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Car Horn Replacement issues.


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Richardrichard9
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Jul 1, 2012, 11:30 PM

Post #1 of 6 (997 views)
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I am trying to replace the horn on my 2004 Dodge Stratus.

The connections are not lining up. The new one I got from Auto zone has two far spaced apart connections (as are most that I find online), but the one that came out of my car has different connections. I will try to link pictures below to see what I mean. Any help?

Replacement


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Sidom
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Jul 2, 2012, 1:32 AM

Post #2 of 6 (964 views)
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Re: Car Horn Replacement issues. [In reply to] Sign In

To get the AM part to work, you would need to cut the OE connecter off and splice new connecters onto the wires to fit the new horn.......

Before you cut up the factory harness, I would check with the dealer on the price of an OE horn, if the price is even barely close I would opt for OE.....

Just a side note, are you sure you have a bad horn & not an electrical problem?






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Richardrichard9
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Jul 2, 2012, 1:38 AM

Post #3 of 6 (960 views)
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Thanks for your response. I am 99% sure it is a horn problem. The horn sounds similar to chewbacca, and if I hold it for a while (variable between 10-15 seconds), it begins to sound like a cow mooing.


Sidom
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Jul 2, 2012, 1:43 AM

Post #4 of 6 (957 views)
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Yea that doesn't sound good. More than likely its bad.........If you know which wire is the power, you can get a couple of wires & check it by use the battery & tapping the wires real quick to see what it sounds like but it sure sounds like it's bad......






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Richardrichard9
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Jul 2, 2012, 1:50 AM

Post #5 of 6 (951 views)
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Could you explain that to me a little bit more? Like external wires hooked up to the battery? How would I hook them to the battery?

Thanks for all your help! Mechanical problems in a car are more what I am used to, not good (and a bit scared) of the electrical stand point!


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jul 2, 2012, 7:20 AM

Post #6 of 6 (933 views)
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Re: Car Horn Replacement issues. [In reply to] Sign In

#1 Clean up the dishes Richardrichard!Wink #2 Sorry for jumping on this Sidom but bet you shut off puter for the night.


Jumper wire pre made with alligator clips at each end available in lots of stores - even WallyWorld for less than $2 bucks and an LED test light for about $5-6 bucks to test the OE plug end of vehicle for which or both being power and the ground is probably the metal bar connected to body metal and that extra black wire is probably a ground for new horn if it was to be connected to something plastic which wouldn't be ground. To be safest and best fused jumpers in line with jumper wires that hold assorted fuse amps would be optimal but you can end up spending more on assorted test stuff than the horn should be worth.

Guessing but the two wire plug is either for mixing tones OR one for just a chirp for some vehicles with remotes that chirp when doors locked, alarms on or off or whatever.

Replacement sure appears to be universal for a variety of applications with common male spade connectors which are available and insulated and would crimp on to stripped end of wire. Not the best for exposed wiring so should be sealed up with either liquid electrical tape (brush in cap stuff) or at least greased up which will make soldering up a connection a real pest if wanted later.

Testing IMO should include testing the old rusted one cleaning up the stud part with enough corrosion that whole thing has a very weak ground and test again grounding it at that threaded stud not the nut which may not remove without breaking.

Autozone just might test this out for you at the counter,

T
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