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2000 Kia Sportage start and idle problems


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usmc2037
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Jun 2, 2005, 1:35 PM

Post #1 of 10 (15502 views)
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Have a 2000 Kia Sportage with a 2.0 DOHC engine. Recently replaced headgasket after car overheated due to bad fan clutch. Fuel pump has also been replaced. The engine still has the same problem as it had after it overheated. Very difficult to start. Have to pump the gas pedal like it has a carb instead of fuel injection. After getting it started it runs but is rough(seems to run smoother at higher rpms). It will then go dead once the engine warms up and it goes to low idle. As long as the rpms are kept high the engine will run, but let the rpms go down and it will die. Any help would be appreciated.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 2, 2005, 5:21 PM

Post #2 of 10 (15478 views)
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Re: 2000 Kia Sportage start and idle problems [In reply to] Sign In

Start by taking a hard look at what had to be unplugged, wires, vac hoses etc., and see if any were left unplugged or damaged. Good luck,
_________________________________________
Long retired now


usmc2037
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Jun 2, 2005, 11:45 PM

Post #3 of 10 (15473 views)
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Thanks for the advice, already did the check several times. The intake manifold, cylinder head, and exhaust manifold came off as a single unit, just a few wires on the back of the valve cover gasket, a hose and a ground wire to disconnect that are not in plain site. By the way, while I had it all apart, put in new plugs and wires since you have to take the breather assembly off the top of the engine to get to them.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 3, 2005, 4:11 AM

Post #4 of 10 (15470 views)
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If the rough running seems regular it is probably isolated to one cylinder. Feel for the exhaust flow out tailpipe. If it has a steady "putt" it's generally one cyl. Pull plug wires one at a time, the problem cylinder won't make as much change as the others. Check plug and wire (even new stuff happens). With cooler engine spray window cleaner on wires, dist cap or coil pack - one at a time - changes noted indicate trouble there and sometimes you even see arcing.

If a random rough condition - vacuum leaks are common. Spray carb cleaner around intake manifold gasket and any suspect area - changes noted are a problem spot. Use all care as some carb/throttle body cleaners can catch fire - be ready and best done with a cooler engine, but that trick works pretty good.

You had an over heating problem and lots of things don't like that. There is probably an idle speed motor - see if it moves to raise idle when engine is about to stall. It's there to keep idle constant like with added load from A/C or hard use of power steering.

If you didn't send the head out to a machine shop there are more not so nice possiblilties. Let's not go there yet. Keep at it, hope you find something simple, I'm with you here,
_________________________________________
Long retired now


usmc2037
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Jun 3, 2005, 9:34 PM

Post #5 of 10 (15464 views)
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Thought I could get away with the head not going to shop, famous last words of many a repair. I'll try the new procedures this weekend. Then I'm going to be out of touch for a couple of weeks before I can try any new suggestions. I appreciate your time and effort in my project.


usmc2037
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Jul 16, 2005, 11:00 PM

Post #6 of 10 (15333 views)
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UnsureFinally got out to work on her again, did a compression test, wet and dry. Dry compression for cyclinders 1-4 was 85psi, 44psi, 55psi and 85psi. Wet compression test for cyclinders 1-4 was 95psi, 52psi, 65psi, and 90psi. I read this that I have problems with the heads due to the low compression psi in cyclinders 2 and 3. Should the rise in the compression on all the cyclinders after the wet test be of concern or is the rise is pressure about right due to the wet test. Any comments welcome.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jul 17, 2005, 5:24 AM

Post #7 of 10 (15331 views)
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The "wet" test is really to check Rings. All #s are too low! - could just be the way test was done but the #s should be within about 10% of each other. A head gasket could be at fault, but I would think you'd have more troubles is that was the whole problem. Doesn't look encouraging sorry to say,
_________________________________________
Long retired now


usmc2037
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Jul 17, 2005, 11:56 AM

Post #8 of 10 (15329 views)
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Thanks for the info. The test was done by removing the plugs(all 4) and then, using a new craftsman compression tester, I screwed in the compression tester hose and turned the engine over several times until the compression gauge needle did not rise any further on the gauge. I then went on to the other cyclinders in sequence. I was not able to find what the compression numbers should of been, even have a book with specs and it doesn't say. Guess its time to start looking at a complete rebuild.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jul 17, 2005, 2:30 PM

Post #9 of 10 (15329 views)
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Don't mind exact #s as much as how close they are to each other. Two cyl side by side can be a head or head gasket. If they are away from each other it's less likely.

These sites are awesome but get some local assistance. A model year 2000 needing an engine is early in my opinion! Good grief --I own stuff decades older that's still fine?? It's worth some $ to check this out, good luck,
_________________________________________
Long retired now


usmc2037
Novice

Jul 20, 2005, 12:14 AM

Post #10 of 10 (15280 views)
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Thanks for all the advice, did some looking around, cheapest I could get the heads rebuilt was close to $600. Seems like a lot of money but others wanted more than that. The local machine shop I have sent heads to over the years was bought out due to retirement and then closed. So if I am going to spend $600 for the heads and $80 for the gasket etc.. I might as well put it on a good block. Got the shop I buy remanufactured short blocks to redo the engine and heads, take out and install as well as tow for $2000 and got 36,000, 36 month warrenty on the work. So to get the wifes car running I let them do the work. Once again, thanks for all the encouragement and advice.




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