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Massive failure or Massive Ripoff
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veidtmeister
New User
Apr 8, 2010, 4:23 PM
Post #1 of 3
(2131 views)
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Massive failure or Massive Ripoff
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Hey guys,
My wife has a 2001 Toyota Camry, 4cyl., about 120,000. We just replaced the Timing belt and water pump about a month ago. She came home from work and declares that now we need to replace the entire brake system!! Apparently, it was making a squealing noise, and she took it back to the shop that replaced the timing belt/water pump, and they told her that her power assisted brakes are totally gone, have to be replaced for $1,100.00. The cars brakes are NOT acting up however. The squeal does go away however, when you apply the brakes while the car is sitting still??? She said the mechanic showed her a "hose" that when he "grabs it", the sound goes away? (vacuum line?)
I have a suspicion that they just didnt adjust the brakes, tensioner etc. correctly, and are trying to rip me off? I think hes showing her a vacuum line thats disconnected and speiling a story about massive brake failure...
I am currently in bed with a freaking broken back, so I cant go out there and look at the car myself to see what the dealio is?
If the brakes were truly "gone", wouldnt there be some kind of sign of this? I dont want her to be unsafe, but it sure is a "coincidence" that this squeal suddenly appears after she gets her belts replaced.
HELP!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 8, 2010, 8:46 PM
Post #2 of 3
(2124 views)
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Re: Massive failure or Massive Ripoff
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Arggh! If brakes make noise what does the suggestion of replacing the entire brake system really mean? That isn't an approach I know of.
What may be is pads worn and a screech sensor letting you know pads are low and you would take it from there but by description the vacuum line to booster, check valve at booster or booster itself may be a problem?? Pinching the vacuum source off if that was making a noise would make it quit.
I'm a little confused as to what item(s) are really needed to fix or replace with the description. One way to test for a leak in power brake booster that may tell is to apply brake with car off. It should feel like power assist for at least one push just sitting there. Push pedal several times and it normally would use up the vacuum reserve. Hold pedal moderately and start engine and pedal will/should feel the added assist of engine vacuum once running again.
This needs proper diagnosing. Hose, check valve or the booster if it's that stuff at all.
I'd get a second opinion on just what it needs,
T
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Apr 9, 2010, 9:00 PM
Post #3 of 3
(2120 views)
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Re: Massive failure or Massive Ripoff
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Good evening
I'm sorry to hear of your health issues, hope you are doing better....
Maybe I can shed a little light that might help make things make a little more sense....
1st on your problem you are having.....If the car is sitting still, idling and the tech pinchs off the booster hose and the noise goes away, that does narrow it down to the booster area......Like Tom mentioned it could be a check valve or loose hose...
I'm going to assume the tech has already checked that and the booster is defective and needs to be replaced... The thing with brake work, when any shop does brake work it's automatically assumed that the complete system is going to be safe and road worthy once the repair is done. The shop is actually legally responsible for this. thus a complete brake check is required.... On the inspection there is 2 areas, required repairs and suggest repairs and they mean what they imply. If there are other areas that are unsafe, i.e a wh cyl leaking or pads going to metal, those HAVE to be fixed with the booster repair or the system isn't safe and the shop would be liable if there was a brk related accident.
Now if the pads are 3/32 or a little more, then it's suggested. It's not required to do because they are still within legal limits but at least you are aware that your brks are worn. This way in 6 months there is no surprise at having to replace pads or shoes after just spending 6 or 7 hundred dollars a few months prior on another part of the system.
You made a statement that wouldn't there be some kind of sign the brakes were failing? The answer is no.....your pads can be going to metal, calipers or hoses leaking and the pedal will feel fine until it hits metal or runs out of fluid and that would be the sign.......About the only sign you can check easily is the level of the master cyl. As the pads wear, the level will go down and that is a sign the brks are wearing and one reason why that is an area that quick lubes won't top off due to the fact the brks need to be inspected....
My advise is to 1st cool down a bit and then call the shop and find out what is required work and what is suggested work and then you make a decision on what you want to do, remembering any thing that is put off now, will probably need to be addressed in the near future... Getting a 2nd opinion is a good idea but keep in mind the quality of parts used, that will greatly effect an estimate.... A shop using dealer pads is going to be more expensive than a shop using a set of "Maystops". Then again it would be your decision on the quality of parts you want to use.
From what you've posted, they sound like they're on the up & up...... They had no problem showing her the problem or giving a written estimate.... I probably missed something but just doing a timing belt they would have had no reason to adjust anything on the brakes so this sounds like normal wear & tear........
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