|
|
2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
|
|
| |
|
|
Sporttrac2003
New User
Jun 23, 2015, 7:03 AM
Post #1 of 12
(1427 views)
|
|
2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
Hello,
I've been having an ongoing issues with my truck and hoping I can find some guidance here.
2003
Ford
Explorer Sporttrac XLT
4.0 SOHC
110,000 miles
My issues started about 6 months ago when I went to start my truck and nothing happen. It jumped off fine and I drove it for a while with no problems. Gradually over a week, I could tell it was getting harder to start. Then the inevitable happen, next morning it would not start. I replaced the battery and everything was fine for a while, but it happened again after sitting in my driving for a few days. At this point, I took it to a mechanic and they kept for about a week, running all kinds of tests. They told me they could not find anything wrong and that the alternator failed a test only one time.
I had them replaced the alternator just due to the fact in was 12 years old. Thing is, was still having same problem. It would be fine for a few days, then not start, but, I started get the clicking when trying to start. Then, I decided to replaced the starter. Still having same issue. Just other other day I replaced the plug and wires. Again, same issue still exists.
I have been testing the battery every morning and getting 11.5 volts after it sits over night. I have been looking for a parasitic draw, but can not find any evidence of that.
Yesterday, after testing the battery and receiving the usual 11.5 volts, the truck would not start again. I decided to test the battery again. This time I was only getting 9.7 volts, after just one attempt at starting. Of course, then, I jumped it off and tested the battery right away (within 2 minutes of starting) and I had 12.5 volts. I don't if that is normal, but seemed odd to me.
One other thing I did notice. When I took the ground lead off the battery while it was running, I noticed that idle on the truck smoothed out considerably. Now, I don't know if that is normal, just felt that it was noteworthy.
I'm not sure avenue to take from here. I really don't want to continue to fork money over for testing and parts when it seems no one can isolate the issue.
Any advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 7:45 AM
Post #2 of 12
(1411 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
Quote">>They told me they could not find anything wrong and that the alternator failed a test only one time.<<"
Once ever is too many times. New one isn't charging or wasn't the problem. 12.5 is substandard for a running engine, it isn't charging.
Starter had nothing to do with this so that was a waste. OK - Look for a charged battery just sitting there to read 12.6 if accurate enough. When running should never drop below 13V or above ~15V.
Parasitic draw - not yet. It isn't charging - new one fails or wire to it could be bad or other. Not so sure test of first one was accurate about now either. Simple volts not running AFTER a waiting period and when RUNNING are telling.
Other is running a battery low a few times is hard on both battery and alternator and can blow both. Charge batteries with charger not the alternator when at all possible. Jump starts fine but just to move the vehicle to charge it with a charger or you really can play Ping-Pong with new alternators and batteries till the cows come home. Either can be defective new as well,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 7:47 AM
Post #3 of 12
(1409 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running?
What was your parasitic draw measurement that you got?
Don't disconnect the battery with the engine running on modern vehicles. Good way to spike the solid state electronics in the computer modules. If you have charging voltage showing on your volt meter with the engine running, you don't have to disconnect the battery to find out if an alternator is working.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 9:11 AM
Post #5 of 12
(1401 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
14.47V w engine running is fine. IMO draw OK depending on how tested for now. Connections and battery itself should be tested and right. Bet is battery is junk,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 10:02 AM
Post #6 of 12
(1395 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
.2mA (0.2mA)? You sure that is right? Did you make sure the fuse isn't blown in your meter? Basically you have zero milliamps. There should be more than that due to keep alive memory and other modules on standby.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 11:23 AM
Post #8 of 12
(1387 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
You're reading that wrong. That is .2amps which is 200 ma.
You're open door draw is over 3 amps which is over 3000ma.
200ma is way too much.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 2:40 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1374 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
Check you meter against something known. Now your results for volts only show totally normal and inconsistent with have an issue?
There is a draw of about no more than 50Ma when vehicle is at rest NOT just when shut off as it goes to sleep kinda in 10 or more minutes. Always some low draw. How are you testing this?
If constantly taking off battery cable way now it's suggesting your cable ends are messing you up. Check power both at the post and at the "U" bolt for differences may show a flaw?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 4:58 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1363 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
50ma or less is acceptable but you have to give all the times time to expire first. Every time you disconnect the battery, open a door or turn the ignition on, you start the timers all over again. Some cars can take as long as 45 minutes for all modules to go to sleep.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 23, 2015, 4:59 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 23, 2015, 5:01 PM
Post #12 of 12
(1358 views)
|
|
Re: 2003 Explorer Sporttrac - Electrical/Starting Issue
|
Sign In
|
|
I've seen some of those timers on the newer Fords stay active for more than an hour. You could be chasing a ghost if your not positive all the modules went to sleep.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Tierod end change caused some kind of leak
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
