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Sterring wheel vibration and brake squeaks from 2000 Toyota corolla


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iyrrj
User

Jul 19, 2010, 8:54 PM

Post #1 of 5 (2536 views)
Sterring wheel vibration and brake squeaks from 2000 Toyota corolla Sign In

Hi

I have a 2000 Corolla that has 140 K miles on it and it a stick shift. These days I am feeling a very mild vibration on the steering wheel. I had this problem about 4-5 months ago. I believe I had replace the left side front brake pad that time. It was much worse then. Now a days, I see 2 distinct things

1) When I lightly tap on the brakes I get a squeaking sound ( for lack of a better comparison like birds chirping). I am also biased that it is coming from the left front side ( may because the driver sits there ). I don't think I see a any steering when vibration now.

2) When I apply breaks half the way I see vibration in the steering wheel. There is a different squeaking sound. However, when I apply brakes fully, it seems to me that I feel much less vibration in the steering wheel.

Does any body have a clue as to what is wrong?

Thanks
Raja


Sidom
Veteran / Moderator
Sidom profile image

Jul 19, 2010, 9:13 PM

Post #2 of 5 (2530 views)
Re: Sterring wheel vibration and brake squeaks from 2000 Toyota corolla Sign In

Sounds like your brk rotors may be slightly warped and the pads are squeeking. The squeeking could just be dust or glazing but it could also be at the wear sensors.

You are probably going to want to check them out to make sure they aren't worn. If they are, then replace the pads and have the rotors turned and that should take care of both problems in one shot............


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 20, 2010, 6:58 AM

Post #3 of 5 (2525 views)
Re: Sterring wheel vibration and brake squeaks from 2000 Toyota corolla Sign In

Quote">>I had this problem about 4-5 months ago. I believe I had replace the left side front brake pad that time.<<"

WHAT! If not a typo you really just replaced one pad on one side?! If one side has a problem you do both sides and inspect everything about it. When one side is worn and another on same axle isn't there's more to it than just pads which is still hackery if that's all that was replaced,

T



iyrrj
User

Jul 20, 2010, 8:26 AM

Post #4 of 5 (2522 views)
Re: Sterring wheel vibration and brake squeaks from 2000 Toyota corolla Sign In

Sidom,
Thanks for the help. Will surely check if the pads are worn off.

Tom,
Thanks for the response. You might be right. It is probably a typo. I now remember that new tires were put. I very vaguely remember ( I really don't know what I am talking about) something like a brake pad also replaced. However, I am not sure. I seem to have lost the receipt for the repair as well. Any new ideas ?


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 20, 2010, 9:06 AM

Post #5 of 5 (2515 views)
Re:00 Corolla steering vibration and brake squeaks Sign In

OK: Reading between the line you've sent this out to be done. Most folks don't keep tire machines hanging around but several will take on brakes.

Know that front brakes are near always disc with two pads each. Rears are more common to be discs as well but some drum brakes are still around and nothing wrong with that.

The deal is: If you do something to one side you should do the identical job on the other so they match with few exceptions with brakes. Using old rotors without machining them if they have enough metal left for that is a minimum but new for a car like this is much better. There isn't a lot of extra metal to machine off much and the thinner they get the more apt they are to warp. Just new pads thrown in may contact the rotor a tad more than the old ones did and be in a defect area. They mate to match as they wear so the new ones automatically don't match the rotor exactly. They can even look good by eye and that's not enough. What happens is the new pad(s) are meant to contact fully as they would match the "surface area" of the rotor. When nothing is done they first only will contact a part area and can break into that and match again but that's not the professional way unless it's clear to customer that isn't good practice AND they test drive it that it does stop properly. Still don't like that but a chain adverises here that should be shot that they will do just pads - yikes!

Right now this is near certainly a warped rotor OR the caliper isn't retracting properly and it gets way too hot, wears faster too or plain can lock up and not release. This is a warning of it becoming a real safety issue IMO and needs attention and to be done correctly. If not by yourself than please find a shop you can discuss it with and get a quote so you know what it will cost. Parts prices vary even with legal parts. You decide on the best stuff or just the lower priced but legal stuff,

T







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