. You have a chance if it does,


T



Sidom
Veteran / Moderator
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Jun 12, 2019, 9:44 AM

Post #9 of 11 (238 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In


In Reply To
Now i am having to add coolant when we drive.


Based off of everything you have posted. I would be looking at the head real close. Do a compression test and a leak down test. This will pick up any internal problems in the head.

I know you don't wanna hear that, but this is where I would start.


Mwcarnline
Novice

Jun 13, 2019, 8:34 AM

Post #10 of 11 (214 views)
Re: 2011 sonata overheating 2.0T Sign In

I know its bad... just sucks. No leaks that are visible air not in system we purged it 5 times and each time ran vehicle longer. Put up on jacks on the front even and did it as well. Its loosing coolant from boiling out of the reservoir my cap is 16lbs done a pressure text at every auto store we can find al said sane thing head is no good. Its aluminum and warped which is why they milledit when th ed y did the head gasket. But i know being aluminum and milled depending on how bad it was warped on my car it doesnt usually last. If gasket was put in upside down/ wrong it will still hold but will cause damage and i think thats what has happened after 3.5 months of the reg engine heat plus its a turbo EDI then in AZ and 100 plu ssd's degrees i think it finally cracked again and or warped th ed head more.... :(


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 13, 2019, 9:24 AM

Post #11 of 11 (212 views)
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Most don't just purge out AIR! Thermostats are frequently a total stop of flow in assorted locations some just position of one the show is lost. WE ARE NOT TESTING THE DANG RADIATOR/PRESSURE CAP ANYMORE need the RADIATOR+ COOLING SYSTEM UNDER PRESSURE!


When it boils doesn't always become just liquid again SAID air doesn't exchange heat so it's way, way too hot unseen. Aluminum/alloys can't take it once many times.
OMG, TURBO too! Born to blow up asking a dinky engine for more power IMO adds more heat and stress builds up heat faster too.
Test again you may not see coolant but losing it, it's burning it or in oil or just blowing out and don't see it. It can't be totally filled almost certain you need to vacuum fill this thing or this will happen again. Not this one IDK how much "milling" can be done before it's all over?


Tom







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