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Starter wont turn over, small trigger wire not getting power
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Wayne619
New User
Oct 14, 2017, 11:12 PM
Post #1 of 8
(2275 views)
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Starter wont turn over, small trigger wire not getting power
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I have a 2006 Pontiac G6, 3.5 V6. 170k miles. I have been dealing with starter issues for the last month and hope someone can help me out. 1 month ago, car gave out high pitch squealing sound, seemed to idle kind of rough and then suddenly would no longer start. I am able to manually rotate engine and there is oil so I doubt it is seized. Battery was drained also. My mechanic checked it out and said my starter fuse kept popping and the starter needed to be replaced. Since then I have replaced serpentine belt, alternator and starter (reman). Battery has been tested at autozone, charged and passed. Battery currently has 12.4 volts but starter will not engage at all. Jumpstarting does not work. When I first put the key in, I hear fuel pump, all accessories turn on, lights and headlights are bright etc. Earlier today, I went down there with a test light and multimeter. 12 volts is going to the large wire on the starter. NO power is getting to the solenoid while my assistant turned the key to start. All fuses are good, except for the starter fuse that keeps blowing. I tried looking and searching for any cut wires touching the frame etc, didn't see anything. Based on what I have read, I am leaning toward ignition switch issues, but hoping for more opinions. I have not tested voltage at the ignition switch yet with a multimeter. Not quite sure how or what wires I connect it to. Can a bad ignition switch blow a fuse? I am tempted to remove starter and take back to autozone but I doubt it could be a bad part right out of the box.
(This post was edited by Wayne619 on Oct 16, 2017, 3:52 AM)
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Wayne619
New User
Oct 15, 2017, 9:46 PM
Post #3 of 8
(2219 views)
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Re: Starter wont turn over, solenoid not getting power
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Do you know how to read sir? I clearly said I AM able to rotate by hand, hence it is obviously NOT seized. So where exactly do you get your logic?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 16, 2017, 12:33 AM
Post #4 of 8
(2208 views)
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Re: Starter wont turn over, solenoid not getting power
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Wayne619: Perhaps just misunderstood that was a pretty long run on like ONE sentence. So, reman starter and this continues to blow a fuse and now power gets to trigger wire is what the problem is as I see it.
That's what to chase not more to complicate it. Mechanic said to replace starter and you did not the mechanic is all fine just if fuse blew and he/she had just replaced the starter clearly both for whatever reason are drawing too much current so probably not the starter itself just yet again.
Low power delivered thru wires to the item that needs full battery amps (not just voltage is "push" amps is "POWER") isn't right. The weakest point when that high demand is requested and worked probably did burn thru a wire that triggers solenoid of the starter sounds backwards but low charge overheats and that's the spot to find.
That whine from back when was quite possibly poor power DELIVERY from battery to starter IMO. For ages GM side post terminals at the battery have been a problem at the eyelet not the bolt to the battery so jumping can be just to the battery not the rest of the car.
That needs to be checked and ruled out. Think harder about that battery and since it was run low or seemed to be suggests you kept trying too long or battery can't hold much power (amps) to crank engine still tested or not for voltage 12.4 is low if just charged or rather on the line to suspect it. If more than about 3 years old from date it was made (they are marked) and run low it's fragile and isn't going to take that and being recharged if you do or another best not to play with a low charged battery.
1. Check those terminals at the battery.
2. Charge it yourself - get a charger that will charge slowly and automatically shut off. Available for under $30 or around there. Playing around with a low state of charge is just going to confuse testing. The slow charge is annoying as it can take hours vs fast charges and jump starts - avoid both of those.
Allowing the car to charge a low or bad battery is just asking for more troubles later which is what I think has surfaced now.
- Battery probably no good for CCA anymore and cable ends probably never tended to now will play ping-pong with you wrecking good parts all must be good all at once and can't be IMO,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 16, 2017, 12:38 AM)
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Wayne619
New User
Oct 16, 2017, 3:21 AM
Post #5 of 8
(2195 views)
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Re: Starter wont turn over, solenoid not getting power
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Hello Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I will think harder regarding the battery and may go ahead and just replace it, although it is only 9 months old. It did pass at autozone, but I have learned to be wary of their "tests" as they are often wrong. My main concern at this point definitely is why the trigger wire is not getting power when attempting to start the car. This is my first time dealing with this type of issue. Regarding the squealing mentioned earlier. It sounded like a belt squeal and only was heard when first starting car, which is why I went ahead and replaced alternator and serpentine belt. Could a belt-like squeal noise also come from a faulty starter? it was hard to pin point where the sound was coming from...
(This post was edited by Wayne619 on Oct 16, 2017, 3:28 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 16, 2017, 4:30 AM
Post #6 of 8
(2178 views)
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Re: Starter wont turn over, solenoid not getting power
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? OK I think? Battery if you replaced it 9 months ago that date is the warranty date. It needs testing for POWER not just if it has voltage IDK what you get from Autozone - could be properly checked or not that's not conclusive.
If your starter worked now you could watch voltage drops is the load it must also hold voltage up above about 10-11V while cranking but you can't. I machine can do that and watch it tolerate a load. CCA = "Cold Cranking Amps" just CA is at room temps or about. If that goes to low while in the car solenoid is supposed to flutter so it doesn't burn things up not mentioned making me guess it didn't?
Now any battery and problems you still begin with a fully charged battery. The belt squeal at start up back when now is right away the loss taken OUT of a batter is put right back when running. If either belt is loose or slips for any other reason that's not normal. The noise is the alternator working hard for that time. If prolonged as with a very discharged battery it would get way too hot for it and could kill a good one then just keep playing this game back and forth.
Batteries are a perishable item treat them that way. Alternators work to a point but not meant to work full blast too long. Some take this abuse for quite a while some don't the objective it don't allow it.
Now noted I don't know yet is the lack of solenoid flutter if so is missing info. They would with low power applied to them which points now to lack of enough power to even flutter so the series of checks needs to be done hopefully see the problem so you know that's over with when you fix that,
T
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Wayne619
New User
Oct 28, 2017, 9:34 PM
Post #7 of 8
(2090 views)
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Re: Starter wont turn over, solenoid not getting power
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Simple fix. Starter wire was corroded and touching intake manifold causing it to short out and fuse to blow. Car starts now.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 29, 2017, 3:17 AM
Post #8 of 8
(2077 views)
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Re: Starter wont turn over, solenoid not getting power
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OK Wayne - closed as solved,
T
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