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BigYetiD
New User
Nov 29, 2021, 9:08 PM
Post #1 of 6
(1916 views)
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2017 Yukon XL No Start
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I have a 2017 GMC Yukon XL SLT 4WD 5.3L, the non-Flex Fuel one. It has 87,000 miles on it.
About 2 weeks ago, My wife went out to start it and it would not start, no crank, no battery clicking at all. I have one those battery chargers that tells you if the battery is bad so I hooked it up and it did not right away say anything was wrong with it but after about 4 hours charging it showed it as a bad battery. So, I replaced the battery and it started right up. Awesome! I drove it around for about 15 minutes and it seemed all good. Well, later that day we went to use it and it did not start. Same thing, no attempt at turning over, no battery clicking, nothing.
I got out my multi-meter and tested the continuity on the battery between the positive post and the mega fuse thing that has the posts for the cables for the starter and what not. All had continuity. I then checked all the fuses and relays in the fuse box in the engine compartment, they all seemed ok.
So I figured at that point it was the starter. When we bought the vehicle it was used and we were talked into one of those extended warranty things. I looked at that and it stated that electrical stuff was covered, all we had to do was get it to one of their shops. I didn't know what to do, so I had my wife try starting it as I was tapping on the starter relay in the fuse box (saw it on a youtube video). And it started! I thought maybe it is just the relay, but my wife wanted to take it in anyways since it was paid for other than a deductible.
The mechanic called the next day and said it was the starter. I asked if he was sure even after I told him about the relay thing, and he was absolutely positive.
Here we are today, Wife picks up Yukon from shop with brand new Starter and it starts and drives home great. She called me an hour later saying it wont start again. I was still in town (we live half an hour away from car stores and dealers) and sped over to the local GMC dealer before they closed and bought a starter relay. I threw that in when I got home and still nothing.
I don't know what to do at this point. Now I can't even get it started again, no clicking, no attempt to turn over. The lights seem nice and bright when we push the button to turn it over and all the dash instruments come, door dings work, interior lights work, radio works.
I am at a loss. Going to call warranty place tomorrow but I am worried if they say to send it to the same place. Plus now I have to have it towed.
Sorry so long. TLDR:
Yukon XL: No Start
New Battery
New Starter
New Starter Relay
Still No Start
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2021, 2:33 AM
Post #2 of 6
(1891 views)
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Re: 2017 Yukon XL No Start
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I may have missed something in that - sorry if so.
It started right up with a new battery that YOU did. It lasts so long and quits is consistent with it not charging back up to the point of no reaction.
IDK what happened with the starter job but would think charging battery would be part of that so I'll aim that way for now.
Age of batteries in vehicles: They plain age via flaking inside by time alone so marked on case whey they are made. 1st ones can and will behave with normal use for 4-5 years so if so was due.
Begs the question why it alone didn't work? A: While croaking (forget those cheap color meters please) the last times it worked it was killing the charging system or at least hard on it. Heat to try begins to ruin an assortment of things it's working so hard also causes it to speed up wrecking what's left of old battery.
In order check charging system output with the time frames of going "flat-dead" a perfect battery would run itself out.
FYI - it's lead/acid not like all other batteries we have it harms itself going low and rapid recharge. A veritable bouncing ball that never bounces as high each time but close.
Add in cold as applicable the AMP rating drops like a rock all things good can be 1/2 or less of it's rating.
Spare the whole thing for now that's most likely the up front issue next is when going again I'd be checking for a parasitic draw in excess of 50 mAh as per testing procedures locked here above. It draws more right away shutting down or just turned off so wait and defeat hood light(s) and any other known items that come on for the testing.
That shop should have suspected that but wasn't the up front problem IDK if starter was needed or killed by all this and guess we will not know?
T
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BigYetiD
New User
Nov 30, 2021, 7:39 AM
Post #4 of 6
(1870 views)
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Re: 2017 Yukon XL No Start
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Thank you responding, but if I am reading you correct, are you saying my new battery is already dead? If I charge it up will it be ok? Or did we kill it all together by testing all this stuff and cranking it a bunch of times by sufficiently charging it up?
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BigYetiD
New User
Nov 30, 2021, 7:42 AM
Post #5 of 6
(1868 views)
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Re: 2017 Yukon XL No Start
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I got out my multi-meter and tested the continuity on the battery between the positive post and the mega fuse thing that has the posts for the cables for the starter and what not. All had continuity. That doesn't prove you had sufficient connection to carry starter current. You can have as little as one strand of cable and pass that test but it will never start the car. The proper way to test that is doing a "voltage drop" test. Hook up your meter to the same locations but set it to volts. Now try to crank the engine while watching the meter. You should see less that 1 volt. If you see more than that you have a connection problem.
Thank you, I will test that out today.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2021, 8:01 AM
Post #6 of 6
(1860 views)
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Re: 2017 Yukon XL No Start
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BigYetiD:
> Continuity = "It makes a connection. A hair of wire would isn't going to even trigger the starter motor's solenoid.
> A starter motor is the largest draw of power a battery must do just FYI. Measured power is in AMPs is what batteries are rated for.
> Being lead/acid vs sealed other things we use it's flooded with electrolyte (wet acid) between lead plates. That electrolyte allows flakes to drop thru it to bottom as battery degrades. It degrades lots faster if overcharged or runs too low on range it will work and put out those AMPs.
> The constant cycle of too low to charging up fast is very damaging to most and quickly to some. You can test for that.
What this smacks of i lay speak is a cable or cable end with a very weak connection in sight or inside insulation was over stressed, trauma or damage? It might show heat was there on insulation or maybe stretchy in a spot/area.
Items that use power that's not up to spec will be damaged. Seems strange but low power delivered makes a hot spot hidden or seen if not test for it.
Hope that helps if just to understand what can happen and does out there,
T
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