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1998 Volvo S70 died while driving

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Aug 29, 2015, 10:10 AM

Post #1 of 2 (616 views)
1998 Volvo S70 died while driving Sign In

I was driving the 1998 Volvo S70 at 40 mph. After crossing a railroad track the engine died and would not restart. In trying to start, the engine would turn over once, try to catch, and then stop. I had the vehicle towed home. Once home, I tried starting, but again it would not start. During that trip I noticed a slight hesitation with starting up from a dead stop. It didn't seem that the engine was hesitating. It was more like a hesitation transferring power to the wheels. I thought I might be low on transmission fluid. However, after checking, the transmission fluid was good. I waited about 6 hours, after getting home, and tried to start the engine again. It still would not start. The next morning the car started right up and so I checked the diagnostic codes. The only code I got was 0410, which was a preexisting condition. There were no new codes for this problem. I let the car run for 3 hours and checked the codes again. The only new codes were pending misfire codes - 300, 302, 304, 305.

The only thing I can think of, is that crossing over the railroad tracks caused a loose connection somewhere. However the vibration from the towing did not reset that loose connection? I would think with a hard failure like that, there would be a new diagnostic code. Just sitting still overnight fixed a loose connection? I don't want to take the car on the road again to test it because it might fail the same way again, with no evidence, and I get stuck with another tow.

Where do I start?

Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Aug 29, 2015, 10:30 AM

Post #2 of 2 (612 views)
Re: 1998 Volvo S70 died while driving Sign In

Not all failures will set a code. The computer is programmed specific things.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.


We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

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