|
|
New battery, new alternator: Not charging
|
|
|
| |
|
|
MissMasquerade
New User
Nov 28, 2013, 9:26 PM
Post #1 of 4
(6502 views)
|
New battery, new alternator: Not charging
|
|
|
Vehicle: 1995 Isuzu Rodeo, V6 with 200k miles approx.
My issue is that mainly the car battery is dying while driving. I can drive during the day without much issue, but at night I can drive for say 40 minutes and by the time Im at my destination the battery is dead.
Symptoms: I can see the voltage meter in the dash at just under 12 after completely charging the battery. I don't notice any change really after starting the car.
After driving a while the lights in the dash start flashing, eventually the gauge needles stop functioning and drop, and the lights dim.
Also, a while back the lights inside the car, like on the roof, and for the doors when they are open, they stopped working. Just none of them turn on anymore.
I dont know much about cars at all, but I have replaced the alternator(new from O'Reilys) and I got a new battery from WalMart. Then I got new battery connector things(the part that connects to the wires then clamps to the battery terminals).
I checked the fuses for the things that seem relevant(like I didnt check the radio or a/c because those are working but the rest I checked).
After all this it's still dying/not staying charged.
Ive been unemployed for 7 months and this is my only transportation to try to find a job. My fiance works overnight so whenever we drive the car dies by the time we get there.
We don't have enough money to really go to a mechanic and Im not sure what to do!
Anyway advice on what to check next and how please?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2013, 3:27 AM
Post #2 of 4
(6472 views)
|
|
Re: New battery, new alternator: Not charging
|
|
|
Do you have battery + power at the nut with plastic if that shows all the time? If not and probably not then it's fuse link or plain fused most likely perhaps along its route.
Oreilly's does test alternators first, don't they? None around where I am so couldn't know for sure. Do that first when you suspect things like that.
You must just be charging battery up and just drive till it quits, essentially no charging going on by description. That will kill the new battery as they don't tolerate going to dead and back too many times.
The cable ends only are near always just a temporary patch till you can get whole new cables or if available good stuff (not here for that) to splice in the right ones.
Late now but if that bad could have been the only problem to begin with. Make sure that at least all that you messed with to do that is back in place.
Guess of the day is alternator isn't getting triggered to charge by voltage regulator (shows that it's inside it by looks if correct) and should have been tested before you got it. May or should test it again. Some out of box aren't good,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
gabeyo
New User
Dec 13, 2013, 7:04 PM
Post #3 of 4
(6398 views)
|
|
Re: New battery, new alternator: Not charging
|
|
|
it could be wiring not making a good connection somewhere not turning the alternator on possibly. or those notorious clamp-on, replacement terminals. but it does sound to be staring fine. Is there a smaller wire that also connects to those terminals that is making a good connection?
to test if an alternator works, the two smaller plugins into the back of the alternator need to be connected to a positive lead to the battery. The closest one to the post is usually the wire that goes to the light and needs to be connected to positive all the time. the further pin from the post is usually the one that turns on the internal voltage regulator. the easiest spot to bridge is the post where the large wire bolts on the alt. jump both plugs to that to turn on the voltage regulator (and alternator) on. the further pin will also drain battery if left connected while not running. the car should run with the battery cable disconnected to see if it is charging if you don't have a meter.
or test the wires with a cheap multimeter. one wire goes to the alternator light the other is on when key is in run position.
voltage at battery or in dash gauge should be about twelve off and 14 running if alternator is working properly. google alternator wiring. it's pretty simple. good luck.
...maybe all that jumping of pins testing isn't necessary if you would rather unbolt it and bring it to a parts store. I'm trying to explain how an alternator is turned on and off. and how to check wiring with a multimeter. I saw meter at microcenter for three dollars.
(This post was edited by gabeyo on Dec 13, 2013, 9:36 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 13, 2013, 9:12 PM
Post #4 of 4
(6388 views)
|
|
Re: New battery, new alternator: Not charging
|
|
|
Quote ">>then the car should run with the battery cable disconnected to see if it is charging. <<" With a comment like that I request you refrain from giving advice. THAT BAD TRICK CAN WRECK SO MUCH STUFF AND SO OLD IT NEEDS TO BE BURRIED FOREVER.
Thread locked to protect the innocent from that crap. OP can request it open if wanted,
T
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2011 Dodge Nitro OBD scanner seems to drain battery in 10-20 minutes
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
Howdy
