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cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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nuklhed
New User
Mar 28, 2007, 9:51 PM
Post #1 of 9
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cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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Do i need to replace anything after this bonehead move? Does anyone have an underdash wiring and vacuum line diagram for a 1968 Thunderbird basic Tudor with a 429 ? need help please
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DanD
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/ Moderator
Mar 29, 2007, 5:07 AM
Post #2 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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No I don’t have diagrams for that year of bird, sorry. What’s not working, now that you’ve connected the battery correctly?
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
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nuklhed
New User
Mar 29, 2007, 1:01 PM
Post #3 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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runs rough, battery won't hold a charge. the cables were only crossed for about 30 seconds, but it probably damaged something.
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DanD
Veteran
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Mar 29, 2007, 5:19 PM
Post #4 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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It’s been a long time since I’ve seen one of these but the voltage regulator may have taken a hit. For the cost of one just replace it and then check the battery voltages with a meter.
One reading before you start the engine and one after; you should see a voltage increase. An increase from one to three volts depending on the RPM, but no more then 15.5 volts. An over charged battery will cause a battery to fail just as fast as one not being charged at all.
As for the rough running I would suspect the points and condenser if the running issue is caused from the reversed cables.
Good luck with this it may take some head scratching to sort out all the bugs.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
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nuklhed
New User
Mar 29, 2007, 5:37 PM
Post #5 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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Hey DanD, I really appreciate the response back. I just bought this car dirt cheap. ( It was in someones backyard ) I want to restore it and overall its in pretty good shape. It even has the opera backseat. Anything you know or can recommend, I'll listen. I'm going to replace the voltage regulator this weekend and I'll let you know. Again, Thanks!
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DanD
Veteran
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Mar 29, 2007, 5:58 PM
Post #6 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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Well good luck and keep us posted as this adventure unfolds. I know a couple of people here that are solid Ford people and will be a lot more help then just me. Tom.G and Way2old are the guys you want to listen to; I’ve always been a little more of a GM person. Sorry but I’ll help where I can.
If you can post some pictures of the car and your work that will keep this thread alive. If you need help posting pic’s let me know.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 30, 2007, 9:23 AM
Post #7 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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Hi - I'm here. For diagrams a good bet would be Baker's Auto Rt. 44, Putnam, CT. A Steve Ouelette (Pronounced "wool-ette) should still be the owner and they had taken on some T-Birds and are the bible for Lincolns 60s thru 80s.
For amazing deatailed info a Chilton's Professional edition service manual has tons of great info in that vintage. Try to get a '69 edition that will cover '68 and have any corrections as they cover 9 years back.
You can jump two of the four wires on the regulator and they alternator will put out full ability. Don't leave it that was as it will overcharge. I don't recall the two that you touch together right now. Might be able to find that or perhaps way2old remembers.
Know that T-birds changed dramatically in '67 and always made their changes in three year increments and you should.
You should have points and condensor which should be ok. Not much I know of that would self destruct with reversed polarity as there is really no micro chip type controlled things. If you have melted wires that could be trouble. Vacuum wouldn't care but there is lots of it in those and could still be original so they are getting old.
Please say what you noticed may have be hurt.
Again the regulator, perhaps radio and perhaps alternator are all I can think of right now.
Hit back and we'll do our best, T
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nuklhed
New User
Apr 2, 2007, 1:11 PM
Post #8 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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Hey Tom, great troubleshooting from afar. The voltage regulator was the problem. I replaced points, condensor,cap rotor, plugs and replaced all visible vacuum lines-runs beautiful. Only small problem is the dwell is at 26 degrees and it should be 21. I know how Chevys are adjusted through the cap, but how do I adjust it on a Ford? I know you know the answer and thanks again for the help!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 3, 2007, 1:00 AM
Post #9 of 9
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Re: cris cros battery cables 68 T bird
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Points!! Did I hear POINTS?? You've reached the right old fart. Gm's thru the cap was even late before EE took everything over.
No problem.
Get the points on top of the cam by their bumper and you'll see the gap. To raise dwell you want them closer together and vs versa.
You can start with the feeler gauges but can finish with your dwell meter. Loosen the screw just a smidge -- you still want it sticky tight but not loose. There should be two bumps on dist plate and a slot in the end of the pointset. With a slotted screwdriver you can twist on this to get the closest you can that looks correct.
You can crank the engine with cap off and dwell meter on and see the dwell at cranking speed and actually move it with the slots while cranking and get real close. Of course don't over crank engine and let starter cool off between tries. Tighten the screw which can change the adjustment and check again.
Now put cap on and run the engine. You may get a different dwell reading at idle speed and adjust as needed by slight changes in gap to you get what you want.
I recall dwell will drop some from just cranking speed. If you get more than 5 degrees deviation with reving the engine, the dist bearings are at their limit and think about replacing the bearings. If way off you will have to at some time.
Put some point grease or silicone grease (a very small amount) on the leading edge of the nylon that rides the cam as determined by dist rotation. Vacuum advance is off set and if you look down at dist imagine you are going in thru that diaphragm and that's the way the distributor rotates.
Back: You should look at new points to see that they touch evenly and there is a point aligning tool for that and should be done first with points out.
With the little smear of grease and do that now and then they can last a long time. If you see later that the points transfer a mini tip of metal and leave a pocked hole on the other the condensor is not well matched. If the old points didn't do that put it back in a keep it. I don't know of a life expectancy with a condensor so keep the good ones and don't just replace them all them time.
Hope that made some sense. Hit back as needed and I'll think harder or try to describe it better.
Loved those Birds. Pass anything but a gas station!!  T
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