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Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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mbaker14
New User
Oct 18, 2020, 7:58 AM
Post #1 of 7
(1327 views)
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Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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1990 Ford F-150, 5.8L with approximately 150k miles
Recently had a few issues with getting my vehicle to start. Replaced an old battery about 3 months ago, and that solved the issue until yesterday. Started right up, drove to the hardware store, where it refused to start once I left.
The tow truck driver was nice enough to do a very quick diagnostic when he arrived, and was able to "jump" it by "bypassing" the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. He said that it was most likely bad, and if I was able to replace that, I should be off and running.
This morning I replaced the starter solenoid with no luck. I verified all of the wires were replaced in the proper spots. Could there be another issue? Is there a chance the new solenoid I installed is defective?
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2020, 8:18 AM
Post #2 of 7
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Re: Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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I take it there was zero response when you tried to start it? The "Solenoid's" job is to make the final connection from battery to starter up on usually a fender + close to battery rather than right at the starter motor. If by-passing it (tow driver probably didn't just jumped the "trigger" wire) wasn't getting power to the solenoid.
Within months of 1990 all those just pushed on a threaded barbed stud sticking out if removed wouldn't try to crank or if worn.
What issue exactly are you having? If it's that you replace that connection if it worked jumping it NOT the solenoid itself so IDK why, what driver did worked yet nor do you perhaps.
If just a push on elbow, try pinching it carefully with pliers so it's stronger to bite into contact. OK to Q-Tip a smear of lube on that but it shouldn't just fall off easily if so now??
Just reading minds remotely what happened, the driver took a plain screwdriver went from battery side of solenoid to trigger wire stud and off you went. That screams that that wire or elbow is messed up to me NOT the solenoid the old one worked for him/her!
Starter worked too apparently. Hope you kept the original solenoid it's probably better than the new one I'd put it back. Failure of those is almost never but could just not the way you described it.
New battery is helpful you had more power than the same of an old one was enough to cover the flaw - smacks of just that wire as said - try fixing it as said,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2020, 8:48 AM
Post #3 of 7
(1320 views)
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Re: Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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Remove all the battery cable ends and wire brush them. That mean at the battery, solenoid and at the starter. These old Fords had a very common problem with the connection and these locations with no visible indications.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2020, 8:55 AM
Post #4 of 7
(1315 views)
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Re: Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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Yes - that too. 1990 or so may be lead (Pb) U-Bolts or thin sheet metal bands do the same. The lead type works better if good but not when/if the gap of open "horse-shoe" of those touches it will never get tight. IF so there are shims or cable ends must get good ones.
The road call trick wasn't there at all though. New battery the top posts are just fatter being new seems to help wasn't the primary problem as I read this??
In short - all this stuff is routine to check, clean and keep an eye on just nobody does till a failure and that' s where we/you are at,
Tom
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mbaker14
New User
Oct 18, 2020, 11:25 AM
Post #5 of 7
(1296 views)
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Re: Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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Thanks for the input. The battery terminals were all cleaned as a first attempt to correct the issue, so that shouldn't be the holdup. Turn the ignition to on, lights all work with no issue. When I turn to crank, I get one click (not from the solenoid itself) behind the steading column, which is the pulley setup trying to turn.
I'll have to find a way to check the wire/connection to the starter post with the push on elbow. It fits tight, but I worry that corrosion may be the issue (it's hard to see inside of it).
I have a multi meter, so I'm going to run some connectivity tests tonight to see if that turns something up. Not knowing where the other "end" of the S-cable is is a bit prohibitive, but if I find it, that would tell me if that end is no good. There isn't a lot of wire there, so I'm hesitant to cut off the end and replace it unless I know it's the issue.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Oct 18, 2020, 12:10 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Re: Engine Start Issues - 1990 F-150 5.8L
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The "one click" comment just spoke volumes - thanks. That's a cable not making a great connection - ANY OF THEM AT EITHER END. So follow on to starter for positive from that solenoid. Negative will end up with an eyelet end on bolt I think low on engine block - sorry forget which side trucks are reverse rotating from cars. {never mind that for this}
See if OE cables are nice fatter copper inside at ends may get a glance. Those are better but still pushing the years origs not unusual! If a fat spot along the way even they corrode inside.
The single click to me means just a tiny connection exists even if real tight isn't passing thru much so that, unseen tiny "touch" area gets HOT and quits passing any real AMPS (force) thru.
Some if you get it to do that with a helper pull on the ground wire it may work right away so know it's that one for now.
Still drive this old and older by a lot a tech or not one gets to know the vehicles and cars/trucks they drive the most and owned since forever.
Do remember an important rule with cables, batteries and any time you disconnect it to clean or any reason. This vintage and most anything take negative OFF first and it to be LAST to hook up at battery when finished. Reason is mostly so tools on positive don't bump metal and short out.
Lead U-bolts if they are still: Look at the bolt end if the U is touching it may be tight but not on the battery tight? Try twisting on it, it shouldn't spin at all or might and even come off. You can fix that on many I'll just say how now it's common to lead more than other types might still be good.
So take out the bolt with a fight it comes out. There are new bolts aptly called battery bolts :-) Now you need with it off and bolt out open it up more and flat file it so it has more room to tighten up and not touch. Battery terminal and U-Bolts are tapered FYI are going to be better on fully.
Just in the year found battery shims at Autozone by name are Zinc are just for this once a lead (Pb) high hat things you added to battery posts.
It's only somewhat a Ford issue hung on to U-Bolts as did others soon after 1990 went to sheet metal bands OE were junk if not greased all the time if so same issues but would be getting high end cable end splices now not whole cables so much or I don't find them anymore.
Of all places Wallyworld! Check some out not all the same stock still had lots of cable fix items even the pro parts places quit most of it!
If you want stuff this old get used to routinely spraying all now fixed and cleaned ends with a grease or paint it on with a flux brush - I like dietetic grease or marine grade doesn't wash away is Silicone and bit pricey buy better than stuck over crap like this!
Tom
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