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2005 Mazda 3 won't start or jumpstart


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seanprokopec
New User

Mar 4, 2016, 10:02 AM

Post #1 of 4 (1746 views)
post icon 2005 Mazda 3 won't start or jumpstart Sign In

Work up in the morning after a cold night and my car attempted to start but wouldn't. The interior lights and dash lights cone on but there doesn't seem to be enough juice to start. I had replaced the battery about 6 months prior so I'm hoping the battery is okay. I tried to jumpstart it but as soon as I hooked the cables to the dead battery it caused the interior lights to go out and I get no action when trying to start. About 2 minutes after removing the cables the interior lights come back on.

Has anyone else had a similar experience or if anyone knows what the potential problem could be I would be greatful for the help!!

Sean


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 4, 2016, 10:14 AM

Post #2 of 4 (1741 views)
Re: 2005 Mazda 3 won't start or jumpstart Sign In

1st it sounds like you left something on overnight - is that possible?
If cold enough and battery dead enough for any reason, defect, lack of car charging system working, or something left on - even a glove box light will take one down sometimes you risk freezing a battery meaning the liquid inside (electrolyte) if discharged freezes solid and can ruin the battery up to cracking it open but takes some real cold temps and time. If anything lit up probably not but now check for something left on first then charge that battery with a charger not jumping it as it's too low now,


T



seanprokopec
New User

Mar 4, 2016, 10:34 AM

Post #3 of 4 (1736 views)
Re: 2005 Mazda 3 won't start or jumpstart Sign In

About 3 weeks ago I had a similar problem, where after a cold night it wouldn't start first thing in the morning but I was then able to boost in later that day. I don't think I left anything on overnight as I've only been using the car slightly, about 15 min drive each day to and from work. I took out the main relay and starter relay to warm up as I read that in cold temperatures they can freeze up. The biggest thing I don't understand is why when I connect boost cables all the electronics shut off completely. I am going to bring the battery inside and put on charge to see if that helps.


(This post was edited by seanprokopec on Mar 4, 2016, 10:49 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 4, 2016, 12:05 PM

Post #4 of 4 (1726 views)
Re: 2005 Mazda 3 won't start or jumpstart Sign In

Quote:">>I took out the main relay and starter relay to warm up as I read that in cold temperatures they can freeze up.<<"


Who on earth told you that!!
Understand the system: Battery is to start the car then your alternator/charging system is actually doing the electrical work from then on AFTER it put back into the battery what it took to start it - not much most of the time so would be fully back in just a few minutes with usual fast starting engines.
So also know battery is plate of metal in electrolyte (an acid liquid) that how many and how much makes up the potential CCA or Cold Cranking Amps (power of the thing) when it's 32F vs more when say 75F might rate almost double the power but not need it as much when warmer as engine turns easier then. So how cold is cold? I live in New England so used to well below zero F. for the one I drive most and can tell it doesn't like that as much but no issue at all as it should be, this Winter had one -14F windy night so it was totally cold, battery, engine and all. So guess is my 850CCA battery was a lot lower than the 850CCA of 32F -- do you get the idea?
If even new battery (they aren't fully charged up new!) was dropped, a real cheapo, drained low for any reason or worse 100% dead it harms it. If say in the 20s F. or so that electrolyte can freeze but you had something so it would need to be lots colder than temps you need to say it was exposed to.
To check it you need a charger first. I'm not so thrilled with the freebie checks but go for it if you wish at places like Autozone or others that will advertise free battery checks newer or not no matter where you got it.
You can do this yourself if you charge the battery as said with even a slow charger currently one at Home Centers like exactly Home Depot 2AMP auto charger/maintainer is now $30 so little excuse not to own one.
Once charged now just read the voltage of the thing at the battery AFTER charger is done. Should read about 12.6V just setting there or close. Higher if charger just quit but not much.
If while cranking with a voltmeter on battery the voltage should not drop below about 9V and bet you see it fall much lower. If battery charger was really done and could be that battery doesn't have the CCA anymore OR need to go on to checking voltage drops of battery cables to starter from battery on to starter for positive and negative from battery on to engine block that they are clean and later for checking how well the carry the power.
You have all the symptoms of just a low battery - very low! It's also damaging as said even if not cracked it's not like your phone or things going low makes it flake way too much and even once can ruin a good one! Probably not but know it isn't made to run low - rather work only off the full charge ability hopefully once to start then just be there for the ride.
So you need a charger first and should have one anyway. Jumping cars is always best with wildly expensive jumper boxes or with another vehicle and again wildly expensive cables most would never pay the price for - $200+ easy! Not the crap that's sold everywhere for pocket change. That can work with a running donor car (AYOR) attached for maybe an hour - can't know for sure how long or how well and risk the donor car's charging system.
Your car went dead enough any features if it does start would be nuts. Alarms, delay lighting, sound system settings or anything you programmed into something messed up for a while including memory of codes, and the computer that knows how to run the engine best usually has to re-learn once all is fine for some time.
Already a book on this - sorry. It's also real hard on YOUR alternator to charge if it did start with just a jump to finish charging up the battery if it was good and might be so follow what I said and you should know if it's OK or there's more to check out,


T







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