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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 3:06 PM
Post #1 of 20
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Ignition Switch trouble
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I have a 2003 chevy silverado 1500 with a 4.8 v8. The problem started out of the blue, it would not start. i jumped the starter to get it going and back home. while driving it i noticed that the transmission would not shift out of 3rd gear in the drive position, and the ac blower was not working. The next day it started up fine, so i went to pick up my daughter from school and out of the blue, while waiting in line, the blower quit working again, also the check engine light, abs light, and emergency brake light came on. as we where on the way home i discovered the transmission was not shifting again. I checked the codes once i got home and had 5 transmission electrical codes. after checking fuses and relays i can to the ignition switch, i found that i was only getting power at the battery positive wire with switch off, normal. I switched to the run position and was only getting power to the dash/radio, and the ruining lights. these 2 wires are beside the battery hot wire. however none of the other 4 wires going to the switch where getting power in any position including the start position. that being said, i tried jumping the circuit and could get the a/c blower to work, and get the truck to start. I thought that i had found the problem, so i got a new switch and installed it and the problem did not go away. Now i am not ruling out that i got a bad switch, but i wanted to check with someone else and see if i am on the right path.
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Discretesignals
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May 7, 2015, 5:25 PM
Post #2 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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Just curious, but when you replaced the ignition switch did the part you change look like this?
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 5:27 PM
Post #3 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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yes it did
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Discretesignals
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May 7, 2015, 5:55 PM
Post #4 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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You do sound like your on the right track. The switch could be clocked wrong or there is something wrong with the lock housing gears. To prove that remove the switch and then plug it in to the electrical connector. Then turn the thumb wheel on the top to see if you can get the truck to start. It will have resistance in the crank position because it is spring loaded.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 6:00 PM
Post #5 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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I have already tried that and nothing still no start or AC blower
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 7, 2015, 6:03 PM
Post #6 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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Oh....
When you checked for power on those wires, did you use a volt meter or 12 volt test lamp? Also when you checked power to and from the switch was it plugged in?
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 6:04 PM
Post #7 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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I used a test lamp and it was plugged in
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 7, 2015, 6:11 PM
Post #8 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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Is this an LED test light or incandescent? A volt meter would be better because you get a volt reading instead of guessamating what the voltage drop is with a test lamp.
With the ignition switch in the run position:
The red wire at the ignition switch connector at pin F should make your test lamp bright.
The orange wire on pin 6 should make your test lamp bright as was on pin F.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 6:16 PM
Post #9 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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I just tested the switch with my multimeter the red wire has 12 volts the orange wire has 0 votes in any position and the red wire beside the orange wire has 6 volts
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 7, 2015, 6:19 PM
Post #10 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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How does the connector look? Any melted plastic or terminals?
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 6:19 PM
Post #11 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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nope looks good
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Discretesignals
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May 7, 2015, 6:26 PM
Post #12 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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Ok.
The connector should have letters A thru G printed on it.
red (F)
red/white(B)
Which one is 6 volts?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 7, 2015, 6:27 PM)
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 6:36 PM
Post #13 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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F
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Discretesignals
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May 7, 2015, 6:45 PM
Post #14 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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That is a problem. It should be the same voltage as B. That means you have resistance somewhere in that feed circuit.
Leave the ignition on and remove the starter relay from the junction block under the hood.
If you flip the relay over, there will be numbers under it. Find pin number 30. That relates to which terminal in the socket that pin 30 plugs into. Measure the voltage at the terminal that pin 30 plugs into. In fact measure all the terminals in the socket just in case the relay is turned.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 7, 2015, 6:46 PM)
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 6:52 PM
Post #15 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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I have battery voltage at where pin 30 plugs into and where PN 85 plugs into no voltage on the otherside at 86 487
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 7, 2015, 7:06 PM
Post #16 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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Couple of different places to head off to now.
I'd say C201 is the next easiest place to check at.
If you follow the harness from the ignition switch that goes down the column, it should end up at an inline connector. At the connector find terminal A10 (red wire). Don't unplug the connector.
It should be battery voltage with the ignition on.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 7, 2015, 7:07 PM)
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sbhbrett
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May 7, 2015, 7:14 PM
Post #17 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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going into that connector i see 2 red wires 1 goes to the B pin on the switch battery voltage the other goes to the F pin on the switch and voltage varies on it but bellow battery volts. i had some difficulty separating the connector but i am thinking that that could be the issue.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 7, 2015, 7:26 PM
Post #18 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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If you take the connector halves apart, look and make sure it doesn't have any melted or corroded pins or terminals. It would be a good idea to disconnect the battery when you go to unplug that connector.
If it looks good in there, the problem might be upstream. The only other connector in that circuit is underneath the fuse panel under the hood. They did have issues with those corroding and coming loose. C1 under the box is grey and the red wire is on pin B12 if you end up in there.
It would be kind of rare for the wiring between the fuse box and the inline connector under the column to have issues, unless someone poked holes in the wire or spliced in something where corrosion could occur.
Gotta hit the hay, but it looks like your on the hunt. Let us know if you hit pay dirt or need more info.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 7, 2015, 7:34 PM)
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sbhbrett
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May 8, 2015, 9:05 AM
Post #19 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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well I got the connectors apart when I check voltage on the blade side I had battery voltage I plug the connectors back in and still had battery voltage up to the switch I tried to crank it and the voltage on the switch Pin drop the voltage to 0 when I release the key switch from the crank position voltage only came back up to 8 volts. I am Not sure where to go from there it sounds to me like there's a short further down the line at the main fuse box under the hood.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 8, 2015, 4:45 PM
Post #20 of 20
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Re: Ignition Switch trouble
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You don't have a short. What you have is excessive resistance somewhere in the feed circuit dropping the voltage before it gets to the ignition switch. The drop is only going to occur when the circuit is functional, so when you disconnect things or take the load away your not going to see the drop.
Like I mentioned the only other connector is up underneath the fuse box under the hood. If everything looks good at the in line connector, you'll probably be lifting the fuse block to check that out.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 8, 2015, 4:46 PM)
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