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2006 Accord ABS light, alternator light, limp modes and other codes

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New User

Jan 26, 2019, 8:11 AM

Post #1 of 3 (203 views)
2006 Accord ABS light, alternator light, limp modes and other codes Sign In

Hi, I have a 2006 Accord 2.4L with about 275k miles last week I drove about 25 miles, got out and left it idling for about 5 minutes. Got back in and the ABS light was on, drove off and it went in to limp mode. Turned around and came back and the alternator light came on. Put a cheap code reader on and it was throwing a bunch of codes, most of which were for camshaft position sensor and one MAF sensor code. I know I shouldn't replace parts strictly based on codes, but I replaced the back (exhaust?) CPS. After that, the car started up again (but it didn't want to at first). Still was in limp mode, so I replaced the other CPS, then it would not start at all. Got a better code reader and it was only showing the MAF sensor low voltage code, took it out and cleaned it off, but the car still won't start. I put the original front CPS back in and still wouldn't start. Try to clear the MAF sensor code and it won't go away. The car turns over, but it won't fire. Once in a while, it sounds like it wants to go, but won't. Not sure about my next step, any help or thoughts would be appreciated.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jan 26, 2019, 11:26 AM

Post #2 of 3 (191 views)
Re: 2006 Accord ABS light, alternator light, limp modes and other codes Sign In

You need to slow down here.
First, there is no such thing as limp mode for the engine on that car.

I think everything started with the car not charging and the voltage going low that triggered most of the codes.

Start from the beginning..... Clear all codes. Go back over everything you touched and see if you damaged any plugs or wiring. Then if it has a fully charged battery and still won't start, revert back to basic "Crank, no start" diagnostic procedures. See below.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.


We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 26, 2019, 11:32 AM

Post #3 of 3 (188 views)
Re: 2006 Accord ABS light, alternator light, limp modes and other codes Sign In

I take it the 275,000 miles isn't a typo - right? Duh - that's tons of course for about every screw, wire or anything but it was running now it's not something made that happen. Codes may not be very helpful.
MAF - you may not have squat for intake air flow so perhaps start with a base compression check if wildly off tell-tale is when cranking it's just a smooth crank feel or all different sound just that.
*Valve timing and or some sudden violation of intake parts beginning to engine.

Any wild weather changes this was recently exposed to or other anything to aggravate it? For the miles that's either supernatural luck or you or someone kept some pretty strict attention to maintenance along they way if recently let go valve timing would be first check compression would show it,


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