Battery has 12.64 volts but truck has no electrical power

If I jostle the positive battery cable it will start. Sometimes it takes a few tries. When I turn the key I hear a click coming from the starter relay or starter solenoid mounted on the driver side fender. After the click none of my lights will turn on. If I jostle the positive cable terminal the solenoid clicks again, and it usually starts when I turn the key again.

Thats a perfect indicator that you have a junk cable.



The cables were corroded so I figured that was the problem.

I'm with you there.


I replaced the terminals on both battery cables and cut the wire back to expose clean copper, and cleaned the posts.


NOT with you there. This sounds like you put bolt on cheapo terminal ends on this and that is a very bad idea. Those things are pure garbage and invite nothing but electrical issues. Never ever use that crap. If they were any good, Ford would've put them on from the factory and saved a bunch of cash.


I replaced the cable going from the positive post to the starter relay as well with 10 gauge cable. After doing this I had no power what so-ever.


How this didn't start on fire I don't know. You put 10 gauge cable where a minimum of 4 gauge should be. It cannot handle the amperage load. So you get....


Lights will not even turn on. My volt meter reads 12.64 on the battery between positive and negative posts. I also read 12.64 between negative battery post and positive cable on the starting relay. I have 12.64 volts between the positive battery post and the intake manifold, as well as spark with a wire held to each of those points. I also have 12.64 volts on the starter where the positive battery cable connects and zero voltage drop between positive battery post and positive post on the starter relay. Voltage between positive battery post and alternator casing reads 3+ volts.




The cable going to the starter relay was initially 8 gauge so I reinstalled the cable with 8 gauge thinking I may not have enough amps but it did not change anything.



You reinstalled a defective cable. It doesn't matter what gauge it is. It cannot carry the load. It is no better than a 10 gauge.

I installed a brand new ignition switch, and the starter is about 2 years old. I checked all of the fuses in the e-box under the hood as well as the panel on the side of the dash. Currently I have no power what so ever. Nothing works. Help will be greatly appreciated.



Help is here. Throw away those cables. For the age of this. I think you should toss the ground cable too. Nice premade ones are at the parts store for pretty cheap. Made sure to clean the places they bolt to nice and shiny and coat with dielectric grease to hold off future corrosion. Also have your battery load tested while at the parts store. A battery can show full charge and fail while loaded.

In Reply To

Thanks for the response! I really appreciate it. I will swap the cables for new ones momentarily although I think you are mistaken that it will be the fix. I will let you know though. I agree about the clamp on terminals being crap. I initially bought new cables from NAPA and the positive did not reach the starter. Went back to Napa and they said that their computer showed the same size they sold me. As far as the 8 gauge cable I put in, it was brand new and it replaced an 8 gauge cable that was factory installed. The 4 gauge goes to the starter on the other side of the engine, the 8 gauge goes to the starter solenoid about 10 inches away. The problem with the cables from Napa is that the lead coming off the cable which I would use to go to the starter solenoid is only 12 gauge. Even if I connected an 8 gauge cable to it the whole cable would have to be regarded as 12 gauge which would lower the amps/increase resistance, which is why I used those crappy clamps and connected a BRAND NEW 8 gauge cable along with the existing 4 gauge cable to the positive post. I called Ford and they don't sell the cable anymore. Given that info do you still think I should get a new cable from the parts store with the 12 gauge lead or make my own with 4 gauge and 8 gauge?
Thanks again,


(This post was edited by jeremy0000 on Apr 26, 2014, 1:48 PM)

You are correct on all counts. It sound like you may have blown a fusible link or forgot to hook one up. The links should be attached to the solenoid near the battery.

That's correct. They all go onto the main terminal except the starter trigger wire goes to the "S" terminal.