|
|
Charge point on engine block
|
|
|
| |
|
|
rebecca3040
New User
May 23, 2015, 1:05 PM
Post #1 of 9
(1446 views)
|
|
Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
Mercedes C200 Classic W202 (V reg.)Took the battery out for an indoor charge but inadvertantly (honest) closed the boot where it is housed. Now have the charged up battery in a box on the back seat but cannot get boot open for love nor money as skeleton key inserts OK but will not turn. I have been told if we can get just enough electrical charge to a connection on the block somewhere we could operate the remote to unlock the boot , though not sure where the connections are or what is the precise procedure , the battery is fully charged and i have leads., Becky. ps i
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 23, 2015, 1:30 PM
Post #2 of 9
(1437 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
Not sure exact car is sold to the US that exact way? Not so good with Benzos either but some ideas/thoughts.
Can you open the hood (bonnet) to it? If so, starter motor's 1st solenoid connection (larger gauge wire) should always be Bat+ meaning full battery power. Engine block should be the strongest battery negative and you should be in biz if you just CAREFULLY JUMPED TO THOSE TWO SPOTS CAR should light up? Guess.
Other maybe: An on purpose double male cigar lighter jumper from power pack with 12v ports to that lighter should work but in Benzos key must be in "Run" position to empower the port - one does here. Close doors and only leave attached long enough to open trunk - totally AYOR with these cars.
Other: Are you using the wrong key or way to get into the trunk? Why are you calling it a "Skeleton Key?" I thought all used same as ignition key? Do you mean you only have a "Valet key or something?" There has to be some non powered way. What ever would you do if battery just up and died for any reason otherwise? One more, try the key upside down if cut on both sides?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
rebecca3040
New User
May 23, 2015, 1:53 PM
Post #3 of 9
(1426 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
Wish i could send some snaps but not so easy on here..the key FOB has an internal skeleton metal key which inserts in the door and turns it but its a known fault for the boot. Oh well, and yes we can open the bonnet and can see what looks like a red connection point. The battery , which is in a box on the back seat is fully charged,assume we can use that ? so if we red clip to it and then to engine block connector first ? and then negative lead to battery and earth point on a metal bracket on the block , does that sound right ? (Mercedes C200 Classic W202 , 1999
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 23, 2015, 2:05 PM
Post #4 of 9
(1423 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
Mercedes is not too helpful with exposed power points under the hood. If you can find a way to plug your battery power into the cigarette lighter you should have enough power to pop the truck. I don't understand why your emergency key won't open it though.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 23, 2015, 2:10 PM
Post #5 of 9
(1421 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
It would take a Mercedes to make an exception but yes - the #1 job of a battery and its power is to crank the engine so strongest cables go there. Negative to metal of block or bracket bolted to it. Power to first heavy (thicker) gauge wire at solenoid to starter - might be red might not?
High bet batteries get put under back seat and in trunks on these and other cars both for more room under hood and they are heavy so it puts weight where it will handle best.
Key crazies. You know you car best. One in driveway now MY-1987 E300 used an external cut key but on both sides, no chip or smarts in the key itself?
Hey - this is newer. That 1987 only had one power port that was only enabled by ignition to run position as said. That would back feed entire ignition which I really don't want. This being newer probably has a power port (same size as a cigar/cigarette lighter and may be full time battery power?
This E300 you can't charge a cell phone unless it's running - two wires to lighter socket one same color set goes to a thermometer which is wrong and both broke so just at one of these monsters just older.
Reason I suggest is so you don't fumble with stronger cables and an accidental shorting of them under hood with real battery when you could use power port to power port just don't open door and turn everything electrical off! If anything that should only blow a fuse if screwed up somehow. They sell that stuff just for that and charging dead batteries. I'd rather you used a power port from a battery not another whole car with some unknowns involved,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
rebecca3040
New User
May 23, 2015, 2:55 PM
Post #6 of 9
(1413 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
I will try and think of connecting something from battery to cigarette lighter socket, thankyou
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 23, 2015, 8:53 PM
Post #7 of 9
(1402 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
They sell these at many parts outlets or this from Amazon/Autozone............
This is also what I meant for a double male port to port extension..........
 Pictures may have attitude and not show above or expire? ^^^^^
Those are sold with polarity correct and some with surge protectors, switches just on and off etc. for slow jumper cables. Know that most have low amp fuses inside tip as the tip is hot if plugged into power you can't touch it to ground.
You really need to think and not use much power if you do this. This really doesn't power up a whole vehicle and can't be stronger than the fuse for the port in the low or dead battery (this case no battery) car.
You may not know easily if it made a connection? Perhaps interior lights would come on? That also could be too much draw for this stuff and blow a fuse unseen.
AGAIN: Not all power ports are empowered unless key is in "RUN" position for cars. In doing that you also enable ignition, dash warning lights, fuel pump and other things and shouldn't be left that way or might instantly blow a fuse in the double male jumper wire and rightfully should.
Note that this port is a size based on cigar/cigarette lighters and many on cars now are just ports not for lighters and much better for connections. Your 1999 may have both types or one or more for the rear passengers?
Duh - folks power all sorts of things with these ports or for charging devices to "inverting" power to 110 AC power or probably the Euro power pin type which I think is 220 AC ??
Know what items are going to do what you desire and are properly protected. Cars are near universally 12v DC world wide with negative ground.
Just FYI the center of a female power port is positive, outside shell negative and male the point is positive, sides are negative,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on May 23, 2015, 9:28 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
rebecca3040
New User
May 24, 2015, 2:46 AM
Post #8 of 9
(1389 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks for your advice Tom, i think you are right when you say the key position has to be in the RUN position to enable anything to work off the cigarette lighter switch , that is the case with our car. I was just hoping that as we would be supplying power to the socket ,with an input source , i.e. , the battery, as opposed to drawing from it , it might switch on the dash electrics? and enable to turn key to ON position? At the moment with the car being "dead" thats not possible.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 24, 2015, 4:19 AM
Post #9 of 9
(1385 views)
|
|
Re: Charge point on engine block
|
Sign In
|
|
OK -If you have just one power port/cigarette lighter AND it only works when key is in "run" then by back powering it with this set up it MIGHT be too much draw for it to energize engine to be ready to start (don't try to start it) and blow the car's fuse. Again, that's "At Your Own Risk" with this car in particular. Many others I know it would work without the ignition deal.
Because of that I'd rather see you jump from that charged battery from the hood to starter solenoid as said from open hood or from underside if you can't open hood.
I'm still surprised that by this model it doesn't have a full time power port or a combo of both?
If this is really not clear to you get some help. It can be done without harming anything,
T
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2011 Dodge Nitro OBD scanner seems to drain battery in 10-20 minutes
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
