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gcoulter
Novice
Apr 14, 2014, 10:34 AM
Post #1 of 6
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NEW BATTERY TOO BIG ?
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2002 Mercury Grand Marquis
My wife's car she doesnt' drive much at all I had a Sears Diehard battery in it and it died after I kept having to recharge it when it went down. The local Sears store closed here, but I was told Kmart would honor the warranty. I went in and they said they would replace it free as long as they had a battery in stock. The battery they had was the same number except for last part it looked like to me only difference was the replacement battery they offered had lower CCA then the original one. It was free so I took it and installed it and it seems to work fine, but I have noticed lately not every time, but randomly the clock resets by itself and randomly I have noticed a faint burning smell when I pull car in garage I open the hood and no smell seems to come from battery.
My question is if this replacement battery was not exactly the same can it cause a fire ? I wouldn't think the new battery is more powerful since it has lower CCA ? but ? any thoughts from anyone ? thanks for the feedback :)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 14, 2014, 12:38 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Re: NEW BATTERY TOO BIG ?
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Batteries are categorized as group size. One ground size will be the same in all brands. I believe yours will take either a group 58 or group 65.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gcoulter
Novice
Apr 14, 2014, 1:04 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Re: NEW BATTERY TOO BIG ?
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Great info so if the battery I got is the same group size I am good. Thanks for the reply Hope you have a great day !
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 14, 2014, 9:55 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Re: NEW BATTERY TOO BIG ?
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Faint burning odor and clock resets! Is this even held down in place?
CCA can be a paradox far beyond any K-Mart and not always the bigger the better for long life. DANG THING STILL HAS TO FIT EXACTLY RIGHT.
Side note on CCA: IMO sometimes same size/dimensions of a battery listing more CCA is a perfect fit but as said it's my opinion that the plates are so close to add more unseen inside they are more likely to fail. They still have to fit properly, mounted securely and terminals cleaned at time of changing out as well as at least the rated CCA minimum for the vehicle....
T
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gcoulter
Novice
Apr 15, 2014, 5:05 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Re: NEW BATTERY TOO BIG ?
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I did some checking and my current battery is a group 65- model diehard 50965. Yes I did have problem getting it in as the terminal connector wasn't wanting to tighten on battery post but then I realized the further down the post closer to battery I went it would tighten so I feel it is pretty tight in there now.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 15, 2014, 6:44 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Re: NEW BATTERY TOO BIG ?
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Group 65 is the size dimensions and should be an exact fit for how it's help in place which is critical.
Notes in general: Top posts are lead (the metal) and tapered. Pos+ is larger than Neg- post. U-Bolts once lead you could work with a bit better.
The current more common band U-clamps are just a bit fussier or can break more easily. When you can't bottom down either style you stretch it open more. If the tightening bolt is messed up you get another or work with it. Some from just cleaning posts and the U-bolt clamps might now touch ends of the clamp such that it tightens that bolt but isn't tight to post. Long gone are lead shims to make the post larger again. Real lead clamps you could file away some material so it was tight before the clamp ends touched.
For myself I'm happy when these are snug, clean and can't be twisted when done on the post as that's just definitely a problem down the road or right away.
These clamps can just corrode so some places or people will get a temporary clamp end, strip back the cut off cable and can go but it's hack and not finished with most of those. They do sell excellent end splices now have to hunt for ones that are permanent.
If somehow it's not fitting clamps or hold-down parts and can touch hood that NG and has to be fixed properly.
Wildly neglected is to use some grease, any but dielectic (a silicone basically) lasts best but even WD-40 type product is better than nothing but must be done more often. Nobody does this routinely so many are a mess and you have it now.
In short you can end up with what you think it a tight clamp and it's NOT. You have those symptoms if clock resets it's not much different than unhooking the battery for a nanosecond it could do that but still start up the car!? There's a huge and quick draw when you ask for the starter motor which could heat up a weak connection and work or make worse before you could open hood for any evidence so that is why it should prove it is tight by twisting on it and they shouldn't just with pliers or better "battery pliers" specifically useful for batteries and other things too most wouldn't own for one job.
Some of these quick and while you wait places have a stock of junk (IMO) for when hold-down bolts break or the clamps break which again IMO is hacking it to get you on your way but a problem down the road or for next battery replacement.
I think the pos+ cable is complicated at the starter motor end on this car. If the clamp at battery is in trouble seek out a proper new clamp splice, crimped again with new but not the $1-2 buck things. Used to be easy to get good ones. Just a month ago say some "decent" permanent cable ends at a WallyWorld of all places but not all of that chain place even sells batteries or anything to do with them around me. NAPA used to be able to at least order really nice stuff but that's failing too.
Whole correct cables may be the only solution and some may not be so cheap or easy especially at the starter motor end.
Remember to have neg- post off if dealing with anything with power such as at the starter. Don't let tools touch other metal either way but if they did if neg- is off it should avoid problems and put that one back on last when all done.
Helps to used a "memory" saver (different types so ask at outlets) for what suits you. Know you should disable any hood light for batteries that are under the hood and not open doors or use any car power till done. Not doing that can and will reset things, set off alarms, radios may need to be reprogramed and a host of other possible headaches up to the car won't run properly for a while or with a procedure to relearn settings for how it runs slowly adjusting to a car with slight issues that computer has adjusted and goes back to a default.
More to this than meets the eye at a glance and sadly the most popular battery places don't always have a clue either,
T
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