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What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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valleybusman
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Jun 5, 2017, 9:42 PM
Post #1 of 9
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What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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I have an International truck with 2 batteries and a DT 466 engine . I know something is draining the batteries . Truck sits for 3 days dead as door knob . Hook up the smart charger and it doesn't detect any voltage and has to do low start . So I read the post about using a meter to locate . My question is I have a Fluke 88V tester . I can't figure out or find in the booklet how to use for reading parasitic battery drain ? Do I need a certain meter to do the test ? If so what brand and the series . The boss wants me to install a disconnect on the batteries .
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 6, 2017, 1:44 AM
Post #2 of 9
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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Finding "Parasitic Drains" is discussed here at a post locked up to. You would use a DVOM - brand not as important just accuracy and with dual batteries you will have to know each is good and fully charged or may be the problem right there alone.
Link > http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...THE_BATTERY_P186624/
I've mentioned it a lot that discharging or even allowing "lead-acid" automotive batteries is alone quite damaging to the battery(S) not intended to be draw current to the end at all like ones for devices mostly are Lithium Ion is a whole different thing.
There are batteries for use in "automotive type" vehicles/machines that do tolerate the "deep cycle" and are treated differently for charging if drained to essentially nothing.
IDK - every possible brand but Optima is the most popular you could google out specs on those and maybe help. The do cost a lot more - expect that if you go there,
T
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Hammer Time
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Jun 6, 2017, 5:31 AM
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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Yes, the Fluke 88 will test for Ma drains. You should have a manual with it. If not, here is a link to the MANUAL.
The part that complicates it a little is the dual batteries and not knowing how they are wired. If the 2 batteries come into a central switch somewhere, that would be the point to do your testing from.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 6, 2017, 5:40 AM
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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Make sure your meter's fuse is good. Also if your amperage drain is higher than the rating of the fuse in the meter, it will blow the fuse. You should get a battery disconnect, so you can have your meter connected when you open and close the disconnect. You'll also need to know from the manufacture what normal parasitic drain amperage is. On most cars anything over 50mA isn't acceptable. Not sure what it would be on a big truck.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 6, 2017, 5:43 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 6, 2017, 7:05 AM
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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Just asking as "Big Rig" trucks aren't my thing at all. Aren't some or many 24V systems using two 12volt batteries in series? I would think if so you also cut in for common 12V for some or many things must be thru a device/resistor to lower voltage when it all together?
Asking as procedures would change for specs I would think? Check for drains at each or if newer you don't want improper voltage sent to find a drain as 1/2 volts sent to what is drawing power might not draw at all. Now can't know,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jun 6, 2017, 7:08 AM)
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valleybusman
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Jun 6, 2017, 7:20 AM
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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I think you are right about 24 volts . The batteries are connected positive to positive and negative to negative . Then there is one positive and one negative to the the truck .Then there are wires that come off the batteries for the ECM and the IDM .
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Hammer Time
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Jun 6, 2017, 7:47 AM
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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That would be a 12V system. They are wired in parallel.
Make sure both batteries are actually good before getting started.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 6, 2017, 7:48 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 6, 2017, 7:59 AM
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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I'll stay out how you get 24V that way which I call in parallel like two batteries are really just 1 that doubles the power of AMS.
In series you two 12V batteries Pos+ to Neg to the second you get equivalent of a 24V single battery.
Then the second you are testing at 24V. One by one would be just the 12V.
I haven't so much as ridden in a "big rig" that pulls trailers that are everywhere it's a separate deal for most as they wouldn't fit in any shop doing just ordinary cars and trucks.
It's OK - just know DC voltage how you can get what vehicle or not. Common household batteries you must know are 1.5V each. When you add multiple ones up for a thing you get volts on how they are pointing.
You can take two 9V batteries (smoke detectors - most used those) and get 18V for example - try it.
Now, testing for a drain if you read that you are pulling fuses to see when the drain quits. You need to know how long any item take to shut down and defeat any lighting that automatically comes on like interior lights, glove boxes if it must be open and so on.
You'll only find what the fuse if for and check those items.
Back - a 3 day drain to "Quoting you > Dead as a door knob" I don't think common batteries can take that maybe once or twice and come back or they are no good now if newer or even recently were tested good.
They need to match perfectly or fight with each other also. In regular vehicles or trucks with twin batteries you would toss both for a matched pair so no fighting with one lower than the other wrecks both.
Back again. I couldn't believe with all the lighting for the Semi truck's trailer could all be 24V bulbs rather 12v rated - right?
The way you said it this isn't 24 volts at all or it done like that for a different reason. Reason would be lots of cold cranking amps for starter and can't think of any other reason for the rest of entire thing to be 24V at all. Worked on tons of boats to full blown yachts monster engines and for me up to six marine grade 12V batteries. All items on those work on 12V or inverted to 110 for AC powered items up to another whole generator - motor homes do that.
These things you so cut out batteries with a dial switch if left unattended or some of them so you don't lose everything to start up again later.
Just a refresh. If all hooked up together and one battery shorts inside for example it would ruin all that were hooked up when that happened new or not.
Specifics for you truck I can't know so do have a manual as Hammer posted a link to how you are set up. Have to know this - you have a chance. The dang yachts I worked on had no info at all that I did work on so follow wires to see what does what and where it goes all hidden what a rat's nest they are.
Good luck - you do have a drain in 3 days totally dead isn't close. That's damaging as already said wouldn't matter what this thing was,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 6, 2017, 8:01 AM
Post #9 of 9
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Re: What kind of tester for parasitic battery drain
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Hammer was faster than I was typing away. Still we both are saying you MUST know both batteries are absolutely known good,
T
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