|
|
adding auxiliary power to a conversion van
|
|
|
| |
|
|
jeremydayton
New User
Mar 20, 2015, 10:16 AM
Post #1 of 5
(1777 views)
|
|
adding auxiliary power to a conversion van
|
Sign In
|
|
Hello! I have a few questions concerning adding a second battery/power inverter to my 1991 Chevy G30 conversion van. I'm looking to add the power to charge/run simple devices (laptop, cell phones, nothing really crazy) while stopped at campsites and other places. I have a Cobra CPI-1575 1500 watt power inverter with a 3000 watt cap. I have a Everstart 29DC deep cycle battery. The alternator is pushing 100 amps under the hood. First of all, what type of battery isolator should I buy? Also, what gauge cables will work? And yet another question, do I need to get a 150 amp inline fuse to boost up the inverter? I don't think I'll be pushing anything more than 1500 watts at any time and even that's a stretch. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2015, 1:21 PM
Post #2 of 5
(1761 views)
|
|
Re: adding auxiliary power to a conversion van
|
Sign In
|
|
To what suits you that is easy and safe.
What you mentioned you only need a power port/cig lighter size 100W inverter in front of me now spikes to 190W and doesn't need a constant fan! Shuts down if battery is low also. OK - that was a deal for no joke $7 bucks! See similar for closer to $20.
You choice but would just charge battery while running van power port to power port but unplug it when not running or charge separately. Yes, they make double male ended extensions for 12v power that double as a charger port to port.
Charging or using devices like cell phone and laptop shouldn't draw diddle. Look at chargers for what they draw all mine say so.
Use of LED for lights use next to nothing. Camp lights with rechargeable batteries will run days and no problem all night. Charge those with inverter or when you have them in a home and bring them charged with you.
The trunk of my car is set up with this right now and hooked up while running or on maintainer while not in use can keep both vehicle and the spare whole battery at full charge. That battery is about 800+/- CCA power so also tons for jumping other things, cars, generator or what ever assorted 12V things, w engines or not.
Think it out carefully what you need if this would do not really involving the vehicle at all only to charge if you need to while running or if you plug in where you might go?
Advantage is you have a spare battery to get the van going even and keep the whole show separate. If something like that works for you that's easy. If you want or need fans, refrigerator (dorm size) and things with motors you need to rethink what to do with more.
If you have the bucks consider a "Gel Cell" powerful battery as they don't mind being on side or even upside down and do not emit any gasses while charging that I know of. 3X the cost of similar liquid lead acid batteries. Deep cycle is good but you still are in an enclosed space. Check on that as I'm not sure about vapors from that battery?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
jeremydayton
New User
Mar 20, 2015, 1:51 PM
Post #3 of 5
(1756 views)
|
|
Re: adding auxiliary power to a conversion van
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks for the quick response! It would be nice to have a strong charge that's separate from the primary battery just in case I need it, which is the reason why I choose a high wattage inverter and a pretty strong battery. I do plan on charging the deep cycle off of the alternator when driving or idling to keep the charge up, I'm just confused as to what battery isolator to get or maybe I can just put in a relay switch? Also, after doing some research it seems that people either choose a #4 AWG cable or #8 AWG. With my limited experience with wiring I'm not sure as to which one to use. My other problem is that I don't know if I should incorporate an inline fuse...seen 150 amp used as well as 300 amp. I'm not even sure if it's necessary to do that but I want to be as safe as possible. The battery is right below a window so they'll be plenty of ventilation available and it's pretty well locked into place to avoid tipping over. Any thoughts on those issues? Thanks again!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2015, 2:38 PM
Post #4 of 5
(1753 views)
|
|
Re: adding auxiliary power to a conversion van
|
Sign In
|
|
! Yes to an inline fuse but know your amps. 12v for what you are doing shouldn't need more than a 10amp (red) spade type you can solder in line. Check if you use power ports most male ends have a fuse in them! Look and see.
Seriously - I make up tons of 12v stuff. A small gel cell at my feet right now on maintainer, inverter and light bulb. 10 for so of the camp lights plus a rechargeable, 4 AA battery magnetic trouble light seems like 75W home light bulb so bright! Have to be ready for power outages where I am.
If or when you go nuts and use this lots or for longer times there's stuff for everything. Last boat I owned had a dual power fridge, cord such that when plugged into "shore power" everything automatically switched to 110 AC current AND it charged the boats battery at same time. That also switched instantly back to 12V for fridge without touching anything and only had to remember not to let it run a fridge too long without running engine of boat. Bad enough to have a dead battery in a land vehicle, a disaster if out to sea - not funny and yes had spare battery to run whole thing not connected but kept charged.
Some of the auto switching stuff is wild expensive! That fridge I'm told was close to a thousand bucks and only 2ish cubic ft thing.
Check around either on line or in person at RV places or marine if any around you for assorted stuff. Wally World and like places even the chain auto parts stores have stuff all 12v - fans and more.
In short do fuse everything and know what gauge wire needed for what.
None of this should be hard at all for what you said you wanted,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 22, 2015, 11:29 AM
Post #5 of 5
(1719 views)
|
|
Re: adding auxiliary power to a conversion van
|
Sign In
|
|
More on this:
Just back from a Wally World (many around me carry different stock?) had tons of widgets and gadgets for power port use. Smart charger for 12V, 130V to 180V spike inverter. Those just quit if overloaded so IMO safe, no fan constantly. "The Zone" I know has some too.
Splitters to make 1 12V port, 3 and clip on 12V power port to plain battery sitting anywhere. I'd avoid wiring into van at all except charging while running and underway as said.
Web or these places also power port to USB and more. No shortage of safe stuff IMO.
Check van's cig lighter fuse rating. About those years and older most could only blow one fuse without harm so if pushing it have spares but only what the van's amp rating is not more ever!
T
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Tierod end change caused some kind of leak
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
